I'm trying to determine if my ring gear should be replaced now that I have the rear end torn apart. The upper portion of the inner teeth are beveled all the way around and I'm wondering if this is normal. I noticed this picture submitted on an earlier post because it showed the same type of bevel I'm talking about. Does this bevel indicate worn teeth or is just the way the ring gear was manufactured? Many thanks in advance.
I'm no machinist Tom, but the one bevel that you have circled that shows clearly in the photo certainly looks like it has machining marks on it; which I would think would indicate that the bevel was made by the original machining process, not from wear. Just my opinion, which probably isn't worth much,.....harold
Actually Tom, I think I'd be more concerned by the fact that it appears that the edge of the pinion gear teeth are very close, in fact, possibly clipping the protruding edge of the cap screws that hold the ring gear on. However, I would think if the gears have been running quietly, that must not be a problem at this point either; again, just my unqualified opinion,......harold
The teeth on the Ring and Pinion are beveled from the factory as shown in the picture you posted. The bevel is machined and not a result of wear. The wear to be concerned about is "Face" of the teeth where the gears mesh together.
As Harold mentioned, I would also be concerned with how close the pinion gear teeth appear to be Ring gear cap screws (bolts). It looks as if the Pinion gear is hitting these bolts which could cause some real damage if it remains uncorrected.
It's common for the pinion to touch some of the bolts on a 39 tooth ring gear. On a 40 tooth standard they are spaced in line with the teeth and can't touch the pinion.
Thanks for the info guys......my questions have been answered!
Thanks Steve! ..I learned something new today
Gear teeth don't wear on the ends. They were made that way. Looks like you need to put a bevel on your pinion. We do that on the 12 and 13 tooth pinions so they won't hit the ring gear bolts as shown in your picture. Its easy to do. Simply grind off the toes of the teeth on a belt sander until they have clearance.
I put the pinion gear on a stub driveshaft, stick in the lathe and take my flap disk sander to it. Keeps everything nice looking and grinding the profile is much easier with it turning than trying to do it on a bench, in the vise, etc. Yes, I cover the ways and the wearing parts of the lathe that could be damaged by dust and dross.
Glen
Would you consider the pinion depth on the photo correct or should it be moved out somewhat with shims between the pinion spool and the diff housing? Looks a little to deep?
Thanks Alan in Western Australia
I only wish that I had taken a picture to save of the 4 to 1 ring and pinion gear that my Dad and I took out of my Grandfather's 27 coupe back in the sixties. Man, you talk about wear, its a wonder the teeth engaged. I haven't ever seen a set worn as bad in the last 45 years.
Isn't that one of the ring and pinions that were made improperly a few years ago with the ring gear bolt circle in the wrong radial place?
Ron the Coilman
Original std. Ford ring gear, note the cap screw holes at the base of the tooth.
Repro std. Ford ring gear, not made like Ford, as the cap screw holes are in the tooth gap, makes it necessary to clip the pinion edge or take care on install to not let the pinion gear get too deep.