My 26 Touring has a gas drip, once a minute, in the area of the tank fitting. lt seems to be coming from the joint of the overflow tube, where the tube passes thru the cast fitting. ls this a candidate for a slosh coating inside the tank or is replacement a better option? l do a lot of metal work and am a union Ironworker... theres no way l'm gonna lay a soldering iron or put a torch to this old gas bomb, so repairing it is of no interest to me. Also, l dont see tanks for my car listed in either Lang's or Snyder's. What gives?
Take it out, fill it with water and put 5 lbs of air on it. Or just air and soap at the joints. I think that whole fiting was brazed in. Are you sure its not from rubbing up inside the cowl? Ours was rusted out on the top corner by the windshield stanchion.
Wash it out with Dawn dish soap, and fill it with water for the repair. Personally, I would do a hot repair. If it is on top, consider sweating a patch over the whole area. Old tin is a chore to solder!
If it is the overflow tube, you can fit a smaller tube inside the original and use JB weld for a seal around the outside. CLEAN WELL!
Is it leaking at the brazed fitting, or maybe the threads inside the fitting need having a tap run to run thru cleaning out old " muck -em puck " sealant ?
This is where the sediment bulb screws in to tank fitting > ??? Right ??
I had the problem of old sealant not letting the sediment bulb screw in to seat.
It's a 1/2" pipe thread tap...... the same as the spark plug holes on the cylinder head.
Call me, I'm home under the weather...... & under the blankets, still able to type.
Gas will travel a bit before it drips..... problem may not be be where you think.
Had me baffled for a while, thought the fitting was cracked from sediment bowl being forcefully turned to seat without leak.
Hi, Dave. Nobody is reproducing the gas tanks that fit under the cowl. I did see a nos one for $100 that only had a little surface rust. Unfortunately, my cash on hand at the time was not enough to cover it. I have 26 and 27 touring cars that don't have a problem but who knows. My suggestion would be to remove the tank and inspect it for other potential problem areas and if it seems pretty sound then try to make a repair. Good luck. Bob
Dave, there may be more than one, i bought a cheap lid and drilled a hole in it and used a football needle and put pressure on it with water inside and it sprayed out in several places,the place you at looking at and several places along the seam, i then took a Dremel tool and ground out the rust and corrosion and filled the leaks with JB weld, i should have done both sides all the way around as leaks show up every other year, then slosh it with sealer making sure you let it run into the area that leaks.
No new tanks available changes my standing on this. Does anyone know whether the spill tube that projects out of the casting is a threaded nipple or is it one continuous tube all the way to the top of the tank? l have looked at the straps which hold the tank in place and saw the hook-top attachment. How difficult is it to wiggle that tank down out of there?
Disconnect the battery and pull the switch plate first! Remove the two nuts on the firewall and unhook the straps. The tank should come out pretty easily. You may hafta push down on the brake pedal to clear. ws
The spill tube is held in place with a screw at the bottom of the brass gas tank fitting
There is one at eBay that may be useable with a little cleaning: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/26-27-model-T-gas-tank-/360393733056
A restored one costs more: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fully-Restored-1925-26-27-Ford-Model-T-Gas-Tank-/ 280600658877
Great leads. Thanks. l blew a head gasket last night an hour away from home and had to trailer her in. So, the gas drip is taking a back seat for today. We leave next friday for the Mystic Seaport show.... Grrrrr
Here's an update: l got the tank out of the car and man, that is no small feat. They fit SO tight up in there and of course, the Bible makes it sound so easy. A quick air pressure and soap test revealed the leak and it's an easy fix. However, my car's mystery rattle has finally been located... one of the baffles inside of the tank is no longer attached and is laying in the tank and making racket. Getting that out of there would require cutting a big access hole in the tank. Hence, l just placed a bid on a used tank on Ebay.
Here is a view of the inside of the cowl tank.
Your culprit may be the overflow tube, on my tank I got a slow drip, it was the overflow tube. A pin hole was in the upper end, just shy of filling the tank to 7 gal would start that drip.
So the fix (after removing tank) was to cork the outlet end, and then pour tank sealant into the overflow tube, cork the top end, and then slosh it around inside the overflow tube. Several applications fixed that leak...no more drip!
That tube is exposed to air when the gas is gone, and can get rust pit holes like the tank can get, so you seal the tank insides and also sometimes have to seal the inside of the overflow tube.