I think it's about time to start working on the T again this year. I have the coil box all disassembled so I could re-wood it and put new coils in. I had purchased wood a few years ago and varnished it, and although there were some things about the wood I didn't like up on beginning this project, I already purchased it.
I have the pieces varnished, and have decided to reuse my bottom piece of wood so I won't have to fool with the wires and contacts. My main questiosn are:
1) How has anyone gotten the contact screws to go through the back wood properly?
2) which way do the wires go in the switch.
I have heard alot of wonderful things about the fun projects weatherproof kit, but at this point I am not ready for it. Maybe once the car is running and I have gotten to enjoy it I will upgrade, but for now the wood is fine.
For a little background, to keep the box looking appropriate in my car, I have only cleaned the rust and painted inside the box, leaving the outside looking less than perfect.
Thank you for your help, and I am excited to get this together. After this, my next step will be to start on the firewall which I finally bought at Hershey.
Hope everyone had a nice Thanksgiving!
Richard, what year is htis one?
THIS, not htis. Sorry
It's a 1915.
Go to Fun Projects web site at www.funprojects.com and download the instruction sheet for the coil box kit for a 1915 since we put the instruction sheet up on our site and it has a diagram that should show you how things go and you can use the instruction sheet when installing new wood or our kit.
Here is another diagram of the Ford coil box wood and contacts.
I can't top the above two sources. That should get you far. Let us know how it turns out Richard.
John, pardon my ignorance
To find an instruction sheet, select the product from the following list:
10505R 10505R-12V 10505R-8V 10505R-FT 10505R-FT8V 10505R-N12V 10505R-V8 2587 2587-ADJ 2587E1 2587E1-ADJ 3260E1 3260E2 3260E3 3630/3633E1 3630/3633E2 3630/3633E3 3638E1 3638E10 3638E2 3638E3 3638E4 3638E5 3638E6 3638E7 3638E8 3638E9 3655/56 3655/56E3 3655/56E4 3965 4816/4817 4816/4817E1 4816/4817E2 5000/5001RK 5001BRK 5007KW-IFAD Clock 5055R 5055R-12V 5055R-8V 6432 6432-12V 6432E2 6432E2-12V AFK-1 BLS-1 CT-1 CT-2 HSBCK1 MT-1 S10505R S10505R-12V S10505R-8V S10505R-FT S10505R-N12V S10505R-V8 S10505R-V812 S10505R-V8N12 S5016 S5016L S5055R S5055R-12V S5055R-8V T12CK1 TFK-1
Or choose a technical document from the following list. Technical documents are anything from certificates of authenticity (for our products) to rare historical manuals.
Choose Document produces this list
3260 Magneto Post/ Certificate of Authenticity Hand Cranked Coil Tester Operator's Manual 1913-1914 Dash Moulding Model T Ignition System - by Patterson & Coniff More on Model T Spark Timing - by Ron Patterson Wheel Assembly Spoke Press Plans Pre 1912 Choke Rod and Radiator Choke Rod Hole Third Floorboard LHC Model T Frame Dimensional Drawing The Model T Ignition Coil - Part 1 - by Boggess & Patterson The Model T Ignition Coil - Part 2 - by Boggess & Patterson The Model T Ignition Coil - Part 3 - by Boggess & Patterson Wheel Hub Drill Jig - by Jeff Humble T 1349 Hub Cap Wrench History Excessive Crankshaft Endplay Repair - by Ken Foster Accurate Spark Timing by Murray Fahnestock Ruckstell Axle Sales Brochure Model T Motor Stand - by Fun Projects, Inc. "Butter Tub" Shop Wall Rack Making a Meter for the HCCT - by Bob Cascisa
But then nothing else.
There is nothing else to click.
How does the down load work?
Go to the site, click on year for 1915 products, then click on 5000/5000 something for the "coil box kit", go to that page, look on the lower right and a hyperlink is there "Installation Instructions"....whish all vendors would have so much great install instructions....I need'em all the time
Thank you for the information and photos, I am sill curious about one thing. How do I get the square cross section of part 667 to pass through the round hole in the wood?
The old square peg in the round hole problem....
It sounds like you're describing a carriage bolt. The square under the head mashes its way into the hole when you tighten the nut.
There are two types of T-667 bolts available from Model T parts suppliers. The reproduction bolts made by Randall Anderson are superior, although somewhat more expensive. They have the correct square size under the head and are very easy to install per the FP instructions and are flash copper plated.
The other type have a larger square size under the head and very difficult to imbed per instructions and are made of brass.
Ron the Coilman
Thank you everyone! I was having trouble finding the instructions, and now see what to do. I'm hoping to use my original T-667 bolts. Hopefully I can post pictures of a completed coil box tonight!