Tonight we used a T-specific adapter for an engine stand (they work great!) and got the engine up off the home made cradle on the floor. We turned it up so the trans was able to be looked at, and I was shocked at how loosey-goosey the triple gears are. The bushings are beyond worn!
So I told dad we might as well start with a transmission rebuild before we go any further, and we got the pin out of the back and the bolts out of the driven plate. That's where the disassembly stopped. Can't figure out how in the world the driven plate comes off - there is no visible seam inside, on top, or on the side of the brake drum. I compared this to a mid 20's trans that we have the driven plate off, and we just can't see how it's the same thing. There just doesn't seem to be a seam inside the outer edge where it would come apart from the drum and I'm 99% sure that is exactly where it comes apart. Are we missing it due to the burned oil, or is the improved transmission a little different? (Sure couldn't find it in the shop manual if it is.)
Assuming that is where it comes apart, what do I need to do so it will let go?
Try tapping on the tail shaft?
The driven plate is a close fit on the 26-7 brake drum. Carbon deposits on the inside of the drum will hold the plate in place. Tapping on the shaft may break it loose. Scraping some of the carbon off may also help.
I rapped on it pretty good with a short 2x4... When we quit I sprayed the top of the plate with PB Blaster so hopefully it will work on it overnight. Thanks for letting me know that at least we didn't overlook something.
A BRASS HAMMER is called for in the book quite a bit! Once it breaks loose it oughta lift right off. I encountered a loy of "varnish" from old oil which gave me a lot of trouble. Take some fine sandpaper and pre=clean what you can when pulling this stuff apart! ws
DO YERSELF A SUPER FAVOR! WHEN YOU GO TO LIFT THE TRANS WITH GEARS OFF THE FLYWHEEL, PUT 2 BOLTS THROUGHT THE DRIVEN SHAFT FLANGE INTO THE FLYWHEEL FROM THE BOTTOM!! THAT SHAFT WILL FALL OUT AND LAND ON THE FLOOR OR YER TOES!!
I could swear it is called the driving plate!
The book actually calls it the "Drive Plate" par.266 and the "driven gear" running the triple gears par.273
Dont ask me how I found out about the driven shaft exiting towards the toes! ws
I have a very special name for it at the moment which, out of respect for you all, I will not repeat.
You have the early style fillister head screws for your driving plate. The later ones with the raised hex head are easier to use. Hope you got it out ok.
Larry those weren't my photos - we have the later hex heads that appear to be loose when they're tight. Dad got the plate off yesterday while I was at work. Now we're "having fun" getting the clutch drum out - we bought a craftsman 2/3 jaw puller that is supposed to work. I wanted to find the Z tool so I had the set (I have the other puller), but haven't located a nice one for sale yet.
My clutch drum was an absolute bear to get out as previously posted. Tried everything under the Tuscan sun to pull it. Finally after breaking several other pullers, this is what I came up with. Dont hesitate to warm the parts up just to take the chill off. Also try to clean off the varnish on the parts before attempting the big pull. BTW, its upside down in the vise just to hold it for a good pic.
I was surprised that the drum hadnt busted; it was THAT tite! Mustve been made out of some good stuff! Wear safety glasses iffen it does break. ws
THANK YOU!! The clevis idea is brilliant. I read on an older thread about using a craftsman puller working ok and being $50 cheaper than the puller in the T catalogs - big mistake. It's jaws are worthless for grabbing. Only by seeing your photos were we able to get it to work. Of course dad thought we were both going to die as the drum exploded in a shower of flying metal fragments. You should have seen him nearly jump out of his skin when it let loose. He said "I knew it, the drum broke". I knew it finally let loose and we were in business. hehe
But does that mean it broke, or broke free??? ws
Bill, it broke free. Unbelievable that we can put that kind of pressure on those 2 small areas above the holes but it works.
One of the triple gear bushings simply fell out of the gear too, along with having WAY too much clearance for the pin!
EXCELLENT! Im so glad that worked for you! When mine finally let go it was with a bang! Had to be prepared either way with the ratchet to keep going; once you stop it can seize and then need to be destroyed for a finish removal.
Take some fine emery cloth and give the shaft an easy shoe shine. Put some oil on the shaft, then heat the drum so it sizzles when you spit on it, and no more! Saliva boils at 220F BWIW! Be prepared to run it home on the first try. I used a deep socket and a hammer. Check the shim clearance underneath it with feeler gages. Make sure the woodruff key is clean and seats on both pieces first!
That basket mustve been made outa Hanks chrome vanadium steel... stronger than HECK!!! ws