Hi, Well it is time to get Lizzy out of mothballs and check out the ol' rear diff. I have a hunch it still has babbit washers. The last time I drove it, it popped three times going up the hill to my garage and I have stored it since. What I am wondering is if I should order the DVD's or the book or both. I guess there are three dvd's and which book is recommended, the one that says front and rear axle restoration or the ruckstell axle manual that also says it include regular diffy's. Kinda confusing. I want to study up before I open it up, otherwise it will be apart for ever! LOL Thanks Paul
Personally, I work best with DVD or personal instruction. I've done the Chilton's thing with my muscle cars for 30 years and it never fails that somewhere by step 5 or 6, what you see in the chilton's doesn't match what you see in the real world.
And with DVD or You Tube instruction, often times the person giving the instruction can advise you of changes in design or approaches to repair (read: shortcuts) that aren't covered in the book.
That's just me...your mileage may vary...grin...
DVDs are nice to watch, but, I can lay the book right beside my work as I'm working on it and refer to it as I go.
Mike is correct. The video is nice if you have time to sit through all of it until you get to the part you want, but you can keep the book handy by your work and refer directly to the part that applies to what you're doing. We're talking about the MTFCA axle book by Glen Chaffin here. It's about a car that hasn't changed since 1927, so there aren't many surprises. My one quibble is that when it comes to the pinion bearing the book is impartial, while I am not. Never again will I waste money on the original setup as long as the Fun Projects replacement is available. Now that I've plugged the book, here's a video for you. It shows just the end of the job, not the whole thing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfxWPsF4KhQ
Why can't you fast-forward to the part you need?? Grin...
I've had my wireless net book (about half the size and thickness of a laptop) opened and sitting on my car seat or under the hood (depending on what I am working on) on a few occassions over the past couple years.
Although I still use my printed manuals of course, I have been rescued more than once by having unlimited data at my disposal right there at fender-side.
Hey - if MTFCA need a new star for eventual new recording of the videos - we have just found the man.
Mr. Jelf have just shown the way :-)
I second the motion on having Steve do some videos for the club. He has demonstrated competence and patience.
Steve - what do you say?
Thanks, Keith
I'm reminded of Mr. Lincoln's story of the man who was being tarred and feathered and run out of town on a rail, and remarked , "If it weren't for the honor of the thing, I'd just as soon be somewhere else."
Michael has the pertinent word: eventual. Maybe someday, after a few more pressing chores are out of the way.
Steve - You're so humble.......
Keith
Paul, I have a nice series of articles put into a pdf file that I will send you.
Paul,
It can also depend on how you learn. Some of us learn best by reading the book, some by watching the video, others working with someone who done the procedure and can walk us through it and show us as we go. Also there is a new generation of folks that love video games who are used to learning by “trial and error.” You charge off into the new adventure, you get killed, you start over and you work you way up to more experienced levels. That can even be used to some extent on a T. There are many things that if you do it wrong it is self correcting. For example if you put the ring gear on the exhaust manifold side of the stock engine, the car has two speeds in reverse and only one very slow speed forward. And the parts fit and function fine – and it is easier to take apart the second time and fix because all the nuts and bolts have been recently removed and are not “frozen” tight. But in some cases such as the front spring perches – installing them swapped [they fit ok – but you usually have to work harder than normal to get the wishbone installed] can cause the car to flip. Technically that is still self-correcting but you may or may not survive to be the one to reinstall them properly. [Disclaimer – many have installed them wrong and after a “wild ride” they corrected the problem. And some have flipped a car and been ok – but it is not a good way to learn that the Model T should have positive castor on the front wheels. I still think that would make a great plot for a book – the heirs get in patient with Hap or whoever and swap the spring perches to get rid of him etc…. ] Because of the items that can cause you bodily harm -- I recommend the first three ways of learning when it comes to working on our Ts.
In a previous posting I also mentioned how some of the local chapters have a library with the DVDs and repair manuals. Many of us will repair the rear axle and then not watch that video or read that book until the next time we are involved with rebuilding the rear axle. A club library can be a great place to store the videos and books etc. so others can also use them.
And be sure to support your car/chassis safely. You get no points for a perfect rebuild and having the car fall on you or one of your helpers as you put the new rebuild back into the car. Or as I often quote Mark Twain, “It is better to be safe a 1000 times than dead once.”
Steve – you would do great with that video!
Respectfully submitted,
Hap l9l5 cut off
I won't make a new video right now, but I'll dig up a couple of pictures of how to start the job. A six foot piece of heavy square tubing is the perfect support.
After someone pointed out the flimsy construction of the stands, I added a bit of reinforcement.
Hey Steve, if you have room, a longer piece of square tubeing would be about right so that the rear end would have room to wiggle out of there with out hitting the 2 support stands. It looks like it would work fine and it probably did the way it is. Maybe 7 feet instead of 6? My very humble 2 cents worth. A great idea the way you have it.
A little extra length wouldn't hurt, but isn't necessary. As it is, the stands are in front of the axle and present no obstacle to removal. Just drop the axle and bring it back.
Chris, Thanks a bunch for the articles. Very good explanations and pictures. I learned a ton! THANKS
Steve, you should make more videos! You look so relaxed and confident when tinkering on the ol' T!
Hap, I agree safety is a must! I was a licensed Nascar crew chief and I would see these guys jack up the side of a race car and crawl under without a jackstand! I would always go over and slide one of ours under the car and say "Here, atleast your family can have an open casket!"! Those cars weighed 3200 pounds and had 3.5 inches of clearance. My golden rule when assembling anything is that the devil in in the details.
Thanks all for the advice, Paul
Ok Steve. I'll take the Ford Service Manual Challenge on July 4th. Grin...
I just discovered today that my coupe isn't moving too well in low gear. (In fact, hardly moving at all.) Reverse is fine. But low takes a lot of time to build up any speed in. Sort of like an old automatic transmission in a big-boat V8 car from the 60s that's on its last legs.
I will use only the service manual for this practical exercise in adjusting the low gear band and record the experience for You Tube.
This will be my very first attempt at doing any real repairs/maintenance on my T. (Not counting cleaning plugs and tightening bolts here and there.)
Could be interesting...grin...