My first rear axle rebuild has been gong pretty much according to the instructions, but I didn't see anybody mention one of the ring gear bolts interfering with the pinion gear. I guess it will be OK to grind a little off the end of the bolt.
Ideally, that doesn't happen. There was a run of ring gears made where the bolt holes don't align with the teeth, causing the problem you see. You have the correct solution in mind.
Steve I wonder if there are any more bolts that protrude over the ring gear. Just curious but are all the bolts the same length? Maybe a stretched bolt?
Take one out at another location of the ring gear and check the length after installing in that same location or compare with some of the other bolts.
Probably not a big deal but if all else looks Ok just grind it a little for clearence.
Just some ideas.
It's always a problem with a 39 tooth pinion. I've used washers, as it's easier than grinding bolts.
A 39 tooth pinion is one heck of a large pinion ha ha.
Yeah but you should see the ring gear!
Reminds me of a joke I can't tell here.
Did you check to see if the pinion stuck too far into the rear axle? I patterned the gears using Prussian Blue to see where they were hitting and adjusted the thickness of the gasket at the driveshaft spool accordingly.
You don't mention what gears you are using in your re-build. If they are standard gears I would be looking for a better mesh. As suggested, the pinion seems too far into the diff housing. If you have to withdraw it some, then the ring gear may need shifting closer to get the correct mesh again. That means shuffling thrust plates, fitting shims etc.
Allan from down under
The first rear I rebuilt, I had the same problem. I found I had the pinion too far into the ring gear and had to shim it forward some. It will fit without grinding the bolts. It just takes some fitting.
Steve, what shape is the bushing in at the U-joint end? If it is to far gone, may need a new one to get a better pinion gear position. If the circumference of that bushing is still O.K. but the thrust surface is to thin, some folks have used washer shims in that location. Once the drive shaft is well captured between the pinion gear and the U-joint flange, then you can use spacer gaskets at the spool end if pinion position still needs adjustment in relation to the ring gear.
The front bushing is new but irrelevant at this point, as the tube isn't on yet. I'm using John Regan's pinion bearing conversion kit. The gear was too far in, so I installed a thicker shim. The ring gear movement is now the recommended .010" to .012", so I think I'm good to go.