Drove the Centerdoor last week for the first time in 30 years

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Drove the Centerdoor last week for the first time in 30 years
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By george house on Saturday, April 21, 2012 - 07:54 am:

Became it's second owner 30 years ago; restored it 20 years ago and married 19 years ago. Wife and I have never drove or ridden in it. Then I had Ross Lilleker restore the correct 7-22-19 engine - did a superb job - so I'd feel better about driving it. The tie rod controlling toe-in was only 3" out - fixed that and upper windshield wanted to fall in. Fixed that with copious quantities of toothpicks and Elmer's wood glue. Now the coil box is causing it to miss out. I've tried the wooden wedges to the rear of the coils and tightening up on the little steel divider between #2 and #3 - to no avail. It only runs very strong on 4 cylinders with my right foot on the coil box. Please help


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Eagle Ida Fls on Saturday, April 21, 2012 - 07:58 am:

Good for you George. There is always something to do on a T. I'd love to see a picture of the Centerdoor.
Rich


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Voss on Saturday, April 21, 2012 - 08:03 am:

Check and clean the wires that are hooked to the coil box on both ends.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rob in Nebraska on Saturday, April 21, 2012 - 08:24 am:

George,

Congrats getting it going. Maybe a Fun Projects coil box kit would help too. I've not used one, but many on the forum rave about them.

Pics please, good luck,

Rob

From my iPad


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Saturday, April 21, 2012 - 09:23 am:

It sounds like the connections in the coil box are the problem. You really need to take the coil box apart, bend all the spring contacts so they always rest on the coil posts, and clean all the contacts with some fine scotchbrite. This needs to be done every 5 - 10 years. It makes good sense to install the Fun Projects coil box kit at the same time, then you won't have to worry about the car dieing if the wood gets wet.

I am sure that someone will invent an e coilbox that costs a couple thousand dollars so we don't have to spend an hour every 5-10 years on maintenance of the coil box :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike_black on Saturday, April 21, 2012 - 09:34 am:

George,
My TT used to do that. The coils would rise up out of the box. I tried the wedges, but the only thing that worked was pushing them down with my foot worked while I drove. I took the coils out and applied boiled linseed oil to all the coils and the wood inside the coilbox (tried not to get it on the contacts of either). Wiped off excess after 20 min, waited 24 hours and did it again. Waited 24 hours and installed coils back in box and cut and installed a piece of old inner tube over top of the coils (don't let it interfere with the coil points movement)then put the coilbox lid on securely. No problems since!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Willie K Cordes on Sunday, April 22, 2012 - 11:32 am:

Sonny, that coil box lid is supposed to have some tabs on the passenger side of the coil box lid that holds the coils in place. With the lid firmly in place, it should hold the coils in place. Fix that and you will not need all that rigging. Also do what Royce posted about bending the contacts in the box for proper connection and clean all contacts on coils and in the box.
Where were you yesterday?? There was a swap meet in your back yard at New Braunfels, Where were you??????


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Stitt-Southern Oregon on Sunday, April 22, 2012 - 12:43 pm:

Wow George can't wait for your post in 2042 to see how your second drive went...lol
Good luck gettin the cobwebs shakin out.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dean Yoder on Sunday, April 22, 2012 - 01:23 pm:

Royce,
Replacing Fords cheep wood with a Fun Projects coil box kit is like installing a E-timer.
I ran 40,000 miles with cheep ford wood no troubles with the wood, But one day the solder connection (cold joint)let go. A year later when I fixed the connection. I also installed a Fun Projects Kit. If you follow John's directions you will have the best there is! New & improved.
I now have 12,000 miles on My E-timer. Fouled plugs has been the only problem at about 11,000 miles. (14mm plug) Never have used X.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Monday, April 23, 2012 - 01:27 am:

One question I would ask. What are the coils you are using? There are some reproduction coils that are, shall we say, a bit undersized. Even with wedges between the coil and the box, the bottom of the coil can shift back enough to lose critical contact. I have two of those that I got in a box of miscellaneous T parts. So far (I make no bets for later) they seem to work okay IF I can get them to maintain contact. I have put half a clothes pin behind them and still had them lose contact. I jiggle them back into place and they run fine again. I am going to try gluing wood paneling onto the coil to bring it up to original size.
Just a thought.
Center-doors are great Ts! I wish I still had mine.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By george house on Friday, April 27, 2012 - 12:48 pm:

Sorry for the delinquent commo after posing my question guys. Totaled my modern iron and got sick when I tried to siphon 18 gallons of gas outta it. ('98 Explorer). Anyhoo, thanks for all the good ideas. I restored (20 years ago) a doggone coil box lid that didn't have the hardware to push the boxes down ! And I wasn't aware that the 4 copper tabs for #1 &2 are different that the 4 copper tabs for #3 &4. I had 'em in in the wrong wood channels. While I have the utmost respect for Mr. Regan's inventions and making them available to all; I long ago replaced the coil box wood with the hardwood choice and used Sand and Seal on it and feel that'll work well for my needs. I do use his pinion bearing invention and 12 V generator cutout on many of my Model Ts. I haven't fully overcame the missing out issue but its gotten better. Still, with the right foot on the coil box, there is a noticeable improvement in 'smoothness' of cylinder firing. This is the first T I've restored where I used a .280 grind on the camshaft and, let me tell you, it makes a huge difference! . . . Next question: What is the most chivalrous, MissManners way to assist a young lady into my Centerdoor then seat myself behind the steering wheel? I'm 6'3" tall and can't get around sticking my butt in her face while I turn around. And if I get in first, how do I help her into the back seat?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hap Tucker on Friday, April 27, 2012 - 03:38 pm:

George,

It is easy; you open the door for her on the passenger side and let her enter the car first. She sits in the driver’s seat and then you sit in the back seat. With the passenger seat folded forward you will have lots more leg room. Of course this means you need to check her out on how to drive the T. Wait you said for you to sit in the driver's seat....

Sorry for your accident and that you got sick. I've siphoned gas a few times over the years and spent several minutes spitting (not to chivalrous -- but necessary) when I miss judged how close the gas was to the end of the hose. Did you swallow some of it? I may need to switch to the siphon kit that has the little bulb to get it started.

Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off


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