The Sediment Bulb
It is difficult to find a sediment bulb that doesn’t have a broken valve arm. In my experience the best way to free up the valve is to tap it with a hammer from the spring side.
One way to determine if the valve taper has a good fit is to spray it with tool makers die and rotate it in the seat. The object is to show large patches of brass.
I lapped the taper on this bulb with Time-Saver compound. Spinning the valve with a drill makes for a quick job but I was concerned that I might break off the pin.
Smearing the taper with bar soap provides lubricant and makes for a sealer that gasoline doesn't easily wash away. A small flake of soap left in the fuel opening can end up lodged in the carburetor float valve causing the valve to leak so make sure the passages are free from soap.
I have used the brown gooey gasket sealer on the pipe thread with good success.
I haven't put gas in the tank so I can't say for sure if I have done a good job.
Here is a photo of the strainers. The flat one is Model T the tall one is Model A. A small dab of JB Weld holds them in place.
Planning on cleaning the tank?
Robb, I have had good luck in repairing the handle by drilling and using 1/8 brass rod dowels to hold the parts together, bevel and silver solder, polish out and most times you can't tell the part was ever broken. If the broken off haddle is missing, I fabricate a new one of brass stock. Have fun, KB
Robb
Wouldn’t you be better off without the Model A screen so the larger or for that matter all of the crud falls into the bulb
which can then be drained or disassembled for cleaning below the shut off without the need to drain the tank?
Regards
Art
Good comments everyone. Keith I like your idea of using silver solder to repair the arm.
The tank is a copper oval about 20 gallons. A bit large for oval track but fine for touring. Rust flaking shouldn't be a problem.
Looks like I have room for about an inch of crud before cleaning the tank. It will be interesting to see how the system works. If you see me parked along side the road with the sediment bulb in hand trying to pull off the top strainer you will know it didn't.
My quick and dirty way to fix mashed, broken or missing spring shafts. Carefully, center and drill and tap the brass tapered shut-off. I usually use a 10-32. Go deep enough, it won't want to back out. Install the machine screw with appropriate spring and washers.
When I go to remove one that is stuck, if it doesn't come out within three light taps, I add a little heat. Removed from the gasoline tank, of course.
Time is short. I am rooting for you!
Drive safe, and enjoy, W2
Thanks Wayne