Can this be easily done on a Bridgeport? With a normal boring bar? If you've done a T block at home on your mill, please show me pics of your setup and share your tips. We'd love to do most/all of the work on this project ourselves.
I'm seeing .382-.384 at the top of the cylinder bores so I'm assuming we need to go .020 over. Or would you guys hone it a little and simply install new rings?
BP typical quill travel 5" - seems the bores are longer than 5". I will be doing mine in this 9" quill travel jig bore.
How worn are the ways in your table? You will have an overhung load when you bore the end cylinders. If you have appreciable slop in the table your bores might not be perpendicular to the top of the block. You might want to tighten the gibs in your table before you start.
At the price of getting a shop to bore it you'd probably make about a buck and a half an hour for your time.
Would be fun, though.
I've been thinking about boring a block in my lathe, but dunno if I'll try.
I have more time than money.
Craig, I have a Van Norman 777 4 speed boring bar for sale. At $20 a hole you'd only have to bore about 15 or 20 blocks to pay for it and everything after that would be gravy. =)
Seriously, the reason I have my own boring bar, a Van Norman 900S, is that I can make decisions as I go rather than having to have the machine shop call me, me go look, etc. I also like to do all my own work, which is why I have boring bars, valve machine, K R Wilson line bore, etc. I probably don't do the supposedly perfect job the "Professional" shops do but I think I easily do as good of work as any Ford shop in the 20's 30's 40's did on T engines. I've seen some so called "Professional" engines that weren't done as well as I can do them and have seen some that were better.
Back to the shop.
Stan - Another example of what you're talking about is crankshaft grinding. From what I understand, even if a shop knows how to grind a Model T crankshaft and understands the importance of the proper radius, they sometimes won't do it because in order to get the proper radius, they have to modify the shape of their grinding wheels accordingly, and they hate to do that, and won't do that if you let them get away with it!
Craig: I have a engine boring stand and I still take mine to a engine shop. The can do it quicker and cheaper than I can. Dan
All depends on what you like to do. I can buy a CD of somebody else playing music who is a lot better than I am instead of loading up my guitar, my fiddle, my amp and driving 250 miles to play music for a couple hours once a month. Lots easier and cheaper to just stay home and listen to the pros do it but it ain't near as much fun.
You might be able to rent a boring bar.
Now just considering having a local guy I know bore it, but then dad and I will do everything else. I'd enjoy it even more knowing we poured the babbitt and fit everything ourselves. Sounds fun so I'm considering it.
I'm with Dan.
Just because I had a machine shop and COULD do things didn't mean we SHOULD.
What might take a day and half in your shop can be done in a proper engine shop in about 2 hours and done right for not a lot of money.
Why not give it a shot? It won't take too long to get it set up and you will know pretty quick if its going to work and you want to proceed.