Back in 2005 when I first got my T we found the reason the front end of the car was sagging was that several of the front spring leaves had been removed. Even worse, we found the threaded portion of the spring perch was so long that it could not be tightened and the whole front spring was LOOSE!!!
We bought a new spring and still could not get the nuts tight on it. One of my T cronies looked it over and said the perch itself was wrong, it was for the larger spring of a TT truck. Well we got it tight with some big thick washers and added the perch to the list of things to be corrected sometime in the future.
The motor is out now and it is easy to get at this and switch it out. Here is what we have now:
Is this truly the wrong part?
This perch was given to me by another pal:
Is this one suitable for my low steel '23 Runabout? Which way is the front? This perch has a little cast dingus that I do not understand the purpose of. Do I have the retaining plate on upside down? It seems to be the opposite way from the one on the car now which could well be on wrong also.
This is the sort of info I would love to see in a restoration guide. Something that would contain some of this basic information.
Paul, It will work.The cast dingus is in reality a gnorp that was added in 26 to use as a screw boss to stop the apron from rattling.
Is this one suitable for my low steel '23 Runabout? Yes
Which way is the front? The gnorp goes forward
Do I have the retaining plate on upside down? No
The motor mount which you have received is the style introduced with the 1926 models. The small protrusion you mention faced the front and has a threaded hole to receice a screw inserted through the radiator apron to secure the apron and eliminate that rattle.
It will fit your car. Just place it "backwards" so that the screw retainer is not seen, then folks won't be telling you that you have the wrong one on your car. Good luck with your project. Bill
Thanks Tom, that is what I needed to know. If I can find one without the gnorp in the next coupla weeks I'll use that, if not, this one goes on later bit or not. The car is a bitsa, but I'm trying to straighten it out as I go.
Bill, that's a great idea. Its nice to know that it will fit backwards and I like the idea as it allows this one to be used.
You brought up an interesting issue of terminology.
In Model T terminology a front spring perch looks like:
In Model T terminology a front motor mount looks like:
And in more modern terminology a spring perch is the part between an axle and a leaf spring and looks like:
If I was to name these things, I would say that what is called a model T spring perch, I would call a spring hanger.
Might just be the way the photo was taken, but it looks like the plate on the bottom is tight against the bottom of the front cross member. If it is, that is wrong. It needs to be tight against the spring and not hitting the bottom of the cross member. I just looked at my car and about half the thickness of the bottom spring leaf extends beyond the bottom of the frame. Make sure you have the spring pad which goes between the spring and the frame.
I'm glad someone corrected you on what a spring perch looks like! Yes, a truck mount would be too long, and so would the '26 you have. Remember, a '26 has one additional leaf in the spring. '23s have 7 leafs, and '26s have 8, and some '25s also have 8. You must also use a spring pad on top of the spring. I prefer leather, but in '23, Ford was using top material, with two leather pads riveted to each end.
Thanks again guys, I'll check on the fit of the spring and make sure we have a pad in there. I'm pretty sure we did get one at the same time the spring was installed but it was more than six years ago & memory was never my best point.
If the late model "Motor Mount" is still going to be too long, perhaps I had better see if I can find the correct one. Anyone out there want to swap an early one for my later one?
Check he classified, I have one on there that is correct for passenger cars.
Thanks Dave, email sent! You certainly have a lot of parts listed for sale, I may not have found the one you intended. Happily, the one I need ought to be the one most commonly found.
I have the exact same (incorrect for my 21) motor mount and when I tried to mount it backwards so nobody would notice, that part that sticks up wouldn't let the front of the engine down all the way. Might check it out with a spare crankcase before trying to lower the whole engine down.
Just thought of this, but you could try bolting it to the crankcase backwards with it off the car, but as someone mentioned above, the threaded sections are way too long.You can cut them off dress them up and re-drill the cotter pin holes, grind that part that sticks up off and put that ugly part to the back. A lot of work though.