Removing hub from wood felloe wheel

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Removing hub from wood felloe wheel
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Fenton on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 09:01 am:

My right front wheel hub flanges are bent and wobble when spinning. I would like to remove the hubs for straightening and am wondering how easy/
hard it will be to remove them without disturbing the spokes which are tight. Suggestions please. Thanks, John.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Fenton on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 10:19 am:

Anybody?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By don ellis on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 10:41 am:

most of time there so tight you have to beat them out. If they come out easy , you have a problem.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 10:54 am:

I have too many rear 21" and too few front wheels - started trying to make a front wheel out of a rear. Got the bolts and the large drum off OK, but can't get the outer plate to rotate even with sanding, atf/acetone, a pin punch and a large hammer?

Then to get the hub out will likely tend to damage the spokes where they are supported.. I might try finding someone local who wants to swap instead of doing some unfixable damage to the wheel..


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ROBERT BERGSTADT on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 11:31 am:

Support the spokes solid and use a press


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Lee Frost Pierce on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 02:11 pm:

After the plate and hub are removed I use a piece of 1x 6 x 30 inch board with a v cut in it.
Then I secure a wood router to it and place it across the tire I then route off just enough to true up the surface and reassemble the wheel It will run perfectly true.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 03:03 pm:

I just take the nuts off and then remove the bolts. Remove the outer plate. Finally use a block of wood to protect the threads and hit the wood block with a 2 lb hammer. It won't disturb the spokes.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By don ellis on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 04:03 pm:

The humidity must make a difference, they are usually locked in around here in N.C.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 08:55 pm:

Two things can conspire to make the job a real headache. Removing the outer plate is the first. The hub must be absolutely clean, no rust or paint where the plate needs to come off. The plate needs to freed up on the hub next. Penetrating fluid around the centre and then persuasion applied. Often this can be done by driving the plate around the hub using a large pin punch in the bolt holes. The freer you can make it, the easier it will come off. Leave the plate with the bot holes off-set and drive it off from the back of the hub.

Secondly, the hub is best pressed out of the wheel. A press allows you to apply pressure evenly and gradually. In a tight wheel, which is preferable, this often won't work. applying too much pressure will only jam things tighter as the wheel is deformed into a dish. I have had limited success by turning the wheel over and putting the hub threaded end on a block of wood. Then you can hammer on each spoke, using a block of wood as a cushion, and gradually ease the spokes down over the hub. Take plenty of time and work around the wheel as you go, a little at a time. On our Canadian sourced wheels, I have to work on alternate spokes, as they are tapered from front to back as well as radially.

Hope this helps.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George_Cherry Hill NJ on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 09:51 pm:

John,

Think it through before you start and if it gets 'stuck' half way don't panic. All-thread and nuts and jack it back tight again and start again. Learned that one the hard way...had some rivet shear on front felloes and didn't want to try and fix on the car...had better ones with wrong hubs...so jack out swap right?

First old wrong hub 'stuck' 1/2 way and in frustration kept beating at it through a block until it 'went', needless to say, it went all right,,,but not the way I wanted it. 2nd one did the same thing 1/2 way and said not going to destroy 2! so came up with the jack back in and try again, eventually came out...did the same thing on original wheels...and getting them back together without a press was good that I had the all thread! Just jacked them back in, no teepee needed, 1/2 turn each and just kept walking in, then swapped out all thread for the regular carriage bolts one at a time.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 10:08 pm:

Since you are going to need a spoke press to get it back together, you might as well make a respoking jig based on John Regan's design. I made one in 2011 to respoke my wheels and found that not only can it be used to press in the spokes, it can be used to gently press out the spokes after removing the hub bolts and exterior hub plate disc. Before pressing the spokes out, be sure to number where each spoke goes and which spoke fits into which felloe hole. Good luck. Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 10:13 pm:

PS. I wouldn't beat on it with a hammer. I'd be as gentle as possible with it since the spokes are probably pretty old, thus, the re-spoking press.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick on Friday, June 15, 2012 - 10:25 pm:

PPS. If you use the spoke press to press the spokes out, after removing the bolts and hub plate put the wheel face down over the all thread shaft and slide a large washer over the shaft against the interior side of the wheel hub and thread the nut against the washer and tighten it until the spokes start coming out forming a reverse teepee. Go slow and be careful as they could let loose all at once, especially if the spokes are very tight against the hub. Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Stroud on Saturday, June 16, 2012 - 04:32 am:

Allan Bennet, the trick to pressing the hub out of a wheel is to support the spokes as close as possible to the hub. That way, they won't bind as pressure is applied. Of course, care should be taken. Dave


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Fenton on Saturday, June 16, 2012 - 04:23 pm:

Thanks for all the suggestions, I may leave it till the winter. Jim Patrick, this is a 1915 wood felloe wheel which is not assembled using the spoke press. Thanks again. John.


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