Model A Connecting Rod Adjustment

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Model A Connecting Rod Adjustment
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Thursday, April 19, 2012 - 02:03 pm:

How difficult is it to pull the pan and gain access to tighten a rod on a 1929 Model A Ford Roadster?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Robison on Thursday, April 19, 2012 - 02:28 pm:

Just a few bolts, Go to work!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Thursday, April 19, 2012 - 03:24 pm:

Ted,
ONE trick first though, (well two, first is drain the oil!) on the manifold side of the block, just above the pan rail in the middle of it, there is a 1/8" pipe plug. Take that out, find a bolt that will fit in the hole--not tightly! and insert it in the hole. This will (hopefully)keep the oil pump from falling down while you remove the pan. Then, holding the pump, take the bolt out and lower the pump and set it in the pan so it doesn't drip all over the place. Trust me, don't work on the rods with the pump dangling up there (ask my forehead why I know that)--and don't forget to put the pipe plug back in when you're done! OH, and check the spring on the bottom of the pump that keeps it in place when the pan is back in.
BTW, you will find there isn't as much "body clearance" under the A as there is under the T!
T'
David D.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Thursday, April 19, 2012 - 03:30 pm:

If the oil pump comes out, be very careful how you put it back in. I once had the experience of working on an A and putting the pan back on and filling up with oil. I hit the starter, there was a clunk. The engine would not turn over. Yes, the pump was laying in the bottom of the pan and a rod hit it.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Thursday, April 19, 2012 - 05:27 pm:

Norman has a very good point.
If the pan doesn't spring away from the rail, the spring isn't pushing the pump into place, so check it out. It's not much of a spring, but it does insure that everything is where it belongs.
T'
David D.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Michael Rogers on Thursday, April 19, 2012 - 09:39 pm:

A little trick to hold the pump in place with what is at hand. Take the locking bolt out of the head that holds the distributor and replace the plug with it minus the lock nut. This bolt can be screwed in far enough to hold the pump in till you can loosen it and remove it without it dropping into the pan or on your head.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Michael Rogers on Thursday, April 19, 2012 - 09:41 pm:

This will also work to hold the pump in while you replace the pan.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Carter - South Jersey on Thursday, April 19, 2012 - 09:53 pm:

There is a lot more open space than there is through the inspection cover on a T:
bottom


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Friday, April 20, 2012 - 11:25 am:

If you still have the original nuts on the rod bolts, you will need a 21/32" socket. That is the only place I have ever found that size, but any other wrench size will round the corners of the nuts.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Friday, April 20, 2012 - 04:59 pm:

Before you go putting a bolt in the plug hole, it's pipe thread!
A trick for putting the pan gasket on under the car is, cut the head off some longer bolts and put a slot in them so you can use a screw driver if need be to take them back out. Put the studs in the a few of the holes. Now take some paper clips and bend them so they make a hook. You don't need to use any gasket cement just a little grease on the gasket. Slide the gasket on the studs and use the bent paper clips to hole it in place. Now slide the oil pump in place and hold it in place with a piece of wire wrapped around the manifolds. Slide the pan into place and start the bolts. Once you have the bolts started you can cut the wire that is holding the oil pump and remove it as well as the bent paper clips. By the way, dry fit the rear cork seal as they are two long and need to be trimmed some. There should be a little squish there and you can use a little sealer in the corner where the two gaskets meet. If you are using the rope seal in the front do not trim but make sure it is seated in the recess.
Have fun!
MarkG


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dewey, N. California on Friday, April 20, 2012 - 05:12 pm:

Mark's idea of a wire to hold the pump works, but I've always used the LOOSE bolt in the pipe plug hole. I said loose, because it is a tapered thread, and the only reason I use a bolt instead of a piece of rod, is that (I believe) the loose threads on the bolt catch on the pipe threads enough that it doesn't just fall out. One could get fancy and drill a pipe plug, thread the hole in the plug for a long screw, and use that to hold the pump in. (too much work when I need the pan put on to go make such a tool, but it's not a bad idea--parts vendors, I only want 1¢ per tool for "my cut" on this GREAT idea!
:-)
T'
David D.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By clayton swanson on Friday, April 20, 2012 - 06:46 pm:

mark is right its pipe thread. i have made a tool...drill thru the center of an 1/8 pipe plug and tap 1/4" threads in it so you can screw a normal bolt in. just takes a minute and then you can feel how much pressure you are putting on the pump and not wreck the threads. when going back together if the pump moves around you goof up the gasket and say lots of naughty things


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Layden Butler on Friday, April 20, 2012 - 07:05 pm:

In the old days any mechanic worth his salt had a pair of these in his tool chest. When reinstalling the pan after cleaning all the gasket surfaces they would be run in finger tight on opposite sides of the block. The new gasket was placed on the pan and the pan slid up over these pins which then held the pan in place. Some of the bolts were run in finger tight to hold the pan, pins were removed and the rest of the bolts were inserted.
In the old days pans were often removed for cleaning or more serious engine work. Many mechanics had several sets with different threads for different engines they commonly worked on. Saved a lot of time, buggered up gaskets and sore arms!
pan


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Layden Butler on Friday, April 20, 2012 - 07:11 pm:

By the way they work great on Model Ts because they hold the loose bolt rings in place!


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