Paint on Old T Sheet Metal ???

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2011: Paint on Old T Sheet Metal ???
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Thomas Travis on Monday, December 26, 2011 - 04:46 pm:

G’ day to all. Has anyone used any of this “rust preservative” paint on any old rusty Model T sheet metal. What I have read about it is that the metal can be coated with this paint and then “regular paint applied over it. I have some sheet metal that I would prefer not to sand / media blast because of it’s condition. Let me know the brand name that you used. Thanks for the help, Thomas T


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donald Hagstrom on Monday, December 26, 2011 - 05:11 pm:

Mr. Travis, I've used both the Permatex brand # 765-1232 and also the 3-M brand product and have been quite satisfied with both.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donald Hagstrom on Monday, December 26, 2011 - 05:54 pm:

I might add that the Permatex product goes on with a bit of a purple color and as it cures and the chemical reaction occurs with the oxidized metal it turns black. The 3-M product really does not change colors, just makes for a shinier surface.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Thomas Travis on Monday, December 26, 2011 - 06:20 pm:

Hey Dondald, thanks for this info. After the Permatex dried did you do the normal paint process...primer, sand, primer, sand again, Evercoat if needed and the the final paints? If so, does the final finish look any different form any meatl that was not treated with the Permatex? I appreciate this help, Thomas T


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Thomas Travis on Monday, December 26, 2011 - 06:23 pm:

Donanld, I forgot to ask how did you apply the Permatex?? brush or spray, if sprayed did you thin it?
Again many thanks, Thomas T


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Donald Hagstrom on Monday, December 26, 2011 - 09:45 pm:

I use the 3-M on small parts because it is available in a rattlecan. The Permatex is water based and I have thinned it with warm water and mix well. When it is cured for a couple days just prepare like you would a primed surface for your color coat. I've not primed over the top of chemical rust neutralizers. I spray acrylic enamel almost exclusively. If you're wanting to eliminate rust pitting... then you may want to use a compatible sandable primer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Gruber Spanaway, Wa. on Monday, December 26, 2011 - 10:31 pm:

I have used POR-15 with good results.
You have to scuff it before any further painting.
It's brushed on but is pretty thick and slow drying so doesn't leave many brush marks.
I did four T fenders a few yrs ago and they still look good.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Verne Shirk on Monday, December 26, 2011 - 10:31 pm:

I used some rust transformer years ago. The kind you paint over rusty metal and it turns from light gray to black when it reacts to the rust. I don't know if that is the type of stuff you are talking about or not. I shot an automotive sealer, regular automotive primer, and acrylic enamel (Centari) over it. It looked like glass when I was done. After a while tho, something happened and I could see all brush strokes like I had just brushed the top-coat on. It was awful but the car was all together and I didn't want to tear it apart to repaint. That was the last time I used it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Thomas Travis on Tuesday, December 27, 2011 - 06:39 am:

Thanks fellows for this good information, now I have to give it a try. Thomas T


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick on Tuesday, December 27, 2011 - 11:05 am:

Red Oxide primer deprives the metal of oxygen, which is essential for metal to oxidize (rust). If you do not want to blast or remove the rust because the rust may go all the way through to the backside, forming holes, if removed, it is important that you paint both sides of the panel and seal the peiece so the rust cannot get under the front side primer from the back side.

There is also Ospho, which converts rust into a black inert substance that becomes a protective crust in itself. Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick on Tuesday, December 27, 2011 - 01:31 pm:

This website has more information about "Ospho". www.ospho.com.

There are other available Phosphoric acid based compounds that do the same thing but "Ospho" is the most well known. Jim Patrick


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