Is there a magazine article or information anywhere else regarding the correct original components for metal valve stems? I did a forum search and read through 69 threads and didn't learn much. A few posters said it would be nice if some one could put together a chart showing what was used for what years on what wheels. The Model A guys did a good job on this in their book; pages of information.
I looked through several period ('06-'15) catalogs but they were not much help ether. They have pictures but their brief descriptions don't include part numbers or dimensions.
I sorted out my hardware collection and I think I learned a thing or two, but I still have a lot of questions.
I scanned part of the below page from a Snyder's catalog. Lang's has the same diagram. Perhaps it will help. Jim Patrick
PS. One difference between the Snyder's and Lang's diagrams. Lang's has a tire flap between the inner tube and the bridge washer. Snyder's is missing the tire flap. The tire flap really does a lot to protect the inner tube, especially if the inside of the rim is rough.
Here's Lang's diagram.
The original Model T threaded metal valve stems were 5/16" NF. The current reproduction stuff is all 3/8" NF.
Original 1917 - 27 type stem and nut with the cover removed:
Some trivia: The top sections (small diameter) were always 5/16" x 32, according to the drawings.
The large diameter was 13/32" x 28 when used on a 30 x 3 tube and 15/32" x 26 when used on a 30 x 3-1/2 tube until 1920, when this size was obsoleted and the 13/32" sized used on all tubes NOT used on demountable rims.
Thanks Jim, but that is not much help ether. Aftermarket catalogs are a poor source for accurate information. What I want to know:
Did the brass era use the large 15/32" stems and screw the dust cover directly on the stem? If so, when did they start using the narrower 13/32" stem? When did they start using the adapter nut for the dust cover? I have some small diameter rim nuts that indicate there must have been some dust covers that were made to screw directly on to the narrow stems. When were these used? And then you got your bell bottom dust covers that use an adapter to go on the large stems. What are the OEM part numbers and dimensions? I would rather use original hardware than the reproduction. It seems a lot of threaded reproduction parts don't fit original parts very well. Unless things have changed in the last 25 years, my last go around with aftermarket stems meant using all aftermarket hardware to fit.
Randy,
Larry Smith is preparing an article about the valve hardware. If he doesn't see the posting you can send him a Private Message via his forum profile at:
http://www.mtfca.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-profile.cgi?action=view_profile&profil e=original_smith-users
Good luck and hopefully you will be able to add some additional photos or information to Larry's work.
Respectfully submitted,
Hap l9l5 cut off
Randall, I must have been typing when you were. You answered one question I had. I saw an ad in a 1911 Sears automotive catalog last night that showed one valve stem for 2 1/2" and 3" tires; and another for 3 1/2", 4", 4 1'2", 5" and 5 1/2" tires. No indication what the difference was.
So, evidently, to be correct, Model T's prior to 1920 had different valve hardware from front to rear. I would assume the 4 dust covers were the same and they used an adapter style rim nut on the front to make up for the narrower stem.
Sort of O/T, but does anyone make covers for rubber tubes/ stems that look like original dust covers for metal stems?
Bob, The Valve Stem covers (smooth sides) in the middle left of this pic,screw onto the rubber stems. You can usually find them at swap meets
My thoughts are that there were 2 diameters of stems. The smaller diameters were used on small cars, like the Model T. Larger diameter stems were on the larger cars like Dodges, Buick, etc, with demountable rims. The lengths varied according to how much distance you needed to traverse. If it was a 30 x 3-1/2 Buffalo non-demountable wire wheel, the stem was short. If it was a demountable wheel with a split rim that had a lock plate where the stem went through the rim, lock plate, fellow band, and wood fellow, it was longer. Our 1915 Oakland (Baker rims) uses these large diameter/longer stems. The 26-27 T wire wheels used a very long cap as can be seen in the original factory photos. Perhaps they were using the wood wheel stems (i.e. - longer) instead of a shorter stem. The longer cap would have allowed the use of the same tube/stem as used on a wood wheel. I think motorcycles used a very short stem. Bicycles may have even a brass stem.
Thanks, Donald!
My article should be coming out in the Model T Times soon. I emailed Jay, and he never replied, so I sent it to someone who is interested. It helps to know the year of the car you intend to use the valve stems on. One thing is for sure. The current vulcanized stuff is incorrect. The original valve stem parts can be found at swap meets. The threads on valve stems are NOT standard threads, and are unique to valve stems only. Don't use the large diameter valve stems. That is what they are vulcanizing to the tubes that are currently being made. If you want to throw your wheels out of balance, this is the way to do it! Find valve stems that are 2 3/4 to 3" in length. You don't need anything longer. Schrader 888, or 777 is what to look for. They are TR-16 and TR-3 respectfully. I would suggest using the knurled dust covers prior to 1917, and the same thing nickel plated thereafter at least until 1919, and then fluted, with hex felloe nuts. The earlier cars use a brass straight knurled round fellow nut. The bottom line is use the shortest valve stem possible. I have these on my cars, and they seem to hold air better than the rubber valve stems.
Snyders, Langs, Universal and Coker sell valve stem covers designed for rubber stemmed tubes.