Eventually you run out of adjustment and have to install new bands. There's a lot of information and advice on how, but I haven't found any published guidance on when to do it. Comments?
I guess looking at the ends of the bands would give you a clue to how thick they are. I personally would rather replace the bands before I run out of adjustment to prevent the rivets from being able to contact the drum. What car do you need new bands in?
Stephen
The day before you find a drum gouged. How about that?
I have replaced a number of original cotton bands when the ends of the strap gets close to the drum, perhaps 1/16 inch thick or so. I think that with care they would have gone quite a few more miles, but the drums were pristine and I didn't want to risk it.
I've not driven a car long enough with Kevlar to need to change them. Regardless, I know I used brass rivets and I know how deep I have them clinched, so would change them in the future prior to them starting to wear so far as to have the "ears" come off. If you wait that long with brass plated steel rivets (and I've seen plenty of those) then you will have gouged the drum by then if you let them go.
The problem is that you don't know how round the bands are when last installed, and I've even seen bands that looked good at the ends, but were tissue thin at the bottom of the transmission (center of the band). You won't know that until you remove them.
Of course, it will become obvious if you simply lose low gear one day. A friend just woke up a T after a 60 year nap and got about 30 feet with it and that was it. The bands were sloughing off (you could shove your finger through them and tear them cross-wise).
Steve, often times I know I'm on my last adjustment when the pedal starts to stick alittle. or as I was told once, don't worry about brake band, start to worry when you can't adjust the reverse band anymore (very bad as reverse is a thin cast drum and will crack)
Steve,
Now thats a good question! I've never thought about it.
I've never run to a gouge and had to stop and think exactly when and why I've done band changes. My own answer is I am the village idyut and spend 3x more time getting them set in the first place than most, but I insist they are round no matter whats on them before even starting, and whether going thru door or not never spring them (that adds at least and hour and a half...lol), and then willing to walk them in no mater what is on them 3 to 4 times if necessary that same day...
So I then only worry about them if I get a squishy, never just do a double check. Get a squishy, 1/2 -1 turn good to go for months. But start to do 1/2 -1 turn in monthly time to think for band change. Never paid too much attention what they look like when coming out.
Now here is the kicker...I got lazy on a set in the '15 last year...normal way, it needed a turn, was firm, and end of day was 'down' on brake. Ahhh...'15 maybe should think of new springs and nuts next time as this one turns mighty easy, in fact, these may even be original springs and nuts, probably just backing off maybe...
Two minute drill for the rest of summer, pop lid, take a turn even if hot...lid on and go.......last outing of the year...hello...where did brake go?
pop lid...maybe 1/4" is missing of the Scandie liner on pedal side. Hmmm...nurse it home...pop it again, now 1/2" is gone! Still decent thickness...it had started to unravel, and apparently each brake apply just had it unravel more!
Haven't done it yet, been playing with the others in the stable and with others cars....but woodies going back in just because they were on the top of the pile in the stash. I'm an equal user, user...lol.
Stephen, it's the touring. I noticed this morning that the brake pedal is starting to touch the floorboard. It may only need adjustment, but I'm going to take a look inside.