Holley nh question

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Holley nh question
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ken bechtel on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 08:00 pm:

hi all! i have a holley nh carb that needs rebuilt.any suggestions how to remove the spray nozzle and the needle seat? i have had this carb in penetrating oil for two weeks now and still won't turn out. i don't want to get this carb junked out. thanks . Ken


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erich Bruckner, Vancouver, WA on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 08:07 pm:

Best advice on this subject was what I learned here on the forum. Use a torch to heat the casting to a dull red around the area of the stuck parts. Some say to quench it, but I have not been brave enough to do that. After cooling, the spell is broken, and the part will be easy to unscrew.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Putnam, Bluffton, Ohio on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 08:08 pm:

Heat and cold water are your friends! Get the area of the nozzle very hot, not quite red, then drop it in water. Turn out the nozzle with light finger pressure. Works every time. Takes about 10 minutes. No soaking required.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erich Bruckner, Vancouver, WA on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 08:09 pm:

Ken, your T in the profile pic looks like a perfect hunting rig with a preset blind ready to go.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Putnam, Bluffton, Ohio on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 08:10 pm:

Erich be brave! It is the difference in the contraction of different metals that breaks the devils hold! Nothing will hurt the cast iron. It is not that fragile.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erich Bruckner, Vancouver, WA on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 08:13 pm:

So far I have not had to, but next time it will be PPPFFFFFSSHHT (sound of casting being quenched) all the way. That would be faster too.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ken bechtel on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 08:23 pm:

thanks for all the info guys. hunting rig? that is a good idea cuz i like hunting and model t's.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erich Bruckner, Vancouver, WA on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 08:28 pm:

Ken, so do I and I have been waiting for just the right chance to combine the two.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ken bechtel on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 08:37 pm:

Erich i hope my t looks as good as yours about a year from now. when i get it finished I'll post some pictures


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erich Bruckner, Vancouver, WA on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 08:42 pm:

Happy hunting Ken. Between the T and deer and turkey hunting, I am nearly in heaven already. Both are best if shared. Happy T-ing as well. Looking forward to seeing the progress.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Leming on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 09:01 pm:

Heating cherry red and quinching or just letting it cool on its own always works for me also - Jack Daron recommended that to me a while back and it does work well. I had the exact same situation on the NH carb.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erich Bruckner, Vancouver, WA on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 09:07 pm:

Only time I ever broke a carb casting was after soaking a long time in kroil, twisting with a cheater bar on the tool. The torch is so much better.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Craig Anderson, central Wisconsin on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 09:39 pm:

To Erich and EVERYONE who chooses the quenching method (the method WE ALWAYS used) pay attention:
HANG THE CARB FROM A WIRE WHEN YOU QUENCH
STEAM is unbelievably hot.......and fast.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ken bechtel on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 09:46 pm:

I know it's getting late but i just had to give the heat and rapid cool a try. pice of pie! I think a slow cool would work the same. thanks for all your help guys. Ken


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 10:55 pm:

I have an NH that I cannot get the main jet loose. Every couple months I heat it with a propane torch and then let it cool and put Knocker Loose on it. Been trying for a couple years now. No joy.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Putnam, Bluffton, Ohio on Saturday, May 05, 2012 - 11:03 pm:

Royce: Propane is not hot enough. Acetylene is needed.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Leming on Sunday, May 06, 2012 - 08:58 am:

That is true - I kept trying with propane. Then I used the Acetylene, and it worked first try!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Sunday, May 06, 2012 - 11:07 am:

Haven't done many, maybe 6 all told (all NH). Propane always worked. No quenching and not red hot either. Right size screw driver is important for both needle seat and jet. Be totally sure to remove the rock hard gaskets from both before re-assembly. Not really sure if it's the threads sticking or both these units being locked onto the gaskets that causes the problem. Their like iron when removed and can easily be missed by a 1st. timer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erich Bruckner, Vancouver, WA on Sunday, May 06, 2012 - 11:23 am:

For me the propane was not hot enough. If you do not have an oxy/acetaline set up, perhaps a MAPP gas outfit would work.

Craig, excellent point on the steam hazard. No burns = good day.

Charlie, good point on the need to fully remove all old gasket material. It does get petrified in there and looks like part of the casting sometimes.


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