Changed the oil

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Changed the oil
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Brian Clark-Hamilton, OH on Saturday, March 24, 2012 - 10:38 pm:

So, I finally changed the oil in my T. (only took it out for one short trip all last summer)

The oil I drained out (about 2 quarts) was VERY thick and black.

I put in about 4 quarts of new HD30 oil and ran the car today (after installing the new gas tank) for about 10 minutes.

It was steaming like crazy out of the radiator overflow tube.

I drained a bit of oil afterward to see how dirty it had become and it was VERY thin!

I can't really tell if it's got water in it, but it was much thinner than when I put it in.

Now, I'm really worried.

I'm guessing I need to check compression? What do I ask for at NAPA or HD to get the proper adaptor for my compression tester?

I'm hoping I can persuade someone at the NOKENT meeting tomorrow to take pity on a young fool and come inspect my T for me! I certainly cannot afford an engine rebuild! Hoping I haven't done irreparable damage....

I was also going to change the rear end fluid, but it was pretty clean, and nice and thick, so I left it alone for now.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Doug - Glow in the dark, IL on Saturday, March 24, 2012 - 10:52 pm:

If you have water in the oil, it will turn a milky brown color. As to the steaming, was it low on water? running lean? Timing retarded? something dragging, bands, brakes, etc?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Saturday, March 24, 2012 - 10:55 pm:

Don't worry about damage. You put in the correct amount of oil and 30 wt (which might not be recommended by all here) won't hurt anything. Steaming? how high was the water level and what was the spark lever position? A high water level will look like overheating because she'll blow out the excess. An advanced spark lever at idle will actually cause over heating because of incorrect timing. Also be sure the fan belt is operating OK. Having only 2 quarts come out when draining isn't a great thing. You were low on oil. Finally the oil, when hot, will appear thin. This in itself isn't a problem either. Again: 1 water level. 2 spark lever position. 3 fan belt operation. Make sure you aren't actually over heating from some mistake and post back with your results.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Craig Anderson on Saturday, March 24, 2012 - 11:13 pm:

Straight weight oil will thin WAY more than multi-weight oil.
If your T is anything like all the others....... :-) ........it will probably puke coolant until it's down to about an inch or two over the cores.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Brian Clark-Hamilton, OH on Sunday, March 25, 2012 - 09:36 am:

I'll double check the water level. I usually overfill and let it puke, but this was steam.

I did have the spark lever advanced farther than I normally do at idle. I used to just keep it near the top after starting until I watched a you tube video recommended here that said to advance it until the engine smooths out. So, it was past halfway for sure.

I know each T is different......


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Thode Chehalis Washington on Sunday, March 25, 2012 - 10:18 am:

Brian,
Don't forget the gas mixture too. Running too lean will make the engine over heat.

Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Sunday, March 25, 2012 - 10:23 am:

Brian you are very lucky to be a member of the Nokin t's. They are a very active club. A typical club meeting is 15 minutes long followed by a 5 hour drive in the T's with a lunch stop. Georgia and I really miss all the great folks in the club now that we have moved away.

Because the members drive their T's a lot they all know what it takes to make yours safe and reliable. Ask lots of questions and look at the other cars. You and your wife are going to have a great time!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Sunday, March 25, 2012 - 06:10 pm:

Open the top petcock on the back of the oil sump on a flat surface. If any oil drains out, let it run until it stops running out. (since it's new oil, you can save the oil for reuse). Then run the engine again and after you turn off the engine, open the top petcock. You might get a drop or two. If it runs out again, you are adding something to the oil (most likely water) When you first drained the oil, did it appear to have water in it? If it has been setting a long, the water will settle to the bottom, and if it has been running, the oil will get milky brown. You might also get some milky deposit around the inside of the radiator neck if oil has been getting into the water.

Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Brian Clark-Hamilton, OH on Wednesday, May 16, 2012 - 10:25 pm:

Good news!
Got a chance to take Lizzie out again yesterday. This time I checked the water level and I had to add 2 gallons!
After filling the radiator, I took her for about a 5 mile drive with no issues!

I did hit a low man hole cover at about 35mph and it tossed me into the oncoming lane. Luckily, I was able to get control before there was any oncoming traffic.
After returning home, I found that the tires were about 10 pounds low. I hope that is what caused the lack of control.

New policy! ACTUALLY perform a maintenance and safety check EVERY TIME before driving....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Cecil Paoletti -- Rrnton WA on Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 12:36 am:

Brian, I bought a set of spark plug adapters, the 1/2 inch pipe to 14 mm adapter, and I remove the plugs, screw in the adapters and then run a compression test with my "modern" cylinder compression tester. It's a bit of a bother but doesn't take much time. All the vendors sell the plug adapters and those aren't expensive.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 01:28 am:

All the compression gauges you can buy from the local parts stores will be for modern high compression engines, reading up to 300 psi. A little hard to read for engines that max out under 50. I've been watching for pressure gauges at auctions, and I found a hundred pounder in a pile of other stuff I bought. Today I took the tester hose off the 300 psi gauge and put it on the 100 psi one. If the gauge is any good, it should be an improvement.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Craig Anderson, central Wisconsin on Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 01:46 am:

Brian.....TWO GALLONS?
That's 2/3 of the whole system.....where did all the water go?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Thode Chehalis Washington on Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 02:02 am:

Craig,
The water likely tuned to steam. Brian said, "It was steaming like crazy out of the radiator overflow tube."

I support Brian's new policy to, "ACTUALLY perform a maintenance and safety check EVERY TIME before driving...."

Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Craig Anderson, central Wisconsin on Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 02:33 am:

^ Gives new meaning to "Steaming like crazy"....... YIKES


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bud Holzschuh - Panama City, FL on Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 09:03 am:

Brian

Not trying to start an oil thread here, but if you've ever had problems getting a good neutral or the car creeping on startup, try a 5W-30. I have been running it since Liz woke up a year ago with no issues and a perfect neutral.

Cheers
Bud


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Lee Crenshaw Richmond Va. on Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 09:35 am:

Brian, last week, I found myself in the same fix
regarding a T plug adapter. At Pep Boys, I found a 14mm anti-fouling adapter (package of two)and brazed it to a 1/4x1/2" black pipe reducing bushing. Cheap fix. Let me know, and I'll mail you the spare adapter
Lee


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Henry Petrino in Modesto, CA on Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 10:03 am:

Brian,

You "new policy" of a maintenance and safety check EVERY TIME before driving is a must! Unlike our modern cars that pretty much tell you when something needs attention, our T's demand that we know them well and care for them regularly. I'd NEVER take my TT out without giving it the once-over first!

When I was 16 years old I got a sumner job raking hay. The farmer introduced me to an old ford wheel tractor and the V rake behind it, showed me where all the grease fittings were and how to check fluids, then told me that if I EVER started it up in the morning without checking everything and greasing every fitting first that I could consider myself fired! I've never forgotten that lesson and it has served me well, particularly with old equipment.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Dimock, Newfields NH, USA on Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 11:06 am:

Two gallons of water??
It takes two gallons to fill my 1919.
One antifreeze and one water.

Two quarts of oil?
That sounds low -
I always fill it until it runs out the top drain cock on the transmission.
I let it flow out until it drips.

If the oil is really dirty (Black) - I drain the oil, fill the crank case with kerosene, let it sit for a few hours, jack up the front of the car, drain the kerosene, pour a bit of oil in the crankcase and let it drain, lower the car and fill it with oil to the correct level.

Like others have mentioned- I check the oil, water (making sure the tubes are covered), tire pressure, gasolene, and engage my brain before going on any trip - even a simple drive in the neighborhood.
If I don't do it I'll have to fire myself. :-)

I also do a complete grease and oil cup fill at least once a month and before any trip that it more than local.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 11:51 am:

The simplest way to clean the internals of your Model T engine is to use a high quality detergent oil, drive your car and change the oil frequently. Detergent oils loosen the crud over time and collect the particles in a colloidal suspension. The oil becomes dark and the crud leaves your engine when you drain the oil.

A problem can occur in engines with an oil pump that have been using non-detergent oils. Sometimes in these engines the detergent oil will loosen up sufficient crud that the oil pump intake screen plugs up. Usually draining the oil and refilling with fresh detergent oil will solve this problem.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem on Thursday, May 17, 2012 - 12:11 pm:

Brian,

Can you explain how you got 2 qts. low on oil? That's way too little oil, though you probably caught it in time.

When you check the oil, open the top petcock and look for at least 6 drops of oil, or a stream, to come out. One or two drops does NOT mean you have oil up to that point. The petcock valve itself will hold 3 or 4 drops while the engine may be empty! I never look at the lower petcock. If it's not coming out of the top, you haven't got enough. (My rule, not everyone else's) Check it every time you buy gas.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Warren Henderson on Friday, May 18, 2012 - 08:19 am:

Brian, owning a Model t is a learning proposition. We've all been there and done things not so good for our T and learned for it. Welcome to the club and faithfully fallow your "new rule".

Happy motoring, Warren


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Brian Clark-Hamilton, OH on Saturday, May 26, 2012 - 10:00 pm:

Thanks for all the feedback and responses!

The car doesn't get driven that often, but I do wipe up the drips occasionally. I guess those drips add up over the course of a year.

I plan on taking the car out next weekend for a short trip to confirm that operation is as expected.

I will for sure oil, grease, water and air up everything before she leaves the garage!

I'll add the plug adapter to my next order from Lang's. I need to get an oil screen for the hogshead anyway. Would like to know what's going on in there. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Brian Clark-Hamilton, OH on Saturday, May 26, 2012 - 10:02 pm:

Can I assume (Yes, I know), that since the cooling system is not pressurized, that the water can evaporate over time as well?

Again, car has only been driven probably 20 miles in the last 3 years due to various projects and other issues.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rob Heyen - Nebraska on Saturday, May 26, 2012 - 10:44 pm:

Brian,
Yes, you will evaporate some water over time. Are you using coolant/anti-freeze too? A 50 50 mixture will give better cooling and keep the system from corroding as quickly.
Rob


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