Repairing a crack in the block in the water jacket area.

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2011: Repairing a crack in the block in the water jacket area.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary Hagen on Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 01:21 pm:

Water seeps out of the block in the water jacket area. Block is still in the car. What different methods are there for fixing it? I bet Dan Treace comes up with the quickest answer with a link!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 01:30 pm:

Perhaps you haven't read the forum lately? The subject has recently been beaten to death in this thread; http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/249588.html
My conclusion: Soldering easier and much cheaper than the more professional alternatives, but still more reliable than the shade tree JB weld option.
(Still many have had luck for years with simple solutions though)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gene Carrothers Huntington Beach on Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 02:04 pm:

Roger, Give Gary a Break.. Obiviously he didn't see my earlier post and needs this info for a Holiday run. Enjoy Season Greetings

Check out the post about my success with using The Right Stuff by Permatex very similar to RTV then applying a piece of shim stock over the crack. Paint to match.

My experience with using JB Weld is that with the heating and cooling of the engine and exposure to the coolant after a time leak will reappear.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gene Carrothers Huntington Beach on Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 02:09 pm:

Roger, Give Gary a Break.. Obiviously he didn't see my earlier post and needs this info for a Holiday run. He also said the engine is IN The Car.... Enjoy Season Greetings

Check out the post a couple of weeks ago about my success with using The Right Stuff by Permatex very similar to RTV then applying a piece of shim stock over the crack. Paint to match.

My experience with using JB Weld is that with the heating and cooling of the engine and exposure to the coolant after a time leak will reappear.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Schedler, Sacramento on Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 02:19 pm:

My knee jerk reaction to a leak like this is BARS LEAK or a similar product. I have leaks in one of my cars from using water in zero weather (and colder) when a kid in Wisconsin.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gene Carrothers Huntington Beach on Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 03:39 pm:

Hal, I've been told that modern stop leak products are only designed to work in pressure type systems and have always be reluctant to add a clogging element to mine unless it was an emergency.

I've always wondered about the black pepper mix such I'm such a pepper fan.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Clark - Glendale, WI on Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 04:33 pm:

I just used Moroso "Ceramic" seal on my 23 engine. Leak was above the valves and the block will now hold 30 psi of air for over 2 hours with no drips or loss of pressure.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Gould on Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 04:51 pm:

Bars Leaks works for Model T radiator cracks. I don't know why it wouldn't work for block cracks so long as they are small.
I've never had a clog problem with Bars Leaks, although I have had one using ceramic. In fact, when you drain the water you need to use another can or the leaks will start up again.
I would try Bars Leaks or equivalent, if that doesn't work then the Permatex.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bud Holzschuh - Panama City, FL on Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 05:13 pm:

Has anybody ever tried the old "break a dozen raw eggs in the radiator and drive it" trick (for block cracks).

Or is this something we need to submit to Mythbusters ???

schuh


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 05:35 pm:

Richard is right, Bars leak has been used as long as I remember, unless you really got a problem. It used to be sold in all John Deere stores for what ever, Dad used it for head gaskets, and cracks on every thing, and it doesn't seem to plug anything else that don't need it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les VonNordheim on Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 05:47 pm:

Cracks in the water jacket for our 13 were repaired with soft solder approx. 7 yrs. ago and are still holding. I have also used JB weld but it has not held up nearly as well compaired to solder. The local radiator shop did the solder repair for $20.00. They did not drill small holes at the ends of each crack prior to soldering and still no leaks.
I also have had badly cracked REO 1 & 2 cylinders welded with cast iron. Thats the best but very expensive and only a few welders are still doing it. Have also used high nickel alloy ark rod but that did not hold up. The weld is strong but the bond is poor where the two metals join. High nickel alloys expand at different rates compaired to cast iron. In addition to brazing, I have also used silver solder to repair a model T cast iron head and that worked.
I spent $1K to have one of my REO cylinders welded with cast iron plus machining.
I consider welding cast iron to be an art!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By joe bell on Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 07:39 pm:

Bud, Myth busters did that one and it worked, they took an ice pick all over this radiator, looked like a sprinkling can when done, fired the engine up till it warmed up then stopped leaking.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James "Mike" Rogers on Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 08:13 pm:

I always put a small bottle of bars leaks in all new engines just for good measure and add 3 oz of sodium silicate to make sure the head gasket seals. Never had a leak. maybe luck or maybe the sealers. Whatever, it works.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bud Holzschuh - Panama City, FL on Tuesday, December 20, 2011 - 08:47 pm:

Joe

I thought I've seen every Mythbusters episode but I missed that one !! Now I've got to look for it....

schuh


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