One common way for a generator to "burn out" is for the old style cutout to fail and let the armature overheat and sling out the solder from the wire end joints. I recently read something that led me to believe a T generator armature could possibly be not hard to repair by re-soldering the wire ends where they enter the copper at the brush end. If that is the trouble, it stands to reason it may be worth a try?
Anyone ever done this with success?
My concern would be what has happened the enamel insulation on the copper wire after excessive heating. Breakdown to armature and shorted turns are typical results after windings are overheated.
Unfortunately, you can buy a rewired armature for a lot less than your can rewire one, if you rate your labor at minimum wage.
A friend has an original test bench and can rewire the armatures with that equipment, but he buys them rewired, due to the time required to rewire one of them.
I am curious though. Anyone have any photos of the rewire process for home mechanic. Some of these things I like to do at least once just to learn, even if it does not pay.
The MTFCA Electrical System book says defective field coils should be "repaired or replaced" but doesn't describe repair. To me that suggests that replacement is preferable to attempted repair.
The book describes replacing a defective armature and doesn't even mention repair. You can draw your own inference from that.
It does describe repairing melted commutator connections when the generator has "burned up".
Eric, if it slings only the solder, you're lucky. My TT did that once and gave me a bird nest of wire in the generator, which stopped the generator gear and caused the fiber timing gear to be eaten by the crank gear.
Well here I go. It is a common practice. If it has only "slung" solder an electrical shop can do it or you can. Shops use a solder pot or a very large soldering gun. Mine is about 2" wide and dims lights when it comes on. Quite massive. Now with a six volt battery and an old heavy brush you can make a large amount of heat, carbon arch.
Given the price of T armatures it's worth a try.
Use very little solder and make sure it doesn't run down to the comm and short it out. You'll have to turn and undercut it if you do and put it on a growler. I don't use lead solder. This is advice for those who need a science project.
I have soldered hundreds of armatures and it ain't no fun but sometimes it's the only option.