This is what it looked like when I got home from the Shandon Strawberry Festival.
I'm thinking there is some maintenance to do here?
The other side is dry.
Can I just fix it from the end, or is it time for a full rear axle rebuild?
You should be able to remove the wheel, axle seal, and the axle bearing. Then install one of the modern grease seals like this:
http://www.modeltford.com/item/2511AS.aspx
Talk to the guys at Ron's Machine shop, they usually keep them in stock and can offer advice on installation too.
One other thing, be sure that you are not over filling the axle with grease.
Check to see if your axle will go in and out, if so, you may have had a babbitted thrust washer fall apart. Grease would come out on the drum like that (Trust me I know, been there done that).
Scott
i put in new modern axle seals and they still leak like that. Not sure why, Maybe i did it wrong? Maybe i put in too much grease? Not sure how much is too much.
I think Mr. Grant is on the right track. That looks like oil from the pumpkin, not grease from the bearing. If you don't know for sure that the rear axle has been rebuilt with new bronze thrust washers, it's time to pull it off the car and do the job. While you're at it you can install the neoprene seals to keep that oil where it belongs. The original felt "seals" are pretty sorry, and the leather ones aren't much better. Glen Chaffin's MTFCA axle book will tell you what to do. This shows how to install the seals:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfxWPsF4KhQ
I agree with Steve it looks like oil rather then bearing grease.
Steve,
I love your videos. Especially sandblasting the rims
Matthew
i followed the video but am concerned that the sealant may not have held the seals tightly enough.
Kep, I had to replace an inner seal on my TT because the RTV sealant didn't hold. I think I didn't have it clean enough the first time. Dave
I forgot to add, I too think that looks like rearend grease. Dave
Kep,
see if you can find a suitable Loctite brand product to hold the seals in, it's usually good stuff that works.
Regards
Bede
My statement "Make sure the rear axle is not over filled with grease" refers to the axle differential lubricant, NOT the bearing grease.
Before installing the seals, thoroughly clean the inside of the housing. I wipe with lacquer thinner several times until the paper towel comes out clean. I've tried several modern sealants, but I've gone back to good old non-hardening Permatex, which has been around since Hector was a pup.
It does look like diff lube leaking out but on a similar note, if you have the neoprene inner seals and add to much grease to the bearings thinking any extra will simply squeeze past that seal, it won't. It will easily go past the felt seal on the outer end and get on your hub brakes. FWIW.
As usual, Thanks guys.
I hope to have a chance to take a closer look at everything early this week.
Hopefully Ron's Machine Shop has what I need in stock once I get it apart.
I forgot to mention that I did fill those little grease cups before I left yesterday.
Maybe a new shackle bush too.
From another you tube video, it appears that I will need a wheel puller ($50!), bearing puller ($50)and bearing sleeve removal tool ($14) in order to even inspect the problem.
The video mentions modifying a standard bearing puller purchased at a normal auto parts store, but does not elaborate.
Looks like I may have to move the T over to my house from the spare garage 10 miles away in order to attempt this repair, as I have zero maneuvering room in the other garage. Not sure if I can get it up my steep driveway though.
Kerry, are you seeing something that indicates it needs new shackle bushings? I looked on Lang's website and could not figure out which ones I have. Are they U or L.
Diff lube but I really don't like the color. That golden hue might spell a pull apart. I agree Brian, it's a lot of Kale just to check it out, but you're backs against it kind of.
I hesitate to mention this when there's a possibility (likelihood) of disintegrated thrust washers, but there's a method for removing rear wheels without a puller. Loosen the nut a few turns but leave it on, then put a cotter pin back in to keep it there. Driving around a block or two like that will often loosen the wheel. That said, I have to admit that I do prefer the puller. Sometimes you find one at a swap meet or auction on the cheap.
Bearing puller? If you mean for the axle bearings, I'd be very surprised if you need it. A piece of welding rod with a little hook bent on the end has always worked for me. If you mean for the inner pinion bearing sleeve, you don't need it there either. Cut that @#%&*~g thing off and throw it in the scrap pile, then invest that bearing puller money in a Fun Projects pinion bearing kit.
The sleeve puller is another story. In my book that's $14 well spent.
There is a very good aftermarket seal setup offered by all the peddlers that consists of an alumn. cap with o rings and a seal that fits over the outside of your axle housing.
Brian, Re shackles, you have the L type on the car now.