Rebuilding coilbox on 26/26 with FP waterproof "wood". I am doing it now because I will have it off while I ream and replace the valves. I wondered if anyone has done the coilbox rebuild without removing the box from the cylinder head?

Only couple of bolts hold it on the engine.

Much much easier to remove and do the work on the bench...soldering, pop rivets, fitting, etc.

I completely agree Dan. If you take the bolts out, remove the box, then replace the bolts and tighten them down, is there risk of warping or water seepage past gasket, or other issues with leaving the head on? Just wondering.

No worries

Did the FP thing to Dixie.

Leave the cyl head on of course, those two cyl head bolts removed won't hurt a thing. I snug them all on install for the head, then remove the ones for the '26-'27 coil box, mount the box, and then torque.

Pulled off the coil box, the head bolts aren't an issue. The water outlet gave a tiny bit of a seep, but fast placed the bolts and all was good, and when done, all is dry and fine, didn't have to add new gasket at the water outlet.





Now your FunProjects kit won't have the same look as my '26-'27 box...that brown plastic is unique...I got a first prototype kit from John to test it out! Works the same as the now gray plastic, but the prototype looks like wood

Looks like you used new nuts and bolts. Did you use the old contact springs and clean them up? Did you solder them to the bots?

Yes, use the old contacts and buff them clean before soldering them to the NEW bolt heads. I would think it almost impossible to do the job correctly in the car, especially setting the rivets for the bottom contact strip.

Like Shell Busey says "why go for good when there's better, and why settle for better when there's the best" .... or something like that !!

Regards all,
Garnet

Erich,

I'm confused. If you are reaming and replacing valves you would have to have the head off anyway, and would, therefore, be replacing the head gasket also.

Erich
Reform the timer wire loom wires as far as possible away from the high tension spark plug wires on the back of the coilbox..
Ron the Coilman

Erich, if you or anyone doing the box without removing the head, is unsure about removing the 2 bolts that hold the box on because of fear of water seepage, just drain the water or whatever coolant you use and do the job then replace the coolant after replacing the bolts and box. This is done on Model A's all the time when removing the distributor and the clamp nut is removed. I don't suggest leaving the coolant in the block while any of the head bolts are loose because it will seep into the cylinder and the oil pan.

I guess I wasn't as clear as I thought. I am taking the head off. I was just thinking (I know), I wonder if that job has ever been done without taking the box off? If so, what issues would a guy run into.

I would never do it. Only one of those silly thoughts that goes through a guys mind once in a while.

Ron, do you have a photo showing the wire position you are describing?

Erich

Oh..understand now, you enjoy contortions and want to do a handstand while fixing T parts ! Just joking.... but really, just remove that coil box. Take the whole thing to the work bench.

To try to remove the base wood panel, and side wood panel you have to drill out the rivets in the thin metal support bar, to remove the front panel, drilling over your T engine, dropping things. Then when you got the assembly ready to replace in the box, trying to pop rivet that thin support bar into plastic panel without any bench to support the riveting,...just would make a bungle of a job.

Would make a fun hour of rebuilding a coil box with the Fun Projects kit a not fun event

Not silly at all Erich.
A long time ago I read if you want a job done quickly find a lazy mechanic.......he'll figure out the easiest way to do the job!
I know I sure scratched MY head enough times figuring out easier ways to do things.......

Craig

I always look for lazy people when needed something done.
I just add that they also have to posess pride in doing everything right.
They are the ones that endever to find the easiest way to do the job corectly.

Erich

to your original question: "Yes"

Erich
The timer wires at the back of the coilbox are intermittently grounded and need to be kept as far as possible away from the high tension leads to the spark plugs. Here is a photo of how I routed mine.

Ron the Coilman

P.S. My FunProjects coilbox kit is on the bench waiting to be installed. Too may projects!

Ron the Coilman

Looks good Ron. Thanks for the picture as well.

Scott, what are you telling us? Have you done that?