I made a post last night, but I don't see it listed. I'll try again .. but a shorter version.
I'm pretty green on the T ... just got it from my Dad's passing away about a year ago, and am working on getting it to be moderately driveable. Safety first, so am working on brakes and steering first.
I've re-done the rear brake shoes, installing what appears to be the same one-piece (but lined) version as what was on it. They appear to only be held to the backing plate by the pivot bolt. I see no holes for retention clips that I see mentioned in some other brake threads. I tightened all the wood wheel hub bolts... some Incliuding 2 replaced ones, now stick out a bit past their thin nuts. The wheel doesn't turn but a short radius . about the distance between two hub bolts. Apparently, grinding these slightly longer bolts (maybe 1/4" at best) is necessary? ... or should washers/spacers be placed between the wheel hub and axle grease cap?
Thanks, from a nob! ....
Dennis
Don't add any washers, the axle taper and the taper in the bore of the hub (and to an extent the woodruff key) is what keeps the wheel on the axle. You want the taper to seat fully.
Worn parts are what causes loose wheels, a good axle shaft and a fair to good hub can be fitted tighter to the shaft with axle shim, you can use these to benefit. The shim is a cone like piece to wrap around inside the hub prior to seating it on the shaft.
As for the hub bolts, yes grind those extending parts down to eliminate rubbing. Must be sure to stake or peen over the bolt ends to keep the nuts locked on tight. Depending on the fit, the bolt ends can extend some, but flush is best. Just fit as needed.
Using some dye, Prussian blue or grease on spots you think are impinging will show you what is hitting for adjustment to be made.
The brake shoes normally have 'lugs' where you hook the ends of the return springs, these need to be there.
And the new shoes need fitting most times, some one you have to grind away on cast iron to remove impinging areas.
The newest "repro" shoes with linings are really really nice, got these from Synders.....lined, but still one-piece design like the original.
Aray of shoes, upper right old stock Ford one-piece iron, upper left 'new' Synders one-piece, lower left, 'new' two-piece that fit terrible without lots of grinding, this set has been worked on to fit, lower right, accessory old time steel band with lining.
"New" one-piece compared to 'new' two piece which has riveted lining using split rivets...not the most efficient way.
"New" Synders one-piece lined shoe compared to Ford original one-piece iron shoe, the design and size are spot on.....these new lined one-piece shoes are a great new replacement part
Dennis, just two suggestions. When you install the springs on the shoes, have the open ends of the springs facing outwards. That way the springs will tend to pull the shoes towards the backing plate.
Secondly, and this will be argued, the one piece cast iron shoes should be cut, or at least weakened at the pivot point. The cast shoes often break, with dire consequences. You want them to break where there will be no risk. Some will argue that they were not meant to be two pieces. If that is the case, I can see no point to the spring mounting lugs cast into the shoes on the pivot bolt side. The two halves are adequately located by the pivot bolt head and the return spring keeps them in place on the bolt.
Just my experience.
Allan from down under
Very good ... thanks for the tips!
Craig PM'd me as well .. all were very helpful. I am not used to purchasing new parts 'for' a vehicle, and having to 'trim to fit' .. but it was no big deal. I did not put the springs on backwards, but will do that when I put the brake cams on, yet this week. (They just came in today!). Several issues I found:
Hub bolts too long. Ground off. Did not pean .. will do that when I pull for the brake cam's, as well. Hub bolts just barely caught a piece of the shoe .. on each side. Hub bolts were also (previously, as well!) banging on a large bolt end and castle nut, coming through the backing plate. The hub bolt grinding took care of that. 1 axle shim on each side brought the drum out to proper location (thanks Craig!) ... Silly me was looking to put washers against the outer bearing cap! I did skim a bit off both sides of the shoes, so they weren't catching on anything.Had to grind a tad off the brake backer hold-on bolt heads, to make room for the springs. That was the biggest problem.
Next issue will be the brake cams. The bushings are badly egged out, and the cams badly worn. I got new cams and bushings .. expect a hassle getting the old shims out, without taking the backing plates off.
Once this all gets done, then it will be up front to adjust their operation!
Thanks again to all!
Dennis
Just to complicate things a bit, I'll point out that rubbing, or even grinding, of hub nuts and bolts, often causing brake shoe destruction, is sometimes caused by the failure of rear axle thrust washers allowing the axle to shift inward. If you take out the filler plug, stick in a finger, and bring out chunky, silvery oil, you know for sure that's the trouble. If not, it means that may not be a problem. Do you know for sure that the famous babbit thrust washers in the rear axle have been replaced?
Steve: ... no I don't! Although the broken shoe at the bottom of the brake drum in one of your photos, certainly looks familiar! Thanks for the heads up... I will check!