Painted Engine Blocks

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Painted Engine Blocks
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Darin Hull on Wednesday, May 23, 2012 - 05:30 pm:

I was considering painting the T's engine. Does anyone have a picture of how they painted their engine? I'd like to see what the finished product looks like.

Darin


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Herb Spies - Ft. Walton Bch,FL on Wednesday, May 23, 2012 - 06:28 pm:

Here's mine:


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike D, Williamsburg VA on Wednesday, May 23, 2012 - 07:29 pm:

And Here's Mine..1926 Roadster Pickup


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Wednesday, May 23, 2012 - 07:41 pm:

Folks use all sorts of fanciful colors, and even clear coat. Ford used Gilsonite, a dull black. I use black Rustoleum with a satin finish.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jason Gauthier on Wednesday, May 23, 2012 - 07:58 pm:

How long does the rustoleum last on the engine? Does it flake off with heat?

Jason


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Carnegie on Wednesday, May 23, 2012 - 10:10 pm:

j


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Wednesday, May 23, 2012 - 10:28 pm:

Semi-Gloss engine enamel on block and head and pan, Gloss engine enamel on valve covers, intake manifold, fan blades, and other parts, some natural (cast blast enamel) for highlights. Hi-temp 1200 degree gray exhaust manifold paint.




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Woods, Katy, Texas on Wednesday, May 23, 2012 - 10:52 pm:

I wouldn't advise Rust Oleum. My Dad and I used Rust Oleum black over Rust Oleum red primer back in the 60's and I don't think it took five years to start pealing and flaking from the heat on the head and the block. Use a high temperature paint if not a product like Cast Blast.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Wednesday, May 23, 2012 - 11:44 pm:

The Rustoleum on that head is only three years old, but it's OK so far. I bake it on at 180º to 250º (no primer). Most of the engine won't get that hot, but I wouldn't use if on the exhaust manifold.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Aaron Griffey, Hayward Ca. on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 12:33 am:

If you use a primer on the engine and then spray over it with enamel you are gonna get peeling in a few years, if not sooner..
Engine paint is colored primer.
Spray or brush it right over bare, clean dry metal. Give it the next coat after 14 minutes but not longer than 15.
If you can't do 2 or 3 coats in the first hour wait 24 hours before another coat. no longer than 32.
Rustoleum now has engine paint.
It is tricky to use though, you gotta keep back a foot and keep moving or it goes on too thick & runs.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A. Golden on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 08:16 am:

I got this information off this forum a few years ago and saved it.

ENGINE PAINTING

1927

In Walter T. Fishleigh's files in Accession 94 at the Ford Archives there is a memo dated July 26, 1926 entitled: “Finish For Model T Motors”. It lists the finish to be put on each of the exposed parts of the motor.

Black Pyroxlylin used on:
1. Transmission Cover
2. Starter Motor
3. Generator
4. Crankcase
5. Commutator

Black Graphite Paint used on:
1. Exhaust Manifold and Carburetor

Black Enamel used on:
1. Breather Cap
2. Commutator Retainer Spring
3. Manifold Clamps

Nickel Plate used on:
1. Cylinder Head Cap Screws
2. Spark Plug caps and Thumb Nuts
3. Spark Plug Wire Terminals
4. Coil Box Terminal Bolts and Nuts
5. Water Connection Cap Screws
6. Manifold Cap Screws
7. Cylinder Valve Cover Bolts

Moleskin Pyroxylin used on:
1. Cylinder Block
2. Cylinder Head
3. Generator Bracket
4. Front Cover
5. Air Intake and Manifold

Bright Zinc Plate used on:
1. Cutout Cover

(signed) C. W. Avery


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 11:54 am:

I did my block timing cover and head in Ford Model A green with the hogs head, pan, valve covers, starter, gen and carb in black. The intake is Dove gray, the exhaust it rust and rebuilt water pump:-)is Oliver green.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 12:25 pm:

In some eyes it may not be correct, but my wife likes it...which means it's correct. LOL.

The primed bolt heads are now painted gloss black and are no longer red. Next time I take off the intake manifold I will probably paint that gloss black as I think it would look better. The block is Ford (High Temp) Engine Gloss Green from Snyders. The High temp Gloss Black is from any Auto Parts Store and the black High temp manifold paint is from "Eastwood". They also have silver manifold paint but I felt that was a little too high falootin fer a T injun. Jim Patrick






Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Clayton Paddison, Portland Oregon on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 12:26 pm:

I went "Old Ford Red" on mine...fits a little better then the stock green or black don't ya think?




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 12:37 pm:

On this '27 engine used Ford Tractor Gray, and some red for highlights :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Olivier CHABANNE on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 03:22 pm:

Bonjour,

In my 1924 I used black gloss.

Olivier


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Darin Hull on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 04:17 pm:

Those are some beautiful engines! Thanks for sharing.

Darin


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Vince M on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 04:37 pm:

Would love to see one all chromed out.

Vince M


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Patrick Martin on Thursday, May 24, 2012 - 07:54 pm:

I used some Cast Blast engine colors from POR-15. Used a heat gun to cure each part after assembly.



Looks real nice now with brass water pipe and black fan.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter Kable on Friday, May 25, 2012 - 01:24 am:

Whatever color or type of paint you use try and keep the number of coats down. If its thin the heat will be able to get away from the engine and will stay there. Add primer and overdo the coats of color and the coating of paint ( which is just a coating of a plastic ) will act like an insulator and the heat will be captured in the coating unable to get away and if hot enough will blister and peel. Engine enamels are usually very thin in viscosity because of this.


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