the pack nut threads are rusted bad.anyone know of a way to attach the exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold without buying one of those $70.00 accessory kits? thanks. Ken
I guess a 3 cornered file is out of the question? Believe some of the guys have or know of a thread die for this but it probably isn't cheap either. What are you using now?
My t is not on the road yet.won't be road ready for about one year. nope! a thread file won't work. hardly any threads at all. thanks
Ken, I would either find a better manifold or buy a new one.
Stephen
Have you contacted any of the dealers in used parts? It may be easier to find a better one than to fix a bad one.
A muffler shop could make you a new exhaust pipe with one end expanded to fit over your manifold and the other welded to your muffler, or one of their new ones. The pipe could be attached with a stand u-bolt muffler clamp.
thanks for the ideas . ken
Ken -- Good used ones are difficult to find; they're all warped. Since you have a year to deal with the situation, you could save up the $80 for a new one and not need to worry about it ever again.
Ken- don't risk using a manifold with marginal threads.
Two possible side effects:
1. carbon monoxide poisoning for the occupants of the car due to leaking exhaust system. http://www.silentshadow.org/carbon-monoxide-in-your-car.html
2. tailpipe laying in the road when you are miles from home, possibly taking some more good stuff with it.
My advice- fix it right! Don't patch it.
.22/day = new manifold in a year.
Another possibility of running with a bad manifold to pipe connection. Setting the wood structure around the firewall and floorboards on fire while driving down the road.
I still find very usable manifolds. Most often, if an original manifold has good threads, it most likely is warped. If the manifold is warped only a little bit, you can sometimes enlarge the gland holes a little bit by using a small grinder around the top of numbers 1 & 4 and the bottoms of numbers 2 & 3. Then you can use the glands when putting the manifold on. If it is warped much, it won't seal after enlarging the holes, even with the glands.
Warped manifolds can also be straightened. But for 22 cents a day, a new one sounds pretty good.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
I used a sheet of copper wrapped around the connection and secured with hose clamps for a couple of years. Worked well, but eventually the copper started to crack. Eventually got a new manifold. I wouldn't worry too much about CO leakage there; it's not as if the T has an airtight exhaust system to start with.
a new manifold it is! thanks for the advice. ken
If you want to delay the new manifold you can cut the nut and with a hose clamp use it like a clamp on the bad threads.
John, Thanks for posting the picture,
I've used that trick and it has held for many tours. Easy to take off as well.
I just bought a manifold nut for a new exhaust system. The manifold nut was extremely tight, so tight that I was concerned I was going to damage the exhaust manifold while tightening..I got rid of it put the old one back on with anti-seize and one of those clamps that prevents the nut from backing out
Joe,
Sometimes these new ones are just too darned tight and you are right, too much torque and these old manifolds like to brek off like Chocolate Easter Bunnies shatter!
Here's a tip if it happens to someone else. Those old threads will usually go and dull a file....so...Mount the manifold in a good vice,add some good cutting oil...and 1/4 turn on, 1/8 turn off...have patience, stop for a while if it feels hot...don't worry about the gold dust pile...and you can walk it right on up but the nut is then only good for that manifold
Told someone else this 'trick' and they recommended lapping compound rather than oil. I don't know haven't tried that yet, but pass it along also.
Use your hack saw on that new nut with the good threads then lock it up with the s/s hose clamp. You'll forget about it real soon. Sure worked for me.
I have a slightly used Ford script manifold with excellent threads, no pitting, and scarcely any surface rust that I was saving for my own use, but offered it for a reasonable price of $50.00 plus shipping to solve a "bad threads" problem, but there was no interest. I guess I was asking too much, Oh well, it'll stay my spare.
I have a SAE and Metric thread file. Each file has eight pitches of threads. I never tried it on an exhaust manifold, but was able to restore threads on my front hub to get my hub cap to screw on.
Vermont American 21991 Thread Restoring Files
Renews damaged, external threads * Restores right or left-hand threads on any diameter * Carded * For 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 18, 20, and 24 TPI
Hi Ken,
I did the Easter bunny thing with my exhaust manifold a few years back. I bought a new manifold, nut and exhaust pipe. Everything fits together ... no more leaks at the engine block, no more exhaust pipe leaks, A major problem gone for ever!
My $.22 per day paid off well.
The threads are 1 7/8"-16. Back in 2010 I dropped my manifold on the concrete and damaged the threads so they were flat and the manifold nut would not screw on. A member was kind enough to lend me his 1 7/8"-16 die and it really saved my manifold. I'm glad I didn't have to buy one as they are very expensive. Perhaps someone will come to your rescue. Jim Patrick
Terry W,
I would say $50 for a good , straight, original manifold is not out of line (but it better be straight for that). But I have two already, plus three more that are almost straight. And only three planned projects to use them. If no one wants to pay that, keep it. You can't have too many good T parts around.
I recommend using valve lapping compound to slowly work a too-tight nut onto a manifold. Took me about fifteen minutes for one that started out not going even two turns hard. It works beautifully now.
Just put a dab of compound on the manifold threads, then work the nut forward and back with moderate force, slowly advancing forward. Occasionally, take the nut off, and add a little more compound. When done, clean the grit off reasonably well. I use an original Ford type adjustable wrench. I usually carry one on tour also.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
i use a dremel tool with a tiny dimond cuting wheel and chase the threads, i have also done this on axel threads, hubcap threads etc. i buy a pkg of 5 of these cuting wheels at habor freight. they work great for thread restoration. have even had to use this method on my lawnmower spindle blade nuts shafts. i dont straighten my manifolds, i use a small tip in my dremel and egg shape the center two ports on the bottom, and the outer two ports i egg shape on the top. if the manifold is only warped by 1/8" thats only 1/16th off the top and bottom of the ports. and it works great, and the glands all fit too, with no leaks.
Doug, you must have the steady hand of a Brain Surgeon. When I dropped my manifold and buggered up the threads, I tried using a Dremel tool to chase and repair the damaged threads and it only took one touch of the Dremel, for me to realize I don't have the soft touch and steady hand it requires to do such delicate work. Luckily, I was able to borrow a 1 7/8"-16 die from a helpful member. Jim Patrick
1 7/8"-16 Manifold thread die