OK , thats got to the bottom of the problem, how do l repair/re bush the brake pedal bushing/hole in a 1913 aluminum trans cover, brass bush insertion ??
Was the oil line blocked up?
With the 1 rod burning out that way I thought it might be.
If you were a little closer David you would be welcome to send it along for a rebore custom bush fix on this 14,700 lb Jig Bore.
John, thank you for the offer, l'm not that far from you !!! , Lawrence, yep, blocked tube, brake band fibers all stem from a band and pedal misalignment, can see the elongation in the pedal opening through the side of the trans cover, new brass bush needed, do the parts suppliers sell these or is this something l'm going to need to mill ???
It seems this may have happened just over a year ago !!
I'm running wood bands in the '27 and like them.
No lint and last a long time.
Someone else will have to answer about the bushing.
I think you may have to make it.
You can buy a thin walled bronze bush at any bearing supplier to do the job. They are 5/8" internal diameter, 11/16" external and 1 1/2" long.
I use an adjustable reamer and pilot to size the shaft hole in the alloy trans cover.
I also fit an oil seal on the outer side. The details of these are on the thread "need seals" which I posted recently.
I made a hand driven tool to cut the seats for the seals. It is nothing more than a long 5/8" bolt fitted with a fly cutter of tool steel.
The bolt head is drilled and threaded to take a 1/4" grub screw. Just under the head of the bolt the shaft is drilled and filed into a square hole to accept the tool steel cutter, which is held in place by the grub screw. The diameter of the cut is governed by the setting of the fly cutter, and the tool is driven by a speed brace and the appropriate socket.
Occasionally, the alloy covers are not well centred before the shaft holes were drilled, and there may not be enough material around the shaft hole to be able to cut the oil seal land.
When I do the clutch fork shaft holes I leave the bush protruding outside the cover at the open end an close the bush with a 5/8" cup type welch plug to stop the oil getting out of what is usually an open hole.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under
G'day Allan, it certainly looks as though the original hole, is well off center, but more so now, l pulled the pedal out yesterday and can clearly see that the whole assly needs to go ( say 1/8" ) forward from its current location, pushing the band forward shows that would center the band well over the drum, but also closing up the ears would probably help too, they're a lottle ( little/lot )on the loose side on the shaft.
Thats the next new job.....seem to be getting a few of those of late !!!!
If you want to know the "cheap and dirty" fix for the off-center hole. I have measured the amount it needs to drift, marked it (inside and out), then carefully (with lots of checking by re-measuring) filed the hole out with a series of rat-tail files. Then finish the hole with a reamer or carefully kept straight drill bit. Finish the hole with a proper bushing.
The whole purpose of the "measure and file" is to re-drift the hole back to where it belongs. Wear on pedals and shafts (or clutch shafts etc) is usually one sided just like the front crank hole. If you use a reamer or drill before re-drifting the hole, it will finish a bit more than halfway off (between the original hole and the wear). This process simply saves the cost of an expensive milling machine job to put the hole into the proper place. Do this poorly, and the cost of a future "proper" repair goes way up. Do it well, and that future repair will never be needed (unless you do an awful LOT of driving).
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2