I am not sure if these are original laurel brackets but they are certainly the same idea. I need to extend the hand crank since right now if the car backfired with the hand crank engaged it would hit the top of the front axle. anyone ever done this before or am i heading out on uncharted waters? I did search by the way see... i am learning!
thanks a TON!
Nathan
That's covered in 'Fast Ford Handbook' by M. Fahnestock.
Did the same years back to my little speedster with the axle moved out front, taper end of shank of crank and weld on 4" more shaft, used an old worn one to weld with.
I needed a longer crank to clear the windsplitter radiator on the Speedster. A brazed extension broke. I found same diameter crank, but longer, at a swapmeet, cut it to length, and mounted the T ratchet on it. Watch tbay?
i was thinking that perhaps a section of pipe may solve my ailments.. any thoughts on that?
Take two cranks and make one the needed length. grind both pieces to a point, clamp in a angle irn and elec weld then grind smooth.
Better yet, get a piece of CRS the correct diameter and make one the correct length. all it takes is a bit of heat from an acetylene torch and the properly placed bends. I made a crank for my 1905 Northern two years ago, works great.
Three of my old speedsters, I found non-Ford longer crank handles. They are not rare (although one of them was a neat looking cast handle. I have never seen another one like it). Two of those cars, I put added support for the hand crank attached to the front end supports. The crank is less likely to bend that way.
Unfortunately, I don't have a photo of my current car showing the crank handle. It is a standard T crank bent forward from the pan then back to level for the handle. This car also has Laurel type brackets. The crank just touches the front axle sometimes when I crank it. But it seems to work just fine. So maybe that would work for you?
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2