Has anyone tried the new timers that Snyder's are offering. They are supposed to have improved rollers with hardened steel. I ordered on and it looks like quality and if it performs as well as it looks, will be a real improvement over what has been offered before.
I have one and plan to try it soon. The finish mating of the fiber insulator to the timer contacts does not look ideal but it will likely work OK. Also the one I have has a sticky hinge on the roller. I expect it will be fine after it is lubed.
At the list price of $54.95 it seems to be a good value.
I agree Royce that the finish mating is less than stellar for a new product. I have a fixture for my lathe for centering the timer body to take a precise cut to correct that issue. I have yet to install on the Centerdoor to test.
Steve
Perhaps I don't understand?
How does centering the timer case and taking a precision cut on the roller running surface correct this problem?
A finish pass makes the "runway" smoother than what it came as to eliminate roller bouncing. I also take a pass and machine a small radius on the face area because I use a "Rush" dual contact roller that has a lip that runs parallel to the face you have shown in your photo and on the inside runway. I'll try and post a photo after lunch.
In my opinion that timer is just another example of poorly engineered reproduction Model T parts.
Look at the gaps between the segments and the insulator. The roller is not going to run smoothly on that surface and will quickly destroy the insulator.
I believe that is what happened to this one.
The timer is a switch. How could a manufacturer go to all the trouble to make the stamped case and put so little engineering into the switch components.
I would not recommend that timer to anyone.
Ron the Coilman
I bought one and posted 2 things about it: 1, (if it's the powder coated unit) I needed to remove the coating at the case edge to get it to fit the case hole in the block and 2, The head on the pivot rivet on the roller was too large and just touched the inner lip on the cam causing a slight binding. I overcame both problems and listed them here and promptly got my tail handed to me. Others "in the know" claim they don't last any way but the car's gone so the point is moot for me. However, a reconditioned Ford timer would probably be your best bet.
Hi Steve,
Any chance that you can post pictures of your lathe "fixture", and finished product?
Thanks,
Dave
Here's mine. I did a batch of T timers the other day.
This is the end that goes in the lathe.
Here's the end that faces the cutter tool. It is cut on the inside with a diameter that is a perfect fit for the timer case. When chucked in the lathe the tool splits in half so I can insert another timer without having to find center on the tool again.
Centering it in the lathe:
Thank you Royce.
Dave
I use this [fixture]
Toon
I bought a complete roller timer from Snyders too >>> https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/search.php?q=t-3165&x=0&y=0
The nuts holding the contact pieces weren't tight enough to suit me so I tightened them and bored the timer body as the insulator bulged a bit and made the race bumpy.
It works fine.......
Mine lasted a couple of hundred miles. They gave me credit on a Anderson which I am running now with no problems after the VT tour.
Toon,
Thank you also.
Dave
I don't even have to write what comes to mind. Y'all know already.
rdr
I used one of those reproduction roller timers once. After driving to one car show about 15 miles away the contacts and fibre insulator were already starting to show signs of wear. I switched the reproduction timer for a good original tiger roller timer and have been running it for about a year now without any problems or excessive wear. I oil the timer often and wipe it out about once a month.
Stephen