Slow,but hey,at least I am working on it.May have to quit and do something else for a while but what the heck.Been on a roll the past week or 2.
Forgive the lousy picture.Rear axle assembly is about done except for getting the spring perch angle right and tightening them and installing brake shoe correctly on the right side,it seems out of round,then I have got to get the studs and bad hub delt with.Chassis is on the saw bucks for work.
I have strongly considering useing these lights that I modifyed to use a dual beam headlight bulb instead of the single beam driveing light bulb.it is a sealed beam unit behind the clear lens.But the glass lens needs polishing or something.looks bad.
I will make or modify the mounting brackets so I can use the 26-7 bracket there without removeing it or screwing it up.
Mack, I am currently modifying a drum headlight using a double filament bulb. You most likely have a chromed two prong receptacle in the lamp bucket. for a single filament bulb. They do not ground on the shell and one wire is hot and the other is ground. This is the way early cars were made. Or 1913 Cadillac was wired this way.
The receptacle is about an inch and a quarter long and has a tab with a tapped hole for a mounting screw. The screw goes in the rear and grabs a frame witch holds a fairly large coil spring. The receptacle goes in the front and captures the spring. The screw goes in from the rear and grabs the whole thing together so the spring can put pressure on the reflector and push it forward. There will be four rivets around the front edge of the bucket which grab a detent spring inside of the rim. Rotating the rim locks the assembly together. Use a piece of heavy cotton string as a gasket.
Now here come the details for adapting the socket for a two filament bulb: The socket or receptacle receives the bulb but will not receive the Bakelite double contact plug that connects to the rear of the lamp. The modern repop Bakelite part has the pins set too far from the business end and you will have to file the detent slot in the socket about 3/62" shorter than it is for the Bakelite socket to grab the socket. You can use a jewelers saw or a very small rat tail file to accomplish this. This is safer than attempting to shorten the plug.
I purchased my parts from Restoration Supply Co in Escondido, CA and they arrived the next day by snail mail, but they are only 100 miles away from me. Toll free phone is (800) 306-7008 web site www.RestorationStuff.com page 8 and 9.
You will need two ELE141 Plugs- Bakelite Double Contact and two ELE161 Bulb-12 volt 50-32 candle power DF/DC (L) You may be using 6 volts and if so that have that too but I don't know the number of it. When you talk to them they will know what you need. The Bakelite plugs are $14.50 each and the light bulbs are $5.50 each. It all fits in $5.00 Postal Shipping Box. The whole thing cost me $49.16 and it works with minor adjustment which is usual.
If you need domed or curved glass lamp lenses you can get them at a clock shop.
The picture dropped off . . . Here it is again
Thanks Frank,I may use your ideas if I dont go with the chrome lights pictured.they have sealed beams inside behind the glass lens that needs polishing.
OK folkes,I did it.I reversed the front spring.
I looked at this link,
I marked my spring every 3 inchs in red,green at the 1.5 marks.
I then sent it thru the press about 8 times total.I think I coulda done it quicker but I didnt apply enough pressure to really bend it right the first go around.
Anyhow.I put a red out line on the work table,then started pushing the spring on the press.i did have a problem with a couple spots I had to redo .I think a spring shop could do this easyer because their press would have a gauge on it,they could apply Equal pressure each time they moved the spring.
But here is the finished spring on the last photo beside the shortened second spring coated with EZ glide.Please dont laugh at my press.It dont stay in the shop,it stays in a shed and I set it in the shop with the forks on the tractor when i need it then put it back.Shop is getting full,my t project,my 74 lincoln that shoulda been out of there but the mans belt sander broke after we got the manifold about half surfaced,so I am stuck waiting on him to get a belt.
Custormers lawnmower is going to get gone tommorow I hope!.Tired of stumbling over it.
Nicely done Mack. Looks terrific to me.
Good job, Mack.
Thanks folkes!I have kinda been Skeered to try this.I would suggjest not rebushing a spring till you finish this in case you screw it up,you aint out of 2 bushings.
You all show me pictures and such,and I hope you all dont think you are wasting your time.I study things a while before I actually do them.I am looking each picture up and down of z'd frames to make sure i understand it and so forth.I have also been working out the how I am going to do it stuff to.A freind mentioned cutting the top out of the crossmember and letting the spring come up where it needs to to level the frame,then retop the crossmember.That would probably work on the 25-back crossmember but I dont think it would on this 26. If I go that route I will just make longer ubolts to hold the spring in the crossmember instead of trying to move up it's bottom.Just inclose the open areas when the top is finished.About 4 inchs change best I can tell is needed.Maby 4.5.I will know more when I get everything put together temporaryly and can measure.
Lookin' good, Mack. Bending a main-spring in a press like that looks a lot better than how I did one a few years ago.
Just keep tinkerin' from day to day, and next thing you know, a couple month hard push will have you on the road.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Here is the front axle done except for drilling a couple cotter pin holes and cutting off bolts and final paint.
I still need to order repair parts for the Apco adjustable ends and clean them up.This a slow process for me.It dont look like I gained much but best I can measure,I lowered it 3.25 inchs.
what method would you all use to determine exactly how much you lowered it?It would be easyer for me to measure and do the frame work without haveing to assemble it all and hope I dont mess up anything trying to weld and such.
I cant seem to fiqure out a good fixed point to measure from.I measured on my TT and it just showed I had lowered it 2.25.But I lowered the perch the thickness of the axle,the reverese the spring,so I am thinking it should the thickness of the axle,and the thickness of the spring eye.
But I aint positive,and I want to make sure when I make the cut,that I get the z right the first time.
Can i ask a question or 2 Mack?
its been a while since ive been here - but from memory, when you use a 'Laurel' style of lowering system (which this sort of is) you need to extend the wishbone (or shorten it) or something. Others may know this point off the top of their heads, i dont remember all the issues. Suffice to say that i dont recall it being as simple as just a bracket swap to lower the front. I do stand to be corrected and, as i said, just going from memory here.
Secondly, what are those 2 front lowering brackets? Are they home made? Do you or anyone have the measurements for them - they look neat and simple. I like them.
But it is looking good Mack.
I made them.I can do some measurements if that will help.Half inch thick flat iron on the bottom,3/8ths thick angle for the top and back of it.I had a certified welder use a 7018 rod with alot of amps to get a good weld on the bottom of it.I used my wire feed to put the angled brace on it.
I aint sure about the wishbone.The way this is setup,the wishbone is still in the same place,under the spring on the perch.
I will find out soon enough I reckon!:>)
Ok here is a prop up of the parts.Chassis is level side to side and front to back.
Bumping this as I think someone ask about my project.
Hopefully getting back to it again for a while.