Guys,
I've got a couple questions that I'm hoping one of the resident carb gurus can answer. I'm building two carburetors, one for my 1913 and the other for my son's 1926 speedster project but I'm unsure of a few things.
Forst question is about my 1913 carb. I've got a brass Kingston L2 which I know is not the correct unit for my car, but it's the closest thing I have on hand until I can afford the right one, and I'm unsure of which float valve (needle and seat) to order. Can anyone verify whether or not there is a replacement ball-type float valve available for this carb? The old seat is located down in a hole, and it's stuck tight, so I can't verify the thread pitch on it. I can get it out with a little heat and an easy-out but don't want to ruin it until I'm positive that there is a correct replacement available. Also, the heavy metal air flapper valve (lead, I assume?) is damaged and it looks like no reproductions are available. Is this correct?
My second question is about the Holley NH off of my son's car. It looks to be a standard NH but the throttle and choke blades are steel and retained by three upsets in the surface of the blade. All the catalogs show replacement blades to be brass and retained by two holes and a small stainless staple with the ears bent over. In looking through both Lang's and Snyder's catalogs, I see replacement blades for vaporizers which are retained by the three upsets, but I don't want to order them until I know if they are correct. I'm sure that I'm not the first guy to run into this, so any advice would be appreciated.
And to think, I used to think the variety of original Model A carburetors was confusing....
Thanks,
Deron
I think you can get the seat out by using a socket modified to the correct width and thickness to fit the seat. Place the carburetor in the freezer and let it soak, then quickly remove it and unscrew the seat.
Many times you can make the original needle and seat work by polishing the needle point in a drill press using fine emery paper, then placing the needle by in the seat and kissing it with a couple of taps of a light hammer.
I don't know about an L2 but on an L4 the thread is the same as that of a Rochester Quadrajet.
Why do you think you need to replace the NH throttle and choke blades? I don't think the gasoline will care whether they are steel or brass.
Thanks for the reply Ted.
In regards to the L2, the two slots on the float valve are damaged because the guy before me didn't have the proper size screwdriver, so no "socket modified to the correct width and thickness" will help. At this point the only way to remove it will be with an easy-out or a drill. I'm not worried about how to get it out because I'm perfectly capable of doing that, but I don't want to ruin it and then find out that no replacements are available. Plus, it's been my experience over the past 20 years of fooling with Model A's that the Gross-Jet style float valves are much more consistent and reliable. Maybe that's not the case with Model T's...
As for the NH carb, I didn't say that I needed to change the choke and throttle blades. I want to replace them. Mainly because they're very rusty and one is a bit bent. Yes, I realize that I can bead blast them, straighten them, etc... but if new ones are available it would be much more cost effective to just replace them. I'm also trying to understand exactly what I have and why none of the parts catalogs agree with what I have in my hands.
Deron
I just went and looked at some carbs to be sure about this. I have NH carburetors with both types of blades. This is pure speculation, but I would guess that they started with the wire clip type and then switched to the clipless type to save money.
Thanks Steve,
That's pretty much what I was thinking. I looked through mine and have four, but all of them have the "no hole" blades so I wasn't sure.
Deron
Deron,
Checkout out this post.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/287669.html
I've had dozens of NH carburetors apart, and have never seen one with steel choke and throttle plates. I like the ones that are held in with the wire. They are easier to rebuild.
I have the same NH you reference on my early 26 roadster. The car was very unmolested for 75+ years--so things are pretty much as they were from new. Had the same question if they are the same ones pictured for the vaporizer---it looks like that is the case. I was thinking of replacing mine simply because of corrosion...