Off topic tip for your troybilt 2 cycle weedeater

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Off topic tip for your troybilt 2 cycle weedeater
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Thursday, April 19, 2012 - 06:59 pm:

just thought I would share this with my friends here.It is sprang of the year and everybody is dragging out thier stuff to cut grass.Since I am the neighborhood fix it man,I have got ahold of 2 of these so far and did the same thing to fix both.These Troybilt weedeaters come in not wanting to run except on half choke.
There is adjustments on the carb.But apparently only your certified dealer has the tool.
Well you may have what is needed in your shop.
There is no room even for a surgical insturment to get around the adjustement screws.So I cut a slot in the things with a dremel tool.
Picture attached.It takes about a 1/2 to 3/4 turn counter clockwise to give it enough to run right.yes you do have to cut the slot into the "body"of the carb to get down to the screw top to slot it but that metal is just there to keep you out like a cheap fence.serves no other purpose.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Noel D. Chicoine, MD, Pierre, SD on Thursday, April 19, 2012 - 10:04 pm:

Good one, Mack. Just got done fixing my daughter's lymphedema pump. Gawd I hate plastic!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By jeff cordes on Friday, April 20, 2012 - 12:06 am:

I've done the same thing with a hacksaw and the carb in a vise. Works great


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Friday, April 20, 2012 - 11:35 am:

Not only do dealers have the tool they won't sell it to you. I happen to have them all because I worked as a mechanic for a small engine repair shop in town. Many units have hidden or tamper proof adjustments. Some more hidden than others. I dare you to find them on a Red Max unit. Look on line for more info. A word of advice: Many of the better units have warranties that can be 2 or 3 years long. You might be "screwing" yourself out of a free repair or even a new carb in some cases. Check first because if you do what Mack did you'll be out cold as far as free repairs are concerned. Their not looking to beat you but a mod like that lets them out. I know what he did works but don't leap if you can help it. You'll probably need that recipt you threw away but not always. And damn it drain that thing at the end of the season and run it dry. If you run it dry it'll start next season. Those carbs are like Swiss watches inside. ANY THING will set them off.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Friday, April 20, 2012 - 01:00 pm:

Charlie is correct for sure.But the 1's I am working on are out of warrenty and the folkes would otherwise be needing to spend money they dont have on another machine.
If you have a warrenty,for sure dont mess with it till it is out.Then have at it to save money.

Charlie,did ye ever run into a catalytic convertor yet on a weedeater? If it werent 1 that I gutted last month on a 2010 Echo,I have idea what it coulda been.It was a thin silver material rolled up Really tite in a square area inside the muffler.The engine ran but under heavy load till I cleaned that out.It was full of carbon and such in that metal foil.It werent a typical screen for spark retard like you normaly have to clean out.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Neil Kaminar on Friday, April 20, 2012 - 11:03 pm:

You can also use a piece of copper tubing. You don't have to void the warranty. You have to swedge down the end of the copper tubing to fit the outside of the adjustment screw. I used a hammer with light tapping while turning the tubing, but others may have better methods. The other end of the copper tubing can be bent with a 90 degree elbow to ease turning.

A lot of the modern gas engines won't run correctly right out of the box. If you take it back to get it fixed under the warranty, they will give you another one that won't run. It is a shame that the EPA doesn't trust us consumers to be smart enough to adjust our own carbs. Sign of the times.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Saturday, April 21, 2012 - 12:10 am:

Mack: the EPA is closing in on these things and the units are changing to meet requirements. What you found is referred to as an afterburner. You can guess what it does by the name. If your exhaust/muffler is carbon clogged it's from 2 possible reasons. 1: Improper mixing of oil and or cheap oil and 2: (and this is a weird one), not running it at wide open throttle. "If I run it slower it'll last longer". Dead wrong. Slow running causes overheating because of lower air flow from the fan. This causes the oil to carbonize. WOT as it's referred to is an industry standard for 2 cycle engines. It will lock your piston rings and clog the exhaust ports. 2 cycle oils are actually rated by a letter in a circle on the label. No rateing? Garbage. Red Max has the highest which I believe is now F. Here's something else you've never heard: Alot of these units are rated for high test fuel. You heard me. EVERY manufacturers class I've attended says the same thing. (to the mechanics). Try and find it any where. Got a 2 cycle that won't speed up? Don't mess with the carb first. Pull the muffler and check it and the exhaust port on the cylinder. Lay you 5 it's carbon loaded. I could go on for days....


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