27 Radiator assemble ?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: 27 Radiator assemble ?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Fretschl Oshkosh Wi on Sunday, May 13, 2012 - 09:20 am:

I knew when I disassembled my radiator to remove the motor that at one point it had been put back together incorrectly. Following the drawing from the Feb.18,2011 posting, it seems that the two ended threaded bolt is to short. Is the trick to push it up, and compress the bottom spring? Seems like it's going to be really compressed to make it work.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Hatch on Sunday, May 13, 2012 - 10:13 am:

Check and see how far the stud (two ended bolt) is in the threaded plate on the bottom. They sometimes can go in too far. Dan.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick on Sunday, May 13, 2012 - 10:40 am:

When you put in the studs, put in the cotter key in the hole, install the lower spring under the upper channel leg and bottom out the lower washer nut against the cotter key and put a block under the studs to keep them as high as possible. Assemble as per drawing. The studs will be tight and you need to push down hard on the radiator to compress the springs to expose enough threads to get the upper castle nut started. Once you get the nuts started you are home free, Simply tighten them until you can get a cotter key in the stud hole. Jim Patrick




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Fretschl Oshkosh Wi on Sunday, May 13, 2012 - 11:01 am:

Thanks Jim backing the stud out till the washer nut hits the cotter pin, seems like it will give me a lot more space to work with. John


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick on Sunday, May 13, 2012 - 11:21 am:

Yes John, That is what I had to do on my '26 coupe. Like you, at first I thought they sent me the wrong studs. Make sure the block is tight under the studs. You may want to get some wood wedges to drive under the block to compress the lower spring as much as possible, to prevent you having to excessively press down on the radiator to compress the upper spring. Keep us posted. Good luck. Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Fretschl Oshkosh Wi on Sunday, May 13, 2012 - 12:02 pm:

Will do Jim, I'll give you an up date. Thanks again. John


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry Ostbye on Sunday, May 13, 2012 - 02:12 pm:

I had the same problem on my car. Still do I guess. I put a second set in and ended up leaving the bottom cotter pin out and putting lock tight on it. I asked a few guys about the problem with no luck in a real answer. Something that has been on my mind is what is the correct thicknes of the wood supposed to be ??? It seems like that might be my problem. Maybe it is John's too. ??


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Fretschl Oshkosh Wi on Sunday, May 13, 2012 - 06:49 pm:

Got it on. Used Jim's trick with a wood block wedged under the bottom spring block. I'd like to know how in the hell they could do it so fast at the factory?????? It still was a S O B.. Hope I don't have to do that again for a long time.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick on Sunday, May 13, 2012 - 07:09 pm:

Congratulations! It's hard to get on, but I guess its' good its' not too loose. Even as tight as it seems, once its' on, you still have alot of good spring flex action. Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Sunday, May 13, 2012 - 07:10 pm:

I put a new radiator on my truck several months ago. I had forgotten it didn't have an apron, but with the new radiator, it was obvious, so I bought a repro apron. I painted it and hung it on the wall for months dreading taking those nuts off. I finally installed it last week. One side was no problem. The other, I was able to pry up with a pry bar enough to get the nut started. You can bet I didn't disturb that first side any more than necessary.


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