I know a lot of us have the Model T lubrication chart (the one with the picture of Model A keys on it). It includes oiling the brake lever bracket, but doesn't mention the ratchet and its linkage. Those need to be oiled too, or the spring won't make the pawl click into the notches. You can guess how I know this.
Steve - Good point! I have to admit, I never gave any thought to lubricating the ratchet, but it certainly makes sense. I have seen ratchets where the teeth are completely worn out, and, even more commonly, I have seen, and had occasion to sharpen a rounded off (from wear) pawl with a file. It only makes sense that lubrication would certainly reduce such wear.
I have to say that I'm sure I'm not the only one that hasn't considered lubrication of the ratchet, because I can't recall ever seeing one with oil or grease on it!
Next time I go down to my little shop, I'm going to take a look at my lube chart and see what it shows,.....thanks Steve,....harold
Actually Steve, not to throw you thread off track, but I make a habit of squeezing the handle on the hand brake lever BEFORE I pull the brake lever rearward to set the brake. While it's kinda' nice to hear the rapid clicking of the pawl on the ratchet, I think that holding the pawl off of the ratchet until the brake lever is all the way back eliminates most of the wear of both the ratchet and the pawl. But a lot of times, I know that I don't hold the pawl off of the ratchet for quite the whole travel distance of the lever until the brakes are set, so there is still some wear at the most critical part of the ratchet.
I think that I'm going to use some of that "sticky" boat trailer wheel bearing grease on the quadrant with each grease job from now on! Thanks again Steve!
Thanks for the information.
Orlando
I also like to put a little grease on the clutch release cam when band adjustments are necessary.
Stephen
What drew my attention to this, of course, was the pawl failing to catch. Oiling the teeth isn't enough. You also need to do all the pivots, at the top of the linkage and at the pawl.
Stephen, I do that too. I have a pretty good groove worn in the cam from years of use. I've often thought about fabricating a small roller on the end of the adjustment bolt. I think the very early Ford products had one.
A drop of oil or two on just about any moving part probably wouldn't hurt a thing.
While we on the topic of the brake lever and pawl I want to tell about my recent CLOSE CALL.
Stopped at the gas station for gas. Parked right in front of the T was a brand new paper plates BWM sedan, Not the cheap one. I checked the spark lever and cranked it up as usual. When I stepped on the running board to get in the car jumped in gear and Luckily it KILLED with a couple of inches to Spare.
I don't need to tell you how scared I felt right after that..
Lucky Day
Here's a good & cheap accessory - an extra spring available from the vendors, helping the standard pawl spring keeping it in contact with the ratchet: http://www.modeltford.com/item/3463R.aspx
I installed the extra spring. Just a coil tension spring from the hardware store attached with the traditional Ford repair kit (baling wire). Works great.
I would oil the pin that holds the pawl on, but not the teeth, and I always squeeze the handbrake when pulling back too, so I don't wear out the teeth.
Great info., good to know all opinions. I have a question, can the ratchet teeth be reformed with a dremel? I want to try to reform them with out taking it off the car but don't want to do more work than if it was removed. Has anyone done this? Thanks for any help. I don't want to remodel a BMW as Gene almost did.
Nick
Nick, it may be possible to repair the teeth with a hack saw blade or a small file. The best option would be to replace the ratchet/quadrant. I have replaced one before on a friend's roadster, but it was very difficult.
Stephen