I just bought a 1926 coupe. I have what looks to be Kelsey rims. There is 2 valve stem holes in the felloes. The rim wobbles a little more than 1/4" from the side. The spindle arm bushing is wore out on that wheel side and the radius and tie rod caps are wore out probally because of the wobble in the wheel. I was told everything was replaced in front end in 2002. The bead does not fit up against the felloes for alignment as they do on my 1925. Is a 1/4" enough to cause the problem? I haven't checked alignment yet. Waiting on a part.
Is 1/4" run out too much for front?
If the steering wheel shakes and the front wheels shimmy back and forth, you need to fix it. If the wheel just runs crooked, it might be OK, but would be better to put that wheel on the back. The spindle bushings need to be snug and the tie rod ends snug. This problem is not going to get better by itself. Fix it before it causes an accident or causes things to wear out more.
Norm
1/4" is way to much. Spindle bushings will help considerably. Check the wheel bearings also. If they are worn or loose they will also create wobble. If the tie rods are loose, the whole axel will move and this needs to be corrected immediately. I would go through the whole front end (perches, spring mounts, tie rods, bearings, wheels) and be done with it. Good luck!
First of all, your natural wood finish spokes are gorgeous. The other part is... well, you sort of answered your own question. It sounds like everything that wears out is worn out. I'd be hesitant to drive the car faster than bicycle speed. Model T steering can get real treacherous.
You need to disconnect your pitman arm to find out whether all your problems are below the steering column. It may be you also have wear in your gear case.
Fixing looseness in the gear case is fairly straightforward, assuming the available aftermarket parts fit correctly. In my limited and very recent experience, lapping the little gears onto the pegs with valve-grinding paste is a great way to go.
The under-the-car stuff is harder, again, depending on whether the available aftermarket parts were made in China. An experienced buddy came over to help me rebush my spindles and it's a good thing he did, because my aftermarket bushings hadn't been properly chamferred, nor did the new kingpins fit correctly, even after everything had been properly reamed by the right kind of tools.
The greatest probability is that you're way more experienced and better equipped than I, since yours truly is just a 2-year newbie whose equipment amounts to a thick skull and ball-peen hammer with which to pound in some sense, so if you have access to a lathe and a press, go have at it. But if you're more like me, it may be that you need to be honest with yourself and get some outside help, whether that comes from a machine shop or a local mechanic.
Austin,
The 1/4" wobble in the wheel isn't so bad. Most Model T wheels wobble to some extent. Does the runout occur only in the rim but not the felloe? If so, then the rim is bent or mounted poorly. The wear in bushings, bearings and ball joints should be addressed but probably will not correct the wheel runout itself. If the 1/4" makes no other trouble I would leave it alone.
You have 2 valve stem holes because your rims came from a Chevrolet. Most people who use those rims put the extra hole in the rim and not the felloe, either way it should be o.k.