I am getting my 11 open valve out and boy do I have some oil leaks at the lifters. I know that they are going to leak some but what is normal? I guess the only way to stop it from leaking is to stop putting oil in it. Any input would be helpful. Thanks, Dan.
The 11 I'm working on is the same way, it's not hard to figure out why Ford changed it. It makes a mess don't it?
That is why I am asking what is normal. I do not want to pull it and redo the lifer bushings only to find out that is the way they all are. I sure hope The EPA does not want to look at my engine when it is running. It would make the BP spill look like a cake walk. Dan.
I built a couple open valve engines with the lifter bores machined for a small O-ring in the top end. No more mess.
Erik
Erik: Tell more. What O ring did you use? How far from top was the ring. Anything else I might need to know. I may do that this winter. What mat did you use for the lifter bushings? Thanks, Dan.
Dan, did you replace the brass lifter bosses? Most don't and that is what accounts for excessive oil leaks. You can remove the old ones with a hammer and punch. You won't hurt the block. You can find new lifter bosses thru one of the modern auto parts houses. Just give them the dimensions you need and they can order them for you. Mine were a tad too long but it was easy shortening them on a lathe. I set my clearance at .002", any less is too close.
Couple of cautionary notes
Make sure the cam lobes will clear the underside of the bosses.
Ream after the new bosses are installed. The installation will mushroom the ends slightly.
Richard: I have not done anything to this engine. It is an older restored car. The engine was rebuilt when the car was restored, but I do not know what they did. I will drive the car for a season and may fix the oil leaks this winter. That was why i asking what other people have done, to find out what works and what does not. Thanks, Dan.
I have redone my '10 open valve engine twice in the past 35 years and find that after a few thousand miles the lifter bores leak oil no matter what you do. It looks like a lot more oil than it is however as I rarely need to add oil in between changes and that's usually around every 750 miles. I can just imagine the problems with those open block engines back in the day on those dusty dirt roads. On the bright side, there isn't one spec of rust on the undercarriage of my '10 from the gas tank forward!
Its a wonder that no one hasn't developed a cover of some description (similar to a rocker cover) with a thick rubber gasket and held in by a long bolt through the the other side between No 2 & 3 cylinders? I know of some people who aren't afraid of a fire using absorbant rag around the area
I'm yet to be subjected to this messy problem but its not too far away now!
Alan in Western Australia
Ron Brown owned the engines I built. He made new bronze liter guides and machined a groove in the top end leaving only about .030" above the O ring, just enough to retain it. The rings were selected from the parts store progressive size collection. Several trial cuts are made on the first guide until the fit is correct. This can be done without removal from the lathe. The rest are then cut to the same setting.
Fordially, Erik
Installing o-Rings is the best solution. However, just adding grooves inside the top of the bushings works wonders. The groove acts as a dam and prevents the oil from running out.
I use a diaper under my car to catch those "little" leaks. The diaper prevents Model T "tracks" (to a degree) but the oil caught is blown out when under way. My thinking is that if there's not a little oil showing the lifters may not be getting lubed. (But what do I know, both of my T's have a cover.)
What a worthless post that was.
Valve covers for open valve engines were available in 1910:
Oh yea, those will stop the leaks.
Does anybody have pictures of those cover plate/ oil pumps driven off one of the push rods?
Thanks,
Stephen
OK. I have a couple questions: #1 is anyone reproducing this part? #2 Now is there anyone interested in having this part reproduced for their car anyway? It's an easy part to remove and replace on an open valve engine if you were to show it as an original but with it installed again will save the oil spray inside the compartment during a drive. I can get an original to reproduce this item from but hate to ride another dead horse if there's no interest. Thanks, Bob
Bob, there would be a limited market for this item as a lot of the early open valve engines do not get driven much. Also the open valves give the engine that early look that the cover would hide???
I would sooner add the O ring than the cover.
Interesting discussion. I have a couple things to add. My 1910 had modern rubber valve seals that slip over the brass lifter guides when I got the car. They work very well and did not leak a drop of oil for the thousands of miles I drove the car. They can be added very easily and without any machining. I just did a partial engine rebuild and replaced them. I believe they are from a 351 Cleveland. I can double check my notes and post photos tomorrow. The worst part is that they are visible where an o-ring inside the lifter guide would not.
I reproduced several sets of the valve covers a few years ago. They are designed to keep the some of dust out and not keep the oil in. They are not a tight fit. They are simple to install, but do require removing the intake manifold.
I hope this helps,
Chris Paulsen
McPherson, KS
I would be interested to investigate the cost to produce a set of side covers for my open valve engine but the later style rubber seals also sound very interesting
Alan in Western Australia
Dan,
Bring me that old 1911 oil slinger and we trade you two T's that don't sling any oil at all, may drip some though....
I sure hate to see a fellow have to clean up an oily mess every time he drives his T, hey I'm just trying to help you out.... :- /
Gee thanks Steve and you are so close. I could come and visit it too couldn't I? Dan.
You could come back anytime to see it, I would even let you drive it from time to time....;-) I would be stuck whipping all that petroleum off the engine, frame, axle, ect.... you wouldn't have to worry about it, you could drive it and leave the mess.
Chris are you still making them? I have no interest in getting into casting these if you are still reproducing them now. Since this is another limited market.
I figured I could reproduce this casting as a completed set with the added hardware and finished for around $50. Bob