I HAVE A NOISE IN MY ENGINE I HAVE BEEN TOLD IT IS CAMSHAFT MOVING BACK AND FORTH. HOW CAN I FIX IT
A simple way (ideal for test purposes) would be to put some sort of "shoe" inside the timer that would force the camshaft to the rear. I have tried this in the past and it works. The trick is to make the shoe the correct size so that the timer contacts the timing cover and the camshaft at the same time. If this eliminates your knock, a more permanent fix would require removing the front timing cover and placing washers between the cam gear nut and the cover.
Install a thrust washer kit. What camshaft are you running and what year is your engine?
While you are at it, I suggest you check for cam bearing clearance as well. Simply get a lever and block of wood for a fulcrum and lever the end of the cam to see if you have any up and down movement. It is not unusual to find the bearing loose in the block. This can be corrected by installing a shim between the bearing and the cam tunnel. This will mean partial withdrawall of the cam and all that entails.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under
I have a noise and I'm pretty sure it's because I've got too much clearance between the bronze cam and the crank gear. I see one supplier has two oversized gears, one .003" and the other .005".
I'll pull the cover after the new year and find out.
Gene, When you installed your bronze camshaft gear did you also replace your cranksahft gear? If you replace both the crankshaft and camshaft gear you will not need an oversized gear. It is better to replace both anyway as running a worn gear with a new one will quickly wear out the new gear and your noise will return. The only problem is to remove the crackshaft gear the engine should be pulled so the crankcase can be removed. The Ford manual suggests simply unbolting the motor block from the crankcase, lifting the motor, and then replacing the gear, and finally lowering the motor and bolting it back down. I would never even consider doing this as this will very likely cause the fourth main to be misaligned and can lead to crankshaft failure. To prevent future issues the motor should be pulled and both gears repalced. If you are running a generator make sure to replace the generator pinion as well. If you later determine that the source of your noise is something else ignore this post.
Thanks for the advice Stephen,
My problem I'm sure resulted from a broken crankshaft, which cracked the side at the rear main bearing boss, then a frunace braze job which tweeked every machined surface including the two bottom rails, which we machined a Compromising amount to straighten the two rails without totally messing up the 4th main. Then betting the babbitters didn't allow for or notice a variance so the centers got off. I had a near new cam gear and crank gear so neither should have been worn at the time. You are right though the more I run it the more bothersome the noise is. One more run on the HME and I'll fix it.
Gene, do you plan on finding a better engine block?
This is the original '12 block and is working OK now. I'm plannning to get an oversized cam gear to correct my noise issue.
I can understand your efforts to save an original 12 engine block. I know of 3 others which had cracks/breaks at the rear bearing web. Two had broken the web out of the block and the crankshaft had broken. The third had long cracks either side of the land which the rear main bearing nuts are tightened down on. This block was bare when I bought it so I have no idea of the status of the crankshaft.
Is there a possibility that things happened in the reverse order you stated. On what I have seen on these early blocks [and on one 24 block] I believe the webs cracked first and this allowed flex in the crankshaft and the subsequent breakage of the block. The 24 block had clearly been working along the crack lines, before finally letting go, taking the crank with it. I suspect two of the early blocks went the same way.
Your thoughts please. That sharp machined ledge at the back of the T block is a sure stress riser.
Allan from down under
Gene, If your web is cracked I would suggest finding a better block. That web can let go at any time and destroy your transmission, magneto, crankshaft, etc.
Allan.. Good thought and I have not considered but I do know my crank Broke.. Looking at the crank I was pretty sure as it made one last rev it made contact with the front part or vise versa which caused the one side to give way.
I have since had the block repaired and back on the road with it again.
If I were to do it over again I would with out question opt for a different pre 16 block which look very close.
I'm just hoping an oversize cam gear will quite my knocking noise
Have a Happy New Year