Getting TT fuel tanker back running

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Getting TT fuel tanker back running
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Tuesday, June 12, 2012 - 12:33 pm:

I posted last year about a TT I'm working on, but on this board obviously I have to start a new thread for this year.
I have confirmed the engine matches the body/frame which is surprising. The Serial # 14457783
Can y'all tell me anything about this like build date?

Other questions: The cowl has holes for the coil box to be mounted inside, however the engine has a coil bracket and its mounted on the engine. Of course the body could be different than the frame. Was this coil mount correct?

If I am to move the coil box inside the cab to match the holes, where can I find the box and hardware? I have tried various vendors and fle-bay, etc. It would look like this picture I'm going to load.

What trim goes on the doors around the window openings? I have screw holes and no glass or anything.

Does the fuel line normally have a valve on it? I'd think it should, where would it be located?

The carb has nothing attached to it, is there supposed to be a air filter?

If I'm moving the coil box, the bolts are head bolts (!) and y'all think I can take a couple out and re-torque w/o issues?

What is the correct mounting of this bracket on the transmission for the brake light?

Rear window is square flat glass. Current setup used a frame on inside and had bare bolt ends and nuts on the outside which looks bad. I ordered a frame and glass but not sure if its supposed to have frame on inside and outside.

Seat back cushion has hooks sort of thing to clip to rear wall of cab, but one is hung via cable tie and not sure correct way to hang it and where to get hardware

Thanks. will be buying manuals suggested sorry for FAQ type questions.

inside coil box



Picture of coil box and firewall


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Danuser on Tuesday, June 12, 2012 - 01:22 pm:

It is a 26 according to the number you gave, I'm assuming it is a sq cab, your coil box in a TT should be inside the cab and not the box you show which is an earlier one, take the box off the engine and put the coils in the correct box under the cowl, the back seat spring goes into two slots that are in the back of the cab, and the same wire goes down w/ a loop on the bottom end, and a small screw goes thru the back of the cab w/sq nut on outside, the rear window frame goes inside of the cab w/screws going to the outside w/nuts on the outside. What door trim do you have? there should be 3 pcs on the inside around the window area, I have one set of trim extra, I;ll have to check the side as they are different from side to side on one pc. at the bottom inside is a 4 cornered pc os sheet metal that coveres the lower portion of the window I have new ones of those for sale also. If you have a C-Cab I do NOT have trim for it. danuser88@ktis.net


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Tuesday, June 12, 2012 - 01:40 pm:

Your engine was assembled October 27, 1926. July 1926 was the end of the model year according to Ford, so your TT is a 1927 model. Your engine was likely painted "moleskin" green and had a vaporizer carb originally.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Henry Petrino in Modesto, CA on Tuesday, June 12, 2012 - 01:59 pm:

My responses to a couple of your questions:

The stock fuel line, as far as I know, had the only fuel line valve as a part of the sediment bulb assembly at the tank. However, I have always thought it a good idea to install a shut off valve at the carburetor. I have one on my TT and always shut it off when done using the truck for the day.

The stock carb didn't come with an air filter, however some folks do install one. I have not thought it necessary so have not put one on my truck.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Miller, Sequim WA on Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - 01:03 am:

Your motor looks to me as a transplant from a car. If your rig is truly a 26 or a 27 it will have the frame numbered between the right running board supports on the top edge. The coil box in the top picture ended production in 21 or 22? The coil boxes for the later TT's didn't have the mounting holes for the key switch on them they were just plain. Ford never did change the engine color from black in the TT's nor did they come standard with the Vaporizer Carbs.

Fred


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - 02:58 am:

Ok, I may be wrong about the color and the vaporiser, I wasn't there, so I can't really tell - but Scott says: " have confirmed the engine matches the body/frame which is surprising." so it isn't likely the engine is a transplant from a car - though it could of course be a replacement engine block stamped with the number from the original engine.

If you like to remove the coil box from the engine (no real benefit) then there shouldn't be any problem with removing and retorqueing the head bolts. Ford never specified bolt torque, but most restorers nowadays aims at 50 - 55 lb-ft.

Your question about a bracket for the brake light on the trans may benefit from a picture. There are several styles of accessory brake light switches used - Ford supplied one type that clamped onto the bendix housing and worked from the sideways motion of the brake pedal. They are reproduced but the quality has been reported as questionable in the past. John Regan's Fun Projects makes a quality brake light switch that fastens with two of the bolts for the drive shaft ball retainer: http://www.funprojects.com/products/bls-1.cfm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George_Cherry Hill NJ on Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - 06:02 am:

FWIW,

The trucks are a different breed of animal, that's where all the leftovers went for 26-27...to the trucks, so there are a bunch of truck parts of 26-27 that really do look like 25's!

Your pic shows coil box T5000...used many years earlier. What you want is a coil box for the '25 which is T5001 because you are showing the 'J' version of the dash and thats the coil box that goes with that dash. Just bout any swap meet has lots of the metal frames with gory wood, not had to find...a good tin box can be rebuild, there are gut kits from suppliers.

Yeah, then you need to add the keyswitch and ammeter stuff which gets pricey, but depends on whether you want what works, or what is right.

A true TT, in 26-27 would have stayed with the 'J' version of dash...the commercial car chassis for 26-27 went different..they had a special firewall the 'L' version, and the coil box was mounted like what you have.

That said, I have found 2 'commercials' built within 30 days of yours, and on has the 'J' and the other has the 'L' and they were within a week of one another in late 26. Who knows is always the answer....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - 01:39 pm:

Thanks for responses. I am guessing the coils were salvaged to another vehicle at one time or another and then these added later. I also understand these stay dry better as water can enter the cab easily through cowl vent.

I will post pic of the dash from inside. I have the switch and amp meter already. I'm tearing down the Kingston carb now. Do these use a bowl gasket? will search on this...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - 05:46 pm:

Here are the pictures mentioned earlier.

The white under the dash is residue from duct tape.

The transmission / pedals - there is a brake switch wired to a pedal. It sure looks like it was designed to mount up close but the hook is way bigger than the hole in the pedal arm. ?

I have a lot to learn here. I have worked on cars my whole life but nothing this old and its very different. Saw a post about mistakes and learned I wasn't supposed to jack up the rear diff by the center. Doh! That and something with the starter removal remember to look that up if I do it. Lots of good information.


a1

a2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rich Stinchcomb, Trumbull, CT on Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - 05:55 pm:

The brake switch is surely from a 28-29 Model A.

Rich


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Huson, Berthoud, Co. on Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - 06:23 pm:

Scott McBrook:

You don't say where you are, but if you are close enough to Berthoud or know someone coming this way, I would give you one free. I have many,many of them but they all need plastic from Fun Projects. I would really like to give some away, they just take up room

pictue


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Huson, Berthoud, Co. on Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - 06:26 pm:

Scott McBrook:

You don't say where you are, but if you are close enough to Berthoud or know someone coming this way, I would give you one free. I have many,many of them but they all need plastic from Fun Projects. I would really like to give some away, they just take up room

pictue


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Huson, Berthoud, Co. on Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - 06:31 pm:

Scott McBrook:

You don't say where you are, but if you are close enough to Berthoud or know someone coming this way, I would give you one free. I have many,many of them but they all need plastic from Fun Projects. I would really like to give some away, they just take up room

pictue


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Joe Van Evera on Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - 07:06 pm:

Hi Scott. I know next to nothing about the TT's. The biggest reason is that if I got interested in them, then I'd want one........ In one picture it shows the magneto post. Your engine should have two bolts (one on either side of the post) pointing forward, holding the top of the hogshead to the top of the block. There should also be two steel straps running from the bolts down to the frame motor mounts. Your engine will run without these things, but I think you'd want to get them at some point. I may be wrong, and if so, someone will give you the right info.... Good luck!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 01:50 am:

Joe V E,
You are not wrong. Good observation.
Also maybe a wise personal approach. There are many things I never got into because I already had too many hobbies to spend money on.
Scott,
It looks like a pretty nice truck. How about a photo or two of the whole thing?
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Stroud on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 03:05 am:

Scott, don't worry about jacking up the rearend from the center on a TT. I seriously doubt that you could bend it with a full load on. They are VERY tough! Joe Van is correct about the straps on the back of the engine. Just keep following this forum and asking questions, you'll get it figured out. Dave


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Danuser on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 10:16 am:

Scott I have the rear brackets for the 26-7 engines, genuine not repro's danuser88@ktis.net


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 11:30 am:

Hello Dave I am interested in coil box w/o switch if you have one like that extra. I can pay postage. Not sure what you meant about needing plastic. I'm in Houston TX area FYI. The truck was from a personal collection of a wealthy guy and not really driven from what I can tell, although it does have fluids in it - I can tell as nearly everything leaks LOL. Its does look good but the engine has some wiring issues as you can tell and I'm redoing the carb and fuel line, getting a 6v battery and then going to test the ignition.

Re: brackets on back of engine...have to look more closely at it and read your description. Hogs head?...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 11:35 am:

Oh! Joe I see the empty bolt holes in back of block by what on most vehicles is a bellhousing. Ahh...good catch. Need to find those straps.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Joe Van Evera on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 12:05 pm:

Scott - Once you "get into it" you'll have all sorts of light bulbs going off!!! The bolts in the top of the hogshead (bellhousing) were a major improvement in the 26's and 27's. They are meant to help in lining up the ballcap (the rear most "bearing" sometimes called the 4th main bearing) by inserting shims as needed. The straps do a great job of supporting and strengthening the pan around the back of the block. All this stuff will make more sense as you work on the truck and read the service manual. Great fun working on them and driving them!!!! Would love more pictures. Joe


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 01:46 pm:

My carb a Kingston L4 appears to not be any good. What I'm seeing is the bowl attaches to the carb with a nut that attaches to a threaded part of the main body where the fuel pickup is. Problem is there isn't much of a flange left for a gasket, it looks very rough like someone did grinding on it (?). Also the float hinge pin mount, one broke off. I'm not seeing how I can get this to work w/o leaking or tons of some sort of JB weld! Anyone with a carb for this thing?

You guys seem to like pictures so I am sending a couple more. Its not my vehicle I am hired to get it running. In this economy I can't seem to find a job I would normally the big oil company I worked for sent our accounting jobs to Manilla and laid off everyone. That's globalization for you. I digress, anyway, its not my car but should be fun to get running.
front quarter

rear

carb


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Miller, Sequim WA on Monday, July 02, 2012 - 03:50 pm:

Just to be clear the diagram that George put up is showing firewalls for the Cars as well as the TT's. All the last TT's used the late 1924 through 1925 High steel firewall and kept the coil box inside for the duration of their production. Part # 3634-L was only ever used for the bare "Car" chassis and not for the TT's.
Here is a previous discussion that had some great pictures on the subject.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/69326.html


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 12:59 pm:

Another set of questions - some maybe dumb.

I see the TT setup as Pos. ground. I found a wiring diagram where it shows 26-7 as neg ground. which is correct?

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/202913.html?1302119578

Also, I have purchased a floor starter switch, and it doesn't seem to be made to fit my cab. The floor switch has a large bracket but I cant find where it would bolt to. I guess I have the wrong part?

See photoignition switch location


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Danuser on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 01:19 pm:

It bolts to the left frame under the top edge, I take it you don't have the T-1 book our BIBLE, that shows all


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 01:25 pm:

Only book I have is a Ford Service book for Model T, and its good if you need to remove the engine and rebuild it or take the cab off the frame, but not very good on many other topics. Must be something better.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Huson, Berthoud, Co. on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 01:28 pm:

Scott:

There should be two 5/16" holes in your frame right under your left heel to bolt the switch to. At least in all cars that were built with a starter had the switch bolted to the frame. I dont know much about TTs but on cars with starters there is a hole in the floor board that lines up with the holes in the frame.
Your starter button looks correct to me. I have found in the distant past that new starter buttons (switches) are real poor and soon will not work. They had a paper thin strap of brass inside the that contacts the two copper bolts. It didn't take long before the metal strap was bent in the wrong direction. I have always used original buttons the strap is much thicker.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Huson, Berthoud, Co. on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 01:28 pm:

Scott:

There should be two 5/16" holes in your frame right under your left heel to bolt the switch to. At least in all cars that were built with a starter had the switch bolted to the frame. I dont know much about TTs but on cars with starters there is a hole in the floor board that lines up with the holes in the frame.
Your starter button looks correct to me. I have found in the distant past that new starter buttons (switches) are real poor and soon will not work. They had a paper thin strap of brass inside the presed on the two copper bolts. It didn't take long before the metal strap was bent in the wrong direction. I have always used original buttons the strap is much thicker.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 01:33 pm:

I can't tell you how to mount the switch because my TT project is the non-starter version. But I can tell you what Dave means when he refers to plastic for the coil box. That would be the Fun Projects replacement for the original wood panels. The reason for it is that when the wood gets a little wet your vehicle dies. The kit eliminates that problem.




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Miller, Sequim WA on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 02:11 pm:

Hi Scott ' All TT frames past 1921 were pre-drilled for the starter switch on top of the left frame rail a few inches in front of the seat frame.
Positive Ground was used on all Model T's and TT's then was changed to Negative ground for the Model A's.
I'll try to upload a photo later.. Fred.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Tomaso - Milton,WA on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 03:35 pm:

Negative ground for pre-'1928 Fords, Fred.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 04:42 pm:

Thanks for all the good info. I've found a copy of that the T-1 manual on Langs.

I actually have one set of those plastic coil box sides. Its setup for a engine mount with the ground on the bottom, but I could adapt it with some rework. Actually the owner said the original wood looked sort of "cool" as ragged as it is. Dunno if its even original but it is old looking. I have cleaned it up a lot and got new bolts and ceramics so it sticks through the firewall.

My setup and the firewall only has one lower hole with the ceramic for the ground. The other power wires are to the top connectors of course. What does the other bottom ceramic/ bolt connector do?

I'm also rebuilding a coil that has no continuity. I tested the others, two are strong and one is not so strong but I am going to clean it up good. Does not seem like rocket science just set the gaps and it seems to work great. Sounds like some evil scientist when you hook one up to power and let it go. Just had a plug wired into it for gap and it made a nice crackling noise with steady big spark.

I have put in a new copper fuel line with a see-through fuel filter and new ball valve. One complication is the exhaust runs close by and had to make a sort of wire support off the tranny cover to keep it away from the exhaust. May also put a bit of tin foil around the exhaust at that point for safety. In a related comment, my floorboard shows signs of burning where the exhaust goes past! I guess that gets pretty hot. May have to put some foil on that too.

Cleaning her up and having to order a new crank pulley mine was really loose (thanks John).

I had issues with the Lang ball bearing fan mount. Directions said to mount it with the bottle cap type cover and felt like the original, and I called to confirm, but after mounting it, the edge of the bottle cap when bolt was tightened dug into the seal on the sealed bearing and kept it from rotating - that wasn't going to work. Since no alternative bolt or spacers were supplied I had to drive to hardware store and find some appropriate spacers. Luckily have a first class old-school hardware store with all sorts of stuff. After mounting the pulley with these spacers, the alignment seemed off a bit, so I took one washer and put it on the outside and then left other on inside and that seemed to be better but have to wait until I get the crank pulley to see how it goes.

I figured out eventually (even a blind dog finds a hydrant once in a while) that this thing has solenoid on it that is not needed if I convert to foot switch. Rethinking going to foot switch I think the solenoid would be more reliable and less likely to be triggered accidentally.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Fred Miller, Sequim WA on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 05:05 pm:

Woops! Thanks Steve I had a Dyslexia moment, yes negative ground on the T's.
Here is a picture of the Starter switch on the TT. Keep in mind that the picture is wrong and the switch actually goes under the frame lip.


switch


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 05:17 pm:

Scott, your copper fuel line will be OK for awhile, but eventually metal fatigue from vibration may break it. Steel would be better. The fuel filter may be OK if it's the glass bowl type, but if it has paper in it you may have a problem with fuel starvation. With no fuel pump in a T, there has to be sufficient flow with just gravity.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Willie K Cordes on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 05:25 pm:

Scott, I hope you find a correct wiring diagram for that TT. The lower single connection on the back of the coil box has a wire going to the dash or dash bracket mounted ignition switch. In the battery position the ignition switch sends battery voltage to the that single coil box terminal and in the mag position it sends the magneto voltage to that terminal. The ground comes from the timer in the form of four wires that get connected to the top four terminals on the coil box.
Also all model T and TT vehicles were wired with the negative post on the battery going to ground, not the opposite as suggested in one of the answers above.
Oh, those plastic boards probably work better in the coil box if you drive a lot in the rain. I have original wood in the coil box on a number of cars and trucks.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 07:48 pm:

Holy cow! that switch is way back, I was thinking it was supposed to stick through the hole in the cab pictured, which your picture is about where the bracket with 4 holes is. It wasn't going ot fit there. Wonder if they retrofitted a model A switch at sometime in past.

This vehicle is just part of a collection and wont be driven much unless the weather is good and traffic light, mostly though neighborhoods where limit below 35. Just looking forward to it moving on own power!

Willie - my firewall does not have a second lower hole in it. thanks for info will look at wiring diagram before going forward.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Friday, July 06, 2012 - 05:21 pm:

I recently decided while waiting on a crank pulley from John Danuser, I decided why not clean up the old girls engine? Got a purple bottle of "super clean" they had on sale at Autozn and some brushes and started at it. It has been a long time since anyone had cleaned the engine. Now I've seen worse, cars where they had a leaking valve cover for many miles, but this was still in layers and dried out. So that took a while. But the "super clean" spray I thought would be sort of worthless actually did very well. While I was at it I took the horn apart and cleaned out the crud, used a wire wheel on the surface rust on the diaphragm. It is a EA "milesaway" type 6v horn. It worked briefly and then I could hear an electric motor going but no sound. After I took apart I figured out what the problem was, the motor gear thing was not pushed into the diaphragm enough.

In communicating with John I discovered that the waterpump on my TT was not original, they were all aftermarket add-ons, so my OEM style horn mount was never going to work. Hm... OK, have to make my own. No problem I have MIG and lots of other tools.

There was no grommet in the firewall so I removed the wiring and installed one. The wiring connector strip looks pretty worn but authentic, try to make that work.

I got some spiffy nickle plated head bolts and installed all but the back two. Any hints on how to get those in/out? They hit the body and the engine looks pretty well bolted to body and frame, no motor mounts like newer cars that give some.

Thinking of using a dash mounted starter and just using the floor switch for the horn.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Thursday, July 12, 2012 - 06:18 pm:

I was unable to find a suitable replacement for my original style crank pulley. It had been driven loose for quite a while and was big. I tried some options but a guy at Lang's mentioned something he had seen an old guy do, cut a slot in the pulley and then squish it, then weld the outer rim to hold it closed. Hmmm...that sounded good. So I did just that, cutting it a first with a hacksaw, then the outer part with a 4.25" cutoff wheel and then making another small cut to the inside as the hacksaw kerf was so small it wasn't going tobe enough. The reason I made a bit cut outside was that travels more to get the inside part to travel less - you knew that right. But squishing it a vice only solved the looseness on one axis. So welded a bead inside the pulley opposite the cut and then ground 95% of it off with a grinder. That worked great after some trial fitting. The pin holes were also ovalized pretty bad, so I welded the insides of those holes. Then I used the proper sized drill and re-made the holes back to the right size. I got it on the crank and then welded the outer slot, doing small tacks first on each end so the cooling would draw it up tighter. THen filled it in, then ground it smooth. Working good so far.pulley


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Thursday, July 19, 2012 - 12:36 pm:

Got new wiring harnesses (thanks John Danuser and Synders) and trying to figure out the "correct" routing, I can read the wiring diagram but just where the wires are supposed to be routed. Will get the book out...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Friday, July 20, 2012 - 04:43 pm:

Wondering how the headlight leads are routed. I see the book shows the light harness runs down the frame inside the hood, but the hood and radiator surround close up. Does the wires exit under the edge of the engine compartment trim - where the hood bottom hits?

Another electrical question:

The new harness I bought for the ignition side has two black wires that come out by the generator, and they also are hanging w/o a home up by the wiring block on the firewall. Assume these are grounds. I combined them to one lug and connected to the frame where the old ground was (homemade). I would assume the truck needs a ground to the block to be most efficient, however I don't see one in book or anywhere. And where are these grounds supposed to go up by the terminal block? Or are they something else? I don't see these wires on my wiring harness.

I seem to be having a discussion with myself here : ~(


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Friday, July 20, 2012 - 04:44 pm:

meant to say don't see them on the wiring diagram.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Friday, July 20, 2012 - 05:11 pm:

Found out my answers.

On my new wiring harness, those black wires are supposed to be for the lights, but only enough wire for one lamp, you'd need to splice the other side, and they aren't making the black with stripe wire anymore so the wiring diagram doesn't match up.

And the wires go underneath the trim the hood bottom latches to, and out the hole by the front.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Friday, July 20, 2012 - 06:02 pm:

Choke - I put a new spring on my Holley NH, and the only way it fits is with about 1/4 rotation preload, and with this, its sure as heck a strong choke spring!! Never seen anything like that, at least a few pounds of pressure. Is this normal and how does one "set" the choke with such a spring installed?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike_black on Friday, July 20, 2012 - 07:43 pm:

I've had some vehicles that had to run with the choke partly open until they warmed up, but, never a T. The capability for in-car carb adjustment eliminates the need to "set" the choke. Hold the choke to "prime" it then let it go. My starter equiped cars require very little choke (maybe one rotation). My 15 likes two rotations with the choke pulled, then I turn on the switch and it usually fires on the 1st pull. I recently rebuilt an NH and a G, and the spring is pretty strong on both. They're designed to choke and release--not to be set. If it needs more gas when cold, adjust the carb to be a little richer, then lean out as necessary.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Wednesday, August 01, 2012 - 06:13 pm:

I have added a bracket to mount the solinoid off the hogshead above the starter, works great, added a momentary switch to dash and that all works good. I have good tested coils, but two issues:

1. ignition switch only flowing 2-3 volts through the ignition wire.

2. coils will not fire in coil box. Have tried getting power for them through the light circuit with bulbs disconnected, and also tried grounding some of the known good coils to try get any of them singing, but the coil box seems an issue. I had cleaned and reworked the coil box contacts and bought a bit bent but decent coil box. I spent a lot of time with dremel type tool cleaning the contacts, I resoldered the bottom pos lead wire, did all that stuff. Will recheck but engine cranks good and I can smell fuel.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Tuesday, August 14, 2012 - 05:26 pm:

I am guessing that adding to an existing thread is not done much around here, as after a while Im the only one talking. Ok,

Sent off ignition to the guy in Georgia. He is excellent BTW.

Got engine running good, got remaining new rebuilt coils from John Danuser. Looking at getting door handles and windows taken care of soon.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Tuesday, August 14, 2012 - 05:30 pm:

Mike thanks for input. Yes, the T engine seems to need less choke than others Ive used, so the release is OK as you point out. Hoping to get the thing moving on its own power but its at the back of the shop boxed in. CAn't run it too long as shop has AC and the amount of noxious fumes and smoke from these old cars is impressive! Took me a while to get the old smoke out even running it with a nearby door open. I have some of those tubes for exhaust but the muffler only has a stub and I can't put the tube on it. : ~(


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 08:28 pm:

Found out after cleaning gook off the transmission there was a reason that I had not found anything relating to the rear transmission - it is an add-on Warford unit. The TT was pretty clean you can see but the Warford was layered in oil and dried oil. Took a while but I cleaned off most of it, removed side access panel, side idle shaft screws and cleaned all that up, then sealed the threads and reassembled, added 80/140 lube.

While I was at it, I drained the rear end. The fluid looked odd. Sort of a golden milky color. Seemed to have some particulate in it. I have read about the babbit thrust bearing issue, I guess I may have to take the thing apart for inspection, as we got it at an auction and am unsure of any of the history of it.

I looked at this thread already but input is welcomed. Would not use babbit again based on readings.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/263472.html#POST401147


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Danuser on Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 08:31 pm:

Scott there isn't a babbit thrust bearing in a TT rear end the worm sits on two bearing and sleeves, somewhere on this site is a good skeltal drawing of a TT rear end I saw it this a.m.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Stroud on Wednesday, August 22, 2012 - 03:43 am:

Scott, that golden color is from the bronze ring gear. Dave


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Wednesday, August 22, 2012 - 10:35 am:

Thanks for info guys. The books show the car rearend in detail, not the TT and I'm just trying to gather info. David, is that wear normal??


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Wednesday, August 22, 2012 - 10:37 am:

Oh yea, and a shout to John Danuser who sourced some great looking door handles for the TT. While there are others available, these are really sweet looking, chrome with black accent on the outer part of the exterior handle. Chrome is heavy too.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Danuser on Wednesday, August 22, 2012 - 10:48 am:

Scott that's the type that were on mine when I got it in 1956. I don't care for the unfinished aluminum ones?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott McBrook on Wednesday, August 22, 2012 - 11:35 am:

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/269964.html

good info fyi
see link as well


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