Installed new Cartouche Upholstery Today

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Installed new Cartouche Upholstery Today
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike_black on Saturday, May 26, 2012 - 09:59 pm:

I got the seat back kits installed in the front and rear seats of my 15 touring today! Instructions weren't the best, but, if you can build most everything else on a T, you can figure it out. Front seemed to fit better with less trimming than the rear. Some minor wrinkling low in the corners, (don't know if it's their patterns or my aching back) but, I'm satisfied with it. The body is off the frame with the floorboards out and I sat it in the floor on 2x4s with concrete blocks under them to allow me to step in and out of the holes where the floors weren't. I made a stab at a cushion before I quit, but, looks like they'll be a lot easier to stretch over the springs with my helper on Monday. I plan on leaving the body right there to install the top--seems like it would be easier than using step ladders. This is my first attempt at an open car top so, any advice is appreciated. I saw in one of the old FORUM posts someone had strings run everywhere to hold the bows in place. That seems like a good idea. Best advice I can offer on the upholstery is use an air stapler and common sense--it's not hard, it just takes some time. I even thought of taking pictures, but the camera was at the house and it was after 8:00 P.M.!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George_Cherry Hill NJ on Saturday, May 26, 2012 - 10:29 pm:

Mike...

The bows MUST be in the exact right position at all times before you even pull open the box of top material. There should be a drawing somewhere exactly for the style bows you have.

Hog tie them...or use 20 rolls of duct tape...or slice 2x2 as back bow permanent braces until done and 1x criss-crossed slat to everything else. Doesn't really matter what, just can't move from true position.

Do a search because I honestly don't remember who posted it...but my tops always needed a top restretch after a few years just because I wanted that taunt look...and they said my mistake was that I also set the front bow tight with blocks on windshield. Hog tie everything else, leave that float they said where it wants to and then when stretching the top center out, just pull until it wants to lift...and no more...and then there is always enough pull left in the front hold down straps to keep it tight initially and also adjust one time later. Haven't had a chance to try yet, but thats the plan for the next one.

By having everything trussed up, especially when it comes to the back bow (I do use 2x2 in the back) and back curtain, you can get a good stretch on the curtain without moving the bow or adding extra stretch to the top. I always do the bottom of the skirt last, and only 1/2 'in' tack it until I'm happy is don't have stretch pulls and if a small wave, tack out easy, tug and retack. Happy with everything? Only then send them all home.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Thomas Mullin on Saturday, May 26, 2012 - 11:02 pm:

This might be the diagram George is talking about.

top diagram


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron Dupree on Sunday, May 27, 2012 - 11:12 am:

Absolutely use a combination of scrap lumber, baling wire, twine, duct tape, and sky hooks to hold the bows in position until the straps and bow pads are all in their correct position. THEN remove the bracing and install the top material. Make sure you know how the front header material ( the strip across the front that comes down over the top of the windshield to hold the rain out) installs before installing any of the top material. There is more than one style of header, and they go on differently.

Ron Dupree


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike_black on Sunday, May 27, 2012 - 05:55 pm:

Thanks folks. One more question. The drawing above (2-man top)from "The Model T Fordowner" shows the top of the rear bow 2 5/8 inches behind the back of the car. The instructions that came with the top say for 15-22 (which would be a 2-man top), the rear bow should be even with the back of the car and 2 inches behind for a 23-27. What say ya'll?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By William L Vanderburg on Sunday, May 27, 2012 - 06:53 pm:

I'd go with the dimensions given above.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Sunday, May 27, 2012 - 10:29 pm:

The tops don't look right if they're not behind the top of the tub.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike_black on Sunday, May 27, 2012 - 11:57 pm:

I guess I'll start with some measurements of the actual top and compare them with the drawing above. I don't want to lean the rear bow back too far then find out the top don't reach the windshield, or, stand it up too straight and find out the back of the top don't reach down to the tack strip! Thanks for the input.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Vance Naumann on Monday, May 28, 2012 - 12:02 am:

Good information. I am in the middle of a top install also, so this is a good timely post for me. I have another question, the measurements for the bow heights on the "working drawing" (shown in this post) ... Are the bow height measurements made at the center of the bow or at line "A" (which is 19" from center)? Thanks.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike_black on Monday, May 28, 2012 - 12:16 am:

I'm guessing Line "A" to avoid the curve of the bows.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Les Sumner lapeer mi on Monday, May 28, 2012 - 07:50 am:

Mike, Depending on the strightness of your chassis and the condition of the wood structure in the body, I would suggest waiting to pull the top tight until after the body is installed on the chassis and doors installed. A little to tight and the doors won't fit. Don't ask how I know this. Les Sumner


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dick Fischer on Monday, May 28, 2012 - 01:20 pm:

The Working Drawing that Tom Mullin posted looks like it would be indispensable when installing a new top. Does anyone know what year would be applicable for this drawing? My particular interest is for a '12.

Dick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Cascisa - Poulsbo, Washington on Monday, May 28, 2012 - 01:47 pm:

I used that drawing for my '15. It worked out just fine.

Be_Zero_Be


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ron Dupree on Monday, May 28, 2012 - 05:34 pm:

That drawing is from 'The Model T FordOwner' by Murray Fahnestock. The book is a compilation of articles that Murray wrote for 'Ford Dealer and Owner' magazine when the Model T was new. The article on tops was written in February of 1922, and would be directly applicable for 1915 and newer cars with two man tops. For other years, take a look at the details. Two of the top bows are vertical. The front bow is just ahead of the windshield, and hangs down, so that the top itself is just above the top of the windshield frame, and the rear bow is about 2 1/2 inches BEHIND the back edge of the rear sheet metal.

By the way, Murray's book is available from the parts suppliers, and is a valuable addition to your library for both vehicle maintenance as well as restoration ideas.

Ron Dupree


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