Ruckstell oil?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Ruckstell oil?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bernard Paulsen, San Buenaventura, Calif on Monday, May 21, 2012 - 07:05 pm:

First oil change on the Ruckstell. I used the search function but didn't get anywhere. I also have the Ruckstell Axle Lubrication Adjustment and Care manual, but that doesn't help me either.

My question: what's the best oil for the Ruckstell in the year 2012?

Related question: the manual speaks about a pint filling and then again about a quart. I understand that I have to drain it thoroughly before filling it until it runs out, but what is the exact filling amount, a pint or a quart?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Eric Dysart - SoCal on Monday, May 21, 2012 - 08:29 pm:

Stan Howe just told me to use 85w/140 oil in my freshly rebuilt Ruckstell. He said to add 1 pint before the axle is installed, then tilt the axle on one end to get some oil to all the axle bearings on that side, then tilt it up on the other end for the other side. Install the axle assembly on the car and add oil (he didn't say how much) until up to normal operating level.

If the axle wasn't just put together dry, you can probably skip the first pint and tipping part of the process.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bernard Paulsen, San Buenaventura, Calif on Monday, May 21, 2012 - 09:28 pm:

Freaking out!

Just put a pan under the rear end, opened the drain plug of the Ruckstell, and . . . nothing comes out!

Poked a bent screw driver in there and all I get back is some tar-like residue.



Now, I shifted that thing all weekend without problems, so the 'glass-half-full' guy in me hopes that the remaining whatever-it-is lubricated everything enough to prevent destruction, but now I want to flush the goo out there, and I would ask for your suggestions short of the "you should pull the rear end, take it completely apart, and check everything" advice.

What I would like to solicit is suggestions on what to use to get this cleaned up. Should I boil some thin oil, fill it in, let it sit a day or two, then slowly move the wheels 180 degrees and let it sit another day? Should I try Kerosine?

Tell me, please!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Eric Dysart - SoCal on Monday, May 21, 2012 - 10:04 pm:

Just a quick story from a few decades ago. My sister had an old VW while she lived in the desert for a few years. She moved back into town and I offered to change the oil in her car (I was into VWs back then). She dropped the car off at my place and borrowed my car. The next morning I went to drain the oil. I pulled the drain plug (on the bottom of the engine) and a slow bulge of tar-like substance formed at the hole. I thought that maybe this was a lump of goo trapping the oil in the engine so I set a drain pan under the car and went back inside. 40 minutes later, a thread had formed from the engine down into the drain pan and a puddle about 3 inches in diameter had formed in the pan at the bottom of the thread. I put the drain plug back in and drove the car around the neighborhood for about 10 minutes to warm the car up. This time, the "oil" came out as a lumpy liquid. After an hour of draining, I replaced the plug, adjusted the valves and the timing and put in new oil. It went black fairly quick, but it looked and acted a lot more like oil on the dipstick after a drive around the block. My sister said that the car felt "much peppier" for quite some time. I never touched that car again....

Now, back to your T. You said that the car ran and shifted just fine (my sister's car seemed to run OK too). I would suggest driving the car to warm up the axle, maybe even add a little 85w/140 to dilute your current "lube". After the axle is warmed up, try draining it again. You should get better results. Once empty(er), fill with new oil, drive a bit and check your level and condition. You might want to do another change after a hundred miles or so, to clear out the rest of the thick stuff.

Anyway, that's what I would do if I wasn't going to open the whole thing up. I certainly didn't want to go deeper into my sister's car...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Putnam, Bluffton, Ohio on Monday, May 21, 2012 - 10:17 pm:

looks like the original 600 wt oil.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Tuesday, May 22, 2012 - 02:00 pm:

I would fill it with about 40 wt engine oil. Drive about a mile or two at 20mph and less. Then drain it. Fill with 90/140 gear oil. Drive it again, a little more. Drain it again. Fill it again. Compared to a Ruckstell, oil is cheap. As long as the Ruckstell continues to work well, call it good. But check the oil level occasionally.
They used to fill and rinse with kerosene. But kerosene is thinner today. And engine oil mixes better with the new grease.
I agree, that old stuff looks like the old 600w.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan B on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 06:11 am:

Just to be clear, my understanding is that you should be able to remove the fill plug and the oil should be right up to the inside lip. Is this correct?

I seem to recall using a 90W that I got at tractor supply, but it was several years ago now that I originally filled it up. Noticing some leakage around the drive shaft seal so I should probably check the level again.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 06:48 am:

Dan,

That is fine if your Ruckstell is built using a 1918 - 27 RH half.

If your Ruckstell is like both of mine and has a 1915 - 17 RH half then you fill to about an inch below the filler hole.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan B on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 08:44 am:

Royce - Yes, I should have specified. I have a large drum '26-27 Ruckstell. Thanks!


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