Can the shift lock on a Ruckstell be flipped upside down?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Can the shift lock on a Ruckstell be flipped upside down?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By chris becker on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 02:22 am:

The shift lock on my Ruckstell hits the rear spring on my speedster due to the way I have lowered the far suspension. I was thinking of flipping the shift lock housing upside down then I would have plenty of room. I would have to modify the housing. Do you guys think it will work?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 09:18 am:

Chris, do you have the early or late type shifter?
I would think it would be easier to modify an early type shifter so that the arm came out the bottom rather than the top. You would need to plug the top of the housing. It is usually worn there anyway and your blanking it off would fix that too. Then the underside could be plugged/drilled/machined for an oil seal to keep the oil in its place.

I would much prefer to play with a bolt on piece which is easily replaced if needed, than mess with alterations to the housing.

Just my thoughts, for what they are worth.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stan Howe Helena, Montana on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 09:40 am:

I just did a shift arm modification for Doug Durein on a long nose lock. Forgot to take a picture of it when it was done, tho. Not too big a job, I bore the top hole out to 3/4, machine a new shaft with a longer bottom extension and make a new arm with a dog leg in it to clear the differential housing. The first one took all day with all the figuring, now I could make another one in less time. If the top hole is not worn and the shaft is not pitted like most of the used ones are you could weld an extension on the 1/2 inch end of the shaft, turn it down and use the original shaft. I find it easier to just machine a new one but I have a lathe and a mill. If you don't it would be harder to do or you would have to have a machine shop make the new shaft.

To mount the arm, I use a short piece of 1 inch shafting, drill it 1/2 and put a couple set screws in it that will tighten on a flat on the shaft.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By chris becker on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 11:00 am:

Allen, I think mine is the earlier version, mine is the taller one and has Hall Scott stamped in the housing. My shaft is still good and the hole out of the top is still tight. I was thinking of cutting the ears where the bolts go through and swap them side to side thus flipping the housing itself 180 degrees so the dog leg is on the bottom. I'll have to machine an oil groove in the shaft for an o-ring. Would this work? Geometry wise? Would I have to lengthen my arm on the shift handle so rod running between the handle and shift lock is level as possible so as not to bind something up, break something, or wallow the shift housing out?

Stan, I do have a lathe and mill in the shop. I need to do something down dirty as we are leaving for Wendover, Nevada and Speed Week on August 7. I like your idea and just might try it.

Thanks guys.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stan Howe Helena, Montana on Thursday, June 14, 2012 - 11:23 am:

You can't flip the housing because the flange is slanted to the housing. The holes will not line up, the shift fork won't be in the right plane and overall it just won't work, I think. Maybe it would, I'd have to look at one and think about it. It would be far easier to make a new shaft and just run it out the bottom or whack the arm off the top, weld and short extension on the bottom and then weld the arm on the extension. It should take you more than a couple hours to do it. Darn!! I wish I would have taken some pictures.


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