"Chassis Saver"

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: "Chassis Saver"
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Malone on Monday, April 30, 2012 - 11:18 pm:

I am researching what to use to paint Frame and Chassis parts. Just dropped off the frame for sandblasting and was told there that powder coating is the way to go ($$$).

The local auto parts store guy was selling "Chassis Saver" http://www.magnetpaints.com/underbody.asp

I was thinking POR 15 and this appears to be similar (although the "as seen on TV" logo in the flyer made me skeptical). A little internet research made me even more hesitant and I didn't find it mentioned in any recent thread here.

Has anyone used this product before?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve in Tennessee on Monday, April 30, 2012 - 11:55 pm:

Mark,

I used POR-15 on my rims (sterling silver top coat) and have been pleased. POR-15 is a binary paint...that is to say people either love it or hate it. I had no trouble with it but you have to go step by step and it is not cheap.

I am in the process right now of rebuilding all the wheels one at a time. They were done before but the paint (not POR-15) was chipping after a year so I am having the felloes and hubs powder coated. They look good. Time will tell how they hold up. The POR-15 rims still look just fine - no chipping that I have found.

Steve


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Stroud on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 01:06 am:

That Chassis Saver paint Magnet makes may be great stuff, I don't know how long it will last, but it says right on the can, it is not U.V. resistant. That part I can vouch for. I did some custom welding and fabrication for a local heavy construction contractor back in the late '90s, early'02, We built a lot of equipment and painted it with the black Magnet paint. The owner didn't think it needed to be top coated because the parts were mounted on truck chassis under the cabs and beds. They were all faded within one to two months. The company said it wouldn't hurt it, but you could run your hand over it and your hand would be black, that tells me that it wouldn't last very long. With a top coat, I think it would be great stuff. JMHO. Dave


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 01:15 am:

In ancient times, when you could still get it, I used rattle cans of epoxy enamel. Thirty years later those chassis parts are still good. Now that I can't get that paint anymore, I'm using Rustoleum. We'll see if it holds up as well.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Stroud on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 01:28 am:

Steve, back in the early '90s, I painted a bunch of my TT chassis parts with gloss black epoxy spray cans, they came out beautiful, almost looked like porceline. Lasted about a year out in the sun, faded faster than the Rustoleum. Dave


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Martin Vowell, Pacoima, CA on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 02:40 am:

Rustoleum is pretty good paint, it covers well and depending upon which kind it is, dries well too. My chassis, engine and wheel rims are painted with various colors of Rustoleum and it's been on my car since 79. I recently painted 3 of my fenders with Rustoleum Specialty Black Lacquer, looks good, takes a goodly bit of time to dry (it's probably not real lacquer) but it looks very shiny without rubbing.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike_black on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 07:30 am:

Mark,
In 1999 I used POR-15 on the running boards of my TT.To this day, even the tops of the diamonds have not worn through with a lot of stepping and twisting climbing in and out. Within 2 years I was at a car show with it out in the sun and noticed they had a brownish tint to them. Wasn't very UV resistant, but,it's tough stuff! I've successfully used it on spring leaves and frames. If you get it on you, it has to "wear" off! Also, buy only as much as you will use then. I've bought extra to get a better deal, then a year later when I went to use it it was not usable.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike_black on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 07:32 am:

Also, POR-15 worked well on the steel part of wheels, but turned to "alligator skin" on the wooden spokes.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bud Holzschuh - Panama City, FL on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 08:44 am:

Steve

Rustoleum makes a rattlecan epoxy enamel
called "Appliance Epoxy"

I have painted many items on the T with it including the fenders, splash aprons and running boards. It seems to be scratch resistant and has a deep black & shiny finish.

About $4 at Lowes or Home Depot in white beige and black.

Cheers
schuh


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary H. White - Sheridan, MI on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 09:08 am:

I like Eastwood's "Rust Encapsulator". Does a great job. Comes in black, silver, and red. Does not need to be over coated to protect from sun light. Simply remove the worst of the rust by wire brushing and apply. Or if not wanting to do the wire brushing you can use their "Rust Converter" first. Both come in quart, gallon, or spray can. www.eastwood.com


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rick J. Gunter on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 09:54 am:

I've never heard of Rust Converter. What is it?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Doug - Braidwood (glow in the dark), IL on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 10:09 am:

I've used the rust convertor. It is great stuff. I have used the Rustoleum Hammered Paint when doing a frame that has pitting. It blends the imperfections so they are not so noticable. My grandson and I did a frame in 2005 and it still looks like it did then.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Zibell on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 11:28 am:

I used POR 15 for my work. For areas that will be exposed to UV, I applied a spray coat of the POR 15 UV resistant paint over the standard POR 15. http://www.por15.com/BLACKCOTE/productinfo/BCG/ This was recommended to me by a friend that restored an MGB about 20 years ago. It still looks as good as the day he painted it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 12:52 pm:

Mark,

Unless you're going to drive the car in winter salt or through puddles of acid, any good quality paint will last you forever, (relatively speaking). It got be 100 years old with what Henry put on it. Any quality automotive finish will be better than that. Plus, the car will get good storage, great care and low miles.

We tend to way overthink these things sometimes.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 01:22 pm:

Por 15 will fade something awfull.I painted a chassis with it,hung it on the side of the shed out of the direct sun and out of the direct weather, for a few years,and it is faded bad,and the rust is popping back out.I wire brushed it,cleaned it with laquer thinner 3 times with rags and such,and then painted the por 15 on it.I wouldnt waste my money or time with it anymore.
Rustoleum it and let it live.
I was impressed with por15 at first,but as time goes by,naw,it aint worth a da--.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike D, Williamsburg VA on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 05:37 pm:

If you are planning on keeping your "T", I would spend the extra $$ and power coat the frame. It will never rust again..if the powder coating is done right


I had my frame powder coated!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dean Dorholt - Mpls, MN on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 05:55 pm:

A friend of mine thats a bodyman told me the paint he uses on all the chassie parts he paints is the stuff you get at Tractor Supply called Valspar Tractor & Implement paint. It's a enamel paint and is has tough as nails. If you want to you can add the enamel hardener.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bernard, San Buenaventura, Calif on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 06:01 pm:

First,
do no harm.

Powdercoating a Model T frame I consider to be harmful. Undoing this will require taking the entire car apart and then some. Powdercoating is Y2K stuff that is so bluntly obvious, pretty much like an e-timer with a transparent housing. If I was looking for a T and it had a powdercoated frame, I'd pass. There is plenty of semi-gloss chassis paint available that will look right, is right, and will provide decades of protection.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Mahoney on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 09:48 pm:

Mark,

I sprayed POR-15 on ALL my undercarriage parts; frame, axles, drive shaft, pan, brake lever, wishbone, ... THEN (per instructions) I topcoated with their BlackCote (gloss) which gives it the UV protection. Think of POR-15 as the "primer". You need to top coat it to finish the job off. Now you can leave the POR-15 as is but exposure to sun will eventually discolor it. You can topcoat with other paint chemistries but you have to apply a tie-coat for bonding. Stuff is VERY tough. CAUTION: read the instructions carefully! It sets up with moisture - not a typical paint! Took me a while to dial in the HVLP settings and technique. You've got to watch the timing between POR-15 and topcoat application. If you wait too long there's an intermediate tie coat application required to provide tooth for topcoat because POR-15 is so hard (yet flexible too). I tried some brushing but found that it left the brush marks - remember, if it's very humid out, the stuff sets up quite fast (unfortunately). As mentioned, not inexpensive stuff. Also, very hard if not impossible to burnish any blemishes. You'll end up dulling the finish no matter how fine you go - at least that's my experience. So, overall, I'd say it's a good, strong finish IF you follow the directions and understand the limitations. I would never use for the body or topside (visible) components for the reasons previously mentioned. One last HEAVY CAUTION: USE A QUALITY RESPIRATOR WITH THIS STUFF PARTICULARLY IF SPRAYING!!!! Air fed best. It's a carcinogen. Best I can tell you. Good luck! TM


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Patrick Martin on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 10:08 pm:

Mack Cole,

You didn't read the directions did you. It's not paint.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Glenn Edwards on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 10:55 pm:

The appliance paint mentioned above was tested by someone a year or so ago. He painted some fenders and left them outside to see how well the finish lasted. I remember seeing a couple of updates on it. Does anyone remember how it turned out?

Thanks,

Glenn


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Tuesday, May 01, 2012 - 11:52 pm:

Well,maby I should use the term applied.
It has been a few years.I cant remember if I did read or not.I do know it mentioned a chemical to clean the metal,which I didnt have.so I used the laquer thinner which should have removed all the crap from the metal.
Wire brushing loose stuff off was proper.You cant remove all the rust or the chemical wouldnt have anything to stick to from what I understand.
I will have to take a picture or 2 so you can see what the issue is.It looks like pop up spots all over it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Wednesday, May 02, 2012 - 03:16 am:

Glenn, that was Jim Patrick's test - see this long thread for results: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/182651.html
Conclusion: Don't leave a Rustoleum painted car outside for long periods without protection. When it has faded it can be polished back to shine though.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Anthony Bennett on Friday, May 04, 2012 - 08:50 am:

I know a bloke who used to work at a tractor dealership. He got to tart up the trade ins and his motto was something like this.

"Enamel is great, it makes things shiny and it'll even stick to dirt, so you can make dirt shiny and people will buy it!"

Powder coat is great for outdoor furniture, but wherever you screw a bolt up to it, and in so doing break the powder coat, moisture can penetrate and lift the coating off...

just my 5cents

cheers

Anthony


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 02:10 am:

A very good friend of mine that does high-end restoration work has said for many years that "A thick enamel paint job hides a multitude of sins". I use Rustoleum enamel.
Most "rust conversion" chemicals are some form of phosphoric acid. Metal Etch is an old brand that is very good, but it seems to have disappeared from Califunny.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary H. White - Sheridan, MI on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 09:14 am:

I may have to change my opinion of Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. The quart can I just got is not what I've used before. It is like a black paint thinner. Not the consistency of enamel paint like previously. Also says on can "flat black" instead of "black matt" finish on old can. Spray cans still say black matt finish. Going to check it out further today and talk to Eastwood.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Malone on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 10:59 am:

Thanks everybody for the great advice. Just got the frame back from sandblasting. I think i'll go "old school" and use a semi-gloss enamel (rustoleum).


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bernard, San Buenaventura, Calif on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 02:41 pm:

Use Bill Hirsch's Chassis Black.
That's what it's made for. Specifically made for.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Sunday, May 06, 2012 - 01:17 pm:

Since the EPA is saving us and the environment from all sorts of terrible things, most paint formulations have been constantly changing as the VOC's and lots of other terrible bad things are being removed. I got it straight from a Minwax engineer that their Marine Spar Varnish for instance is like their old version only by having the same main label coloring so as to hopefully attract former customers. The stuff inside is nothing like it was. If you have old rattle cans or old paints that you really liked - don't be fooled into thinking the same can label means the contents is the same stuff - read the label fine print. If it doesn't come in a rattle can you may find that the same stuff you used to spray on will no longer contain spraying instructions other than to say not to try and spray it.


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