Hi Guys,
I about to media blast my frame and plan to use por 15.
Do I need to paint over the por 15, and if so with what, or just leave it as is?
Thanks,
Michael
Por-15 is UV sensitive and needs to be top coated.
Chassis Black that the Por people sell is perfect for this.
At a minimum you will need to use the UV protective overcoat. A better alternative would be to have it powder coated. One frame I did with POR15 was oxidized after just one year in the elements and is going to need to be redone.
Media blasting won't remove the rust, and POR 15 in my opinion works poorly. It has a poor lustre after a short period of time, then it peels. Perhaps it works OK on ships......
I recommend you have the frame sandblasted, then use a good automotive epoxy primer such as PPG DP40LF. Then you can topcoat with a good black paint such as Dupont Centari.
If you are determined to use spray bombs then you can get a good job from Krylon or Rustoleum. I don't care much for Rustoleum because it seems to take forever to dry, particularly here in Texas where the humidity can be high a lot of the time in spite of high 90 degree temperatures.
Worked well for me but you have to follow the process. Use the cleaner and the metal prep stuff, and yes, you must use one of their top coats.
I've used POR-15, paint, and powder coating on frames. My 1st choice has to be powder coating. Looks great and easier to keep clean--oil and road grime wipes right off.
Michael,
The idea behind POR (Paint Over Rust), you guessed it....is to paint over rust! If you use POR follow the directions to the "T"! It is a good product when used correctly.
I like to use it inside my doors ....places I don't intend to look at again but want to protect...
Good Luck
Floyd
Michael,
The idea behind POR (Paint Over Rust), you guessed it....is to paint over rust! If you use POR follow the directions to the "T"! It is a good product when used correctly.
I like to use it inside my doors ....places I don't intend to look at again but want to protect...
Good Luck
Floyd
I can't tell the difference between the POR paint products and commercial Rustoleum Except the price.
Rustoleum is a Alcalyd Enamel and also fades in the sun as POR does. You can mix any Acrylic Enamel hardener with Rustolem like the Valspar Hardener if you want it to dry faster.
I have been shooting Rustoleum for over 30 year and find it great for lots of parts including my frames.
Fred
I should have Added that Any Acrylic Enamel Hardener will work. There is a product called "The Wet Look" I have used. . Use enamel reducer too, and not what is states on the rustoleum can. I mixed 8 parts paint/2 parts reducer/1 part hardener.
I should have Added that Any Acrylic Enamel Hardener will work. There is a product called "The Wet Look" I have used. . Use enamel reducer too, and not what is states on the rustoleum can. I mixed 8 parts paint/2 parts reducer/1 part hardener.
POR is designed to be painted over rust. It prevents humidity to attack the wounded metal, and there are applications for which it was designed where it works as intended.
But...if you have a loose frame, I can't imagine you would want to leave any rust before painting it. Nicely stated: that would be pretty retarded, wouldn't it?
If you have a loose frame, you remove all rust before painting it, whatever it takes, then use a proper product such as red oxide primer or Bill Hirsch Chassis Black to paint it, for protection and shine.
Leave the POR for the inside of your floor pans of your early Porsche 911, where you used a wire brush to remove scaling and as much rust as possible and would want to prevent further rusting and pan replacement for as long as possible.
I have restored Modelts for over 40 years . Sand blast then use a good primer filler . Mix 50 / 50 spray the heck out of it to get a good build . Sand with 80 grit then prime again and work to 240 grit . Paint . Power coating will not fill pits in metal . I use industrial Imron cheaper than auto paint . Spray outside with good resperator . If your going to spend time and money restoring a T do it right .
I used POR-15 when I restored my ’16. I used it on the frame, rear end, driveline, radius rods, wishbone and front axle. Royce and others are right (and it is stated on the can) it will turn milky when exposed to sunlight (UV). If these parts are seeing the sun then milkyness in the color is the least of my problems .
I found that it is extremely important that the metal be OIL free. The only time I had POR-15 peel is when I had contaminants on the metal. It has been my experience that POR-15 has a toughness second only to powder coating in my opinion.
I also use POR-15 on wood. I have it on my floor boards and fire wall. It sticks really well and looks good.
Be_Zeo_Be
To fill pits prior to powdercoating, use "Hi-Temp Lab Metal" available from Fastenal. It's about $48 for a small can. Stir it with a big screwdriver to the consistency of bondo and put a glob on the pitted area and work it with a plastic spatula like glazing putty. After half hour or so, sand smooth and let cure (air dry) for about 24 hours and take to the powdercoater and tell him what you used. His oven will finish the curing process and will hold things like frames that won't fit in your home oven. The cost of powdercoating seems to vary a lot from place to place, but, for me, powdercoating wasn't a lot more than it would have cost me to paint it myself--probably cheaper than using POR-15. It's worth checking out the prices and availability in your area.
Michael,
Forgot to tell you--I painted my TT running boards in 1999 with POR-15 and to this day even the tops of the diamonds have not worn through to the metal. However, when the sun is bright they have a brownish tint to them. I did each individual leaf of the springs on one of my speedsters in 2002, and they still don't bleed rust when they get wet! I just did the powdercoating, so, I can't attest to the longevity of it yet.
I have used POR-15 on several Model T frames, springs and under carriage parts. Since they are not exposed continually to UV rays, they have stayed looking great. It is important however to follow instructions. If you don't use the metal cleaner and metal prep. you won't get the proper results. Also - if some of the parts do eventually fade, I will top coat them with black. The coating is hard as nails and resists about anything that paint would only better. Powder coating may be superior but sure costs a lot more if you are a do-it-yourself person. Just my thoughts!!
Does powder coating hold up ok on a frame when it flexs?
At the price of good paint nowadays I can see powder coating being a viable option.
Rustoleum Professional from Lowes-home depot dries in about 10 minutes in decent weather.
You can get the Rustoleum Hardhat paint from Granger.It drys quick to.I would think it is about the same as the "professional" from lowes.
I will say the Hard hat holds up very well to gasoline if it is allowed to cure well before exsposure.
My luck with por 15 was not good.As some pointed out to me,I may have done something wrong,so perhaps I am at fault.But nothing is as good as complete removal of the rust and a good primer sealer.
I agree with Royce. It seems to work to keep the rust away, but looses its luster after 6 months or so, even when directions are followed, prep is done to their specs, and their top coat is used.