Does the front exhaust pipe come off of the muffler, or do you take it out with the muffler?
It should just slide out.
George
Its been 8 months since I put my new exhaust pipe and muffler on, but if I remember right you use a muffler clamp.
If you tighten the clamp just a little too much it V grooves the female muffler part and the male exhaust pipe inside it.
The grooves can be VERY difficult to pull apart.
Maybe someone can suggest a good method. When I had to take a muffler off it was usually in such poor shape, I usually just cut it off.
If the muffler is still good, perhaps someone can suggest a way to pull them apart.
Cheers
schuh
Muffler boo boo!
Bud, thanks, it came of pretty easy. The wife was not to happy when she saw what she did!!
Meant to say"came off"
George,
When the vendors supply a kit, they also include a clamp...and as Schuh says they tend to 'bite' making it near impossible to ever separate them again.
Real T's didn't have a clamp...it was as Jack said a simple slide fit with the front of the pipe held by the bronze nut, and a 1/4-28 thru the lug at the back of the muffler...with the front snout filled with the pipe, it is plenty stiff enough to not need a clamp.
Depends on what you want to save if they are indeed 'stuck'. Scrap the pipe by cutting it off in front of the snout, take a frameless hacksaw to the pipe on the inside and then start to roll it up like an old P-38 c-rats opener...save the muffler. Going the other way is just as obvious if a steel snout
Not to be picky, but unless it is a cast iron take apart muffler, or one with an original exhaust deflector...a new pipe and muffler is one of the cheapest things going and yeah sometimes the pipe needs to be trimmed, and yes it is easier if you have a friend with an exhaust pack nut wrench...but it gets done in less than an hour...gee, now I know why I have a whole rod of take-apart muffler ends hanging on the side of the garage....lol
oooops slow typing fingers
Other George...
You may want to lean out that carb a little...if it blew like that you have some raw gas getting through I think...
George, I plan to replace it soon, but I have to have the car this weekend! I think I can wrap the metal back around the cast frame. Bend and refit it. The rest is ok. It came off the front pipe easy, the back pipe is ok and the rest is in good shape. I hope bending it back around and either tacking it in a few rivets will get me through until a new one can be installed.
Thanks, Chip
NJ George, the wife was switching from batt to mag and the key got hung up in the off position. She panicked and switched it back to batt as I was accelerating. My mistake, her mistake, not going to worry , it is a minor fix or replace!
Is this much carbon normal inside a muffler?
George,
The Model T does not have precision fuel injection. If the car runs fine, don't sweat the carbon. Patching up the muffler with a piece of sheetmetal and some wire or metal bands is a time honored tradition. Repair kits consisting of a piece of sheetmetal, a sheet of asbestos and two metal bands used to be readily available. The last one I used was on my first car, a 36 Plymouth. In my work at my dad's station I cut many a muffler off with a cape chisel. We always tried to save the exhaust pipe since it was on the inside. The tail pipe clamps to the outside and usually was bad or sacrificed.
In these modern times you could saw the muffler of at the exhaust pipe and get a muffler shop to weld on your new muffler or an exhaust pipe extension.
The joints in the current repro sheet metal should be tack welded together, otherwise the nut comes off, or the bolt comes loose inside the muffler and the whole thing except the ends falls apart.
Oh heck George, just wrap it back around and secure it with bailing wire. I'm sure that kind of repair wouldn't be the first time in the history of Model T's. Sure, it's going to leak a little but Model T's are far from being hermetically sealed.
The only thing I've had trouble finding is the three bolts that hold the muffler together. The only alternative now, is to use studs. I think they were 5/16-24 X 13 1/4. I'm glad you finally posted photos. Ford changed the muffler many times during production.
George, I had one that was way worse than that! The outer cover blew completely off the car and was run over several times before I was able to pick it up. I straightened it out and hammered it flat, then rolled it in a sheet metal roller until it was round again and the end seam met. I hooked the seam together and worked it a little and closed it up tight. It looks like new except for the rust.
If you don't have a roller handy, a sheet metal shop should be able to do it in a few minutes. Just clean the soot off.
You can buy at a Home Depot or similar, 5 inch galvanized pipe that snaps together like your muffler. It might be close enough to work.
Something else, there wasn't a clamp at the pipe connection. That pipe moves in and out as the body flexes. You can usually see a mark on the pipe where this is happening. If you clamp it, you will put more strain on the nut at the manifold as the pipe now tries to move there, as well as pulling on the little muffler to frame bracket.
Larry - get some threaded rod from the hardware store and a few nuts.
As for George's "modified" muffler - it looks normal to me the only thing it lacks is some muffler wrap and bailing wire. I got a 15 foot roll of 2 x 1/16 inch header wrap for for about $15 from Autozone. Add a little gun gum (tail pipe bondo) and you'll have a great bandage.
One method of muffler removal is to drive down a long grade letting the engine do the braking. You just shut of the ignition for a few seconds then turn it on again. Doing this a few times will often remove a muffler without the use of any tools whatsoever.
LMAO @ Steve.......
Steve, I have browsed through the Ford Service manual, but have not found that particular method mentioned.
Are you sue it's authorised by Ford?
Who cares if it is loud or destructive? If it was quicker, Henry would have done it that way I bet.
Absolutely not OSHA approved.
Hey Steve, that's what got me in this jamb in the first place!!!!!!LOL
We did get it back together for now and I will order new guts and skin to repair it properly.
Thanks to all for the help and now off to the next problem!!!!!!
Chip
Hey guys mine stopped backfiring in the muffler when i turn the key off or severely retard the spark downhills what am i doing wrong?
Kep, is you muffler still present?
Kep.......if it's backfiring all the time when the car is pushing the engine you might be running a bit too lean a mixture.
Yes my muffler is still on, i welded it on it is one of those sports exhaust things like the boy racers have i just like to bring ...umm...joy to the streets by making it backfire.
Kep may be in the process of discovering a new method to remove the head or a spark plug.
Remember the spark that makes the BOOM starts at the spark plug and the pressure wave exerts forces in many directions.
No more "BOOMS" for me if possible!!
Fred, did you get the info on curtains?