Just finished pressing in my Stutzman spokes
The whole project went well, thanks to the Stutzman spokes which I picked up from Ohio and of course, the Regan wheel press.
One problem I experienced during the pressing process, was that I had great difficulty in assembling my teepee. In my case, I found it the hardest part of the operation and very frustrating. I see from searching previous threads, that others have had similar problems and individual solutions vary.
I decided to use a hub plate as a platform for my teepee and rested it at the appropriate height, on blocks of wood. Once the teepee was happily formed on the top of the hub plate, I inserted the hub itself through the spokes and the hub plate underneath, then removed the blocks and lowered the hub plate to the bottom of the press.
I now have four excellent spoked wheels.
Thank you Melvin and John
Very nice. Where can I get a press?
You have to make the press. Directions are on the MTFCI website.
Those are gorgeous wheels. Jack did a super job.
Some people use a styrofoam cup under the spokes.
It can be crushed after it has held the spokes in position.
Thank you Dave.
Paul, may I ask what car you plan on using the press on?
Beautiful job Jack! Dave
Your finished wheel looks really nice. Usually the problem with the teepee falling apart is that the hub is not TIGHT. It is supposed to be held rather tightly between lower and upper threaded pieces so that the hub is not free to wobble or rotate. This requires you to find the correct height for your particular press so that you can always start with the hub suspended at that exact height but tight. Leaving it loose and trying to adjust its height while you also build the teepee will not work very well since if the hub it too high or if it can spin then the teepee will collapse. Keep the hub tight until you have all your spokes in place and only then do you begin to lower the bottom nut and tighten the top. The felloe can move around as you fit your spokes in and that is OK since it will eventually end up cenetered once you have all spokes in. Once pressure is firmly established you can run the bottom nut all the way down out of the way and just spin the top nut down.
I am about to do the same thing, I am terrible at working with wood and I wonderd is it tricky drilling the holes for the bolts in the right place. Just thought of that and I dont want to mess up.By the way, nice wheels Jack.
Once it is pressed together, how do you drill the holes and make sure the holes are strait? Did Stutzman put the finish on the spokes?
As you can see above, the hub is in the wheel so you know where you have to drill the bolt holes. Just do your best to keep the drill vertical and you should be OK. Your bolt holes may be a bit off, so you just use a rubber mallet to drive the bolts through. Imagine if it was 60 years ago and you had to drill them by hand.
Tom and Chester,
Here are a couple of previous threads on the subject of drilling the hub bolt holes. You might get some help from them.
It isn't particularly difficult, if you have a good eye and possibly a helper to watch, as the drill sinks in. Make sure that you initially position the hub on the spoke joins, though.
There are other suggestions from those more experienced in these things - a keyword search often uncovers them.
The Stutzman spokes were bare when I collected them - I used multiple coats of marine spar varnish to give them (hopefully) long lasting protection.
Does one just buy spokes and then put them in this way, or do they have to be "fitted" somehow? I'm talking about demountable wheels only (I'm scared to even try that; couldn't fathom doing a wood fellow wheel!).
Nice photos and great job!
Beautiful wheels Jack. Makes me want to try for myself. I notice they are the loose lug type common to our Canadian sourced cars. Did you have to send Stutzmans a pattern to get the length right? From the photos I can't see if the tapered end has the taper front to rear so that you have to alternate the spokes when assembling them.
Allan from down under too.
Craig and Allan,
I called Melvin Stutzman while I was in the US and asked him to produce 50 spokes to fit Kelsey rims. He knew exactly what I was talking about, though I think you would need to be specific about the type of rim you have as there can be a small difference in diameter, ie Kelsey vis a vis Hayes.
The quality was superb and only required the fabrication of a Regan wheel press, to complete the job. Melvin would have fitted the spokes to the wheel rim as well, but I had limited space in my luggage for the finished article and decided I could do the second part of the job. No problems with Customs on arrival back in Oz either - they didn't even look at the spokes after I'd shown them the receipt
Allan - I know what you're talking about with the longitudinal taper. The Stutzman spokes don't have it - they're a straight edge. But if my reading of the prior debate on this forum is correct, this is a subsequent refinement and was not the usual Ford practice - at least in the US. I have seen many of the type you're describing, here in West Oz - it seems they are quite common (in fact almost universal) in the local reproduction spokes, if you can obtain them locally. I imagine they would be easier to press in to the hub, but I found the straight edge type, quite simple as well.
Jack, could you expand on the "second part" of the job (fitting to the wheel rim)? Also, is there any fitting to the hub?
The "second part" was simply the fitting of the spokes to the hub and fellies (rims). The photos above show that in part, but there is a video on this forum which you may have seen, that probably shows it with more background and in more detail;
The spokes come ready to fit to both fellie and hub - is that what you're asking ?
Although there is some variation (1/32" ?) in the different makes of metal fellies, the hubs that we deal with, were all a standard size. The Stutzman spokes conform to the hub shape without any further trialling or refinement.
Very cool, thanks very much - I will git her done :-)
I made my teepee using a styrafome cup. On top of the spokes was a 3/4 plywood plate which held my 7 ton jack. I then jacked up the rear end of my excursion getting both rear wheels airbore before all collapsed as it should. It took seceral tries before the spokes all went down in unison. I then pressed in the hub and back plate. Then I drilled the holes after rotating the hub so the holes would split the rins. The hub's/spokes are tight, tight. Now this is the way I did it but there are other was as well.
Thanks Jack, that helped. Also thanks for the video - I saved it in my Model T folder for use later.
Jack, nice wheels. Do you have photos of the rims you could post. There has been much discussion about rims that only confuses me more. I have the same wheels as you and I think I have three different types of rims mounted.
If you have them cleaned up and a shot of "edge" the little edge that mounts to the wheel that would be a great help.thanks