Help with stuck pin on crank ratchet

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Help with stuck pin on crank ratchet
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Baker on Saturday, June 23, 2012 - 10:01 pm:

Does anyone know the secret to removing this stuck pin? I'm removing the hand crank so I can put on a new crank split pulley. The old pulley won't come off without removing this. Thanks for any help. James


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Thomas Mullin on Saturday, June 23, 2012 - 10:19 pm:

James,

Should be easy.

1. Remove cotter pin from the small end of the pin thought the ratchet.

pin

2. Remove the pin. If the pin resists, or is rusted in place, try some penetrating oil / liquid wrench and then use a small drift and hammer to drive it out.

Once the pin is out, you should then be able to remove the ratchet.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Saturday, June 23, 2012 - 10:21 pm:

Hope you have the radiator off. I just put one on a car and it would be a tight work space with it on. The new pin that holds the pulley on is a very tight fit. Back to your stuck pin, It should tap out with a drift pin and hammer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Baker on Saturday, June 23, 2012 - 10:29 pm:

The pin is really stuck I soaked the area with penetrant and used a drift and a hammer and it won't budge. I do have the radiator removed and put it in a safe place where I won't trip on it. I figured removing this pin would be the easy part but I guess not. Didn't know if I should try heat or not? Thanks James


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Baker on Saturday, June 23, 2012 - 10:34 pm:


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Saturday, June 23, 2012 - 10:42 pm:

James,if it is really stuck you may have to drill it out part way. I would grind off that part of the pin protruding through the crank dog. Then centre punch the clean end and drill the pin 3/4 of the way through. Start with about a 3/16" drill and re-drill with another size up until your hole is almost out the side of the pin. This hole will then keep a pin punch in place and the weakened pin should drive out easily.

Hope this helps.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Saturday, June 23, 2012 - 10:51 pm:

I replaced a lost pin out on the road without removing the radiator. It's a bit of a squeeze, but not too bad.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Sunday, June 24, 2012 - 12:39 am:

He is putting on a new pulley on the crank shaft. If you use heat keep it away from the solder around the dam. You might try grinding off the head of the pin and try driving it out from that side.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Sunday, June 24, 2012 - 11:26 am:

It was riveted to the crank handle originally. Could be we are looking at a rivet that will need to be drilled out? The crank handle on my 1912 is still riveted on.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Sunday, June 24, 2012 - 11:50 am:

Nope. I assume this is a 1922 T. The picture is a little out of focus, but it shows a #3905 pin with a hole for a cotter pin. The encyclopedia says, "About 1919 the starting ratchet pin was changed to a rivet with a hole for a cotter pin." Apparently its a post-1919 removable ratchet pin that's just really stuck.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Sunday, June 24, 2012 - 12:57 pm:

Those pins can be stuck as sometimes owners 'stand' on the crank handle to get the engine to turnover. That will bend the pin in the middle, and be tough to drive out with the drift punch and hammer.

Usually the cotter pin is rusted too, be sure that you have that out, and the big end of the pin isn't the one to punch on, be sure to hit the small end of the pin. The right size drift punch and a 5 lb hammer should do it. Use lots of penetrating oil, not WD-40! Let the penetrating oil soak, hit the pin some, add more oil, hit the pin again to rattle it, add more oil and then bang away :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Sunday, June 24, 2012 - 01:07 pm:

There's a widely circulated chart showing the relative merits of various penetrants. The best of the commercial products (and most costly) is Kroil. Twice as good and much less expensive is a 50/50 home brew of ATF and acetone.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Cascisa - Poulsbo, Washington on Sunday, June 24, 2012 - 01:23 pm:

After you win this battle, use one of these to replace the pin.I have used one for years. They are great. Available at most T vendors.

Be_Zero_Be


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Sunday, June 24, 2012 - 01:46 pm:

Bob, it's great until the clip breaks. VOE.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Cascisa - Poulsbo, Washington on Sunday, June 24, 2012 - 09:55 pm:

Steve,

The one I have is NOS that I got from an original model T guys estate. So-far so-good :-)

Be_Zero_Be


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James Baker on Sunday, June 24, 2012 - 11:11 pm:

Thanks everyone I figured it out! I put a new cotter pin into the pin, reassembled the truck and took it for a drive with my father today, we had a blast. Also I put the new split crank pulley into my box of spare parts. The little noise that my old pulley makes gives it some character. I'm going to enjoy it for what it is instead of worrying about everything. Maybe it will be in the family for another 90 years. I rebuilt the rear end and driveshaft last winter so that makes me feel safer. Thanks James


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Garrison on Monday, June 25, 2012 - 12:50 am:

I just put one of the new aluminum split pulleys on my sedan. I couldn't believe how tight the roll pin was that holds it on the crank. When I was young I watched my dad break the end off a crankshaft on a Y-block by hitting it with a hammer to get the front pulley off. Putting the roll pin through the driveshaft with a brass drift and hammer made me nervous. But I got it and yesterday I put about 90 miles on the car. Everything worked fine.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Monday, June 25, 2012 - 02:28 pm:

Why did you just put in a new cotter pin and throw the new split pulley in a box? You were right there! That doesn't make any sense. I wouldn't run it with a loose crank pulley. That will just ruin the crankshaft. If it gets bad enough, the crankshaft will have to come out to be machined and sleeved.

And you wonder why Model Ts are declining in value.


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