Hi everyone,
I've been summing up whether it's worth trying using a new (LHD only) NH throttle lever/shaft from the vendors for the (new) shaft only, and fitting an old RHD arm to it to make it work for my RHD T. I see on previous postings that some have soldered a RHD arm to a new shaft, but has anyone tried to open up the peen on the shaft to remove the LHD arm and re-peen it to a RHD arm ? It doesn't really look like there is enough brass there to do it, so I dunno about the chances... but I thought I would ask ! Perhaps we should suggest the vendors could look into producing the shaft only so us RHD blokes could fit our own RHD arms for our carbs ? Or does anyone do so already ? Comments ?
Also see: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/263973.html?1328312728
Regards,
Bede
Bede, I solder mine too.[Note, I do not sodder them]
I am not sure whether the flats which locate the arm in the correct relationship to the plate slot are the same on RHD and LHD. If they are then just a plain shaft may work.
Allan from down under.
G'day Alan,
I might take apart an old an old assembly I have here this evening and the new (LHD) one I just got from Langs- hence me starting this thread- yes, it's obvious I never thought of this- dodo !
It sacrifices a new $13.25USD, that's about $17NZD, plus postage, lever, but it's all in the name of research !
Regards,
Bede
Bede, I haven't tried it, but after you switch the arms if there isn't enough material left to re pein it, what about drilling and tapping the shaft for a small screw to retain the arm? Just a thought. Dave
If the pin hole is off peen the lever on anyway then heat the shaft and twist it.
Nothing to it.......
In NZ it is not possible to drill and tap the shaft for a small screw because small taps and screws are unobtainable for some reason.
I'm still at a loss as to how "Solder" is twisted to "Sodder", when you buy a length/roll of Solder you then Sodder with it ???
Can anyone explain that ?
David.
I'm with you in bewilderment David. Even spell check doesn't recognise sodder. If the weather gets colder, you keep papers in a folder, and a runner becomes a record holder, how come solder becomes sodder. I thought it was a regional thing among friends in Spokane, but then I heard Jim Patterson using it in his excellent set of coil re-building DVD's. It's got me beat!
Allan from down under.
Hmmmmmm !! the fun part about the not so english language .
I thought l'd check a few "how to solder" sites and l can find one mention of "sodder".
www.kpsec.freeuk.com/solder.htm
dol.gov/wb/factsheets/nontra2008.htm
then l found this one explaining the pains involved with using the letter L
www.ultimate-guitar.com/forum/archive/index.php?t-763590.html
I guess there is something to this word that makes it hard to pronounce.
David.
Gidday guys,
I sacrificed my new throttle shaft/lever as it is no use currently anyway, and as Alan predicted, the shaft is the same for both the (new) LHD and (old) RHD, the butterfly slot lines up with the flats on the top of the shaft on both. It's just the lever on top that is different. That's great because I might send some emails to see if us Canadian/RHD blokes can just buy the shafts separately and un-peened, so we could fit them to our original RHD levers, and peen them like new.
Tonight, I might try refixing the old lever to the new shaft... I do have 5/32 brass machine screws and a tap which might not come up too bad, and at work I know there is some 1/8th brass floating around, but then again Top Gear is on tonight...
I don't think I'll sodder it either. I noticed that in Ron's coil videos too !
Regards,
Bede
Whoops,
dopey forgot to post the picture.
Regards,
Bede
Bede, it looks as if you are on your way to a good fix, however for future reference try a hobby shop for small size taps and machine screws. R.C. Model aircraft use some,(usually U.S. sizes) but model railways use even smaller ones.
I used to stock taps and screws in my shop from 4 BA right down to 12 BA size.
Hi everyone,
just letting you know it was no problem at all to drill and tap a 5/32 machine screw into the new shaft to hold the lever on.
Dane, good idea to try a model shop, luckily I had the gear to do the job above here, but there's no way you can find equipment to do this sort of thing at Supercheap Auto or Repco, which without going to a specialist engineering tools supplier ($$$), is about the only automotive options us ANZAC's have !
Regards,
Bede
Bede,that's a nice job. You could even file most of the head of the screw off and it would almost look original.
On one of mine I cut off the LHD arm and mig welded it back on in the correct alignment for RHD. Saved upsetting the rivetted end of the shaft.
Allan from down under.