After a complete restauration of my 1917-er roadster, I noticed a small waterleak near the third cylinder. Just a few drops but nevertheless it was anoying me. I wanted it to be repaired but how? Welding? no option. Maybe soldering, but then I would have to take the engine out and take apart.
3 months ago I drained the block and cleaned the area around the leak and discovered 2 very small cracks. I put on a very small layer of loctite 5699 and waited for a day. Filled the system with water and the leak seemed to be gone. I checked the area every day and then drove the T several times in order to get it to a good high temperature. I still have a close look everyday and now I am convinced that the 2 cracks are closed and the repair can hardly be seen. I do not know if that stuff is available in the U.s. but it is in Europe abd made by Henkel. No, no, I am not an agent for them. Regards,Kees Steeman.
Interesting, wondering how would your repair compare to a hairline crack on the head of my 29 REO? The water seeps slowly out a long crack about 10" long. What gave you the idea to use this product? Cracks like to continue to open over time so wonder how long your repair might work? I just might give this a try!!
I tried this because the T cooling system is more or less without any pressure. Mine has no waterpump either. Don,t know what the system in the REO is. Kees.
Thanks for you posting and reply. You got me to thinking about an old project, the hairline crack in the engine head of my 29 REO. you got me to doing soem research and found this item, also from loctite:
Loctite Automotive Epoxy Putty is a fast setting, industrial strength compound that enables permanent repairs to anything made of steel or other metals. It does not shrink and is resistant to most common solvents. It can be sanded, drilled and painted after 60 minutes. Each stick of putty contains pre-measured portions of resin and hardener throughout therefore no measuring or mixing tools are necessary. Both components react to produce a hard, tough, permanent and waterproof bond on a wide range of materials.
Will head off to the hardware store tomorrow and do some looken, readin and buyin . . . .
Go to your auto parts store instead of the hardware. They all have lots of fixes for this problem and they work well. One old brand that i have used for years that i would highly recommend is K&W Block Sealer. There are several others that work equally well. These type products are easier to use than epoxy's because they are poured into the cooling system. Just follow directions and i think you will be happy.
Roger
I used K&W block Sealer in a '36 Rolls that had a cracked block and shot water out the tail pipe as a result when first started. Added the sealer, closed the louvers on the radiator and let it get real hot. After a week of driving there was no loss of coolant and it never leaked again. Two years later I sold the car and drove it to the buyer from New York City to Rochester on the New York State Thruway at 65 MPH and it never used a drop of coolant! Great stuff!
Roger & Val-
Could you be more specific as to what you used? I see there is K&W Permanent Metallic Block Seal Head Gasket Repair, and also K&W Permanent Metallic Block Seal Block and Radiator. Also, I see there is a K&W NanoTechnology Permanent Head Gasket & Block Repair.
Any help that you can give in choosing the best product would be appreciated.
It was many years ago so I am not positive but I think it was the block and radiator seal. I had used it once before to seal a leak in the bottom tank of the radiator of another car with a pressurized cooling system. Since it didn't seem to affect the cooling at all and stood up under pressure I decided to use the same stuff for for the block.
I have repaired several blocks with JB Weld with the same success. Some were modern pressurized blocks.
Trick is to sand the area of the crack well and clean thouroughly with acetone first.
Cheers
schuh