Should i install a washer over the rear axle before installing the wheel hub nut? thanks. Ken
No.
When my axle nut is is installed the cotter key hole is almost 3/16" from the castle nut.my hub has about 1/8" clearance to the felt cover. the hub appears to be in very good condition with no gilding. should the castle nut slots be in line with the key hole? thanks. Ken
Either or both your axle and the hub are worn some. I think the washer is a good idea to align the slots in the castle nut with the hole in the axle. Done it myself for the same reason.
Thanks Royce! my axles are new from a T supplier so it might be the hubs. i`ll need to see what the drum to the lining alignment looks like when i get to that point. possibly a shim? Ken
Doesn't this mean the hub nuts are dangerously close to the brake shoes? How about a shim on the taper?
Ken, 3 things.
#1 What year car?
#2 Before you install the brake drum, take some valve grinding compound and lap the drum into the axle as best you can, making sure you still have adequate backing plate and drum nut clearance. If you don't, it's shim or new drum time.
#3 Once you get it all back on the road, be sure to go back and check the nuts again. As that drum mates with the axle taper, you might find the nut isn't as tight as you left it. I 'think' the nut should be tightened to about 110 ft lbs to give you an idea of the force you will need to tighten it. Smarter people than I am will probably chime in on this. If at around 110 ft lbs, you still can't line up the cotter pin slot, a washer is 'OK' but not really the best option but try to find some hardened ones.
Remember, the name of the game here is for the axle and the drum taper to mate perfectly.
Thanks for the info Dennis! My T is a 24 and i have the small drums. Ken
I'm having the same problem of the brakes hitting the hub nuts. I have no in out movement so its not the thrust washers. I think I need a shim.
I cut mine out of the flat side of an old can.
When i took this diff apart i noticed the rub marks on the hub bolts but wasn't sure why. i did a complete rebuild and now is time for the brakes ,but when i noticed the axle cotter key hole to far out for the castle nut slot,something is not right yet.I don`t want to put a washer between the hub and the nut to get the key hole to line up and still have a problem with the hub bolts rubbing. all else is new so i think my hubs will need a shim. anyone know how far a shim will move the wheel out? thanks. Ken
Ken, my car is a 27 with wire wheels so we're dealing with very different drums but what I said about mating the drums to the axle surface still holds true. Shims will add another factor to this equation. I'm going to bow out of this and let the wood wheel guys give you the best advice. Getting those drums on tight is very important
The wheel will move out about.o80 when using a ,010 shim
Ken, how far thew shim moves the hub out depends on the thickness of the shim material. For me, one shim cut from a lacquer thinner can was enough.
Thanks to all you guys that are taking your time to help me! I'll post a picture of my brake drum in relationship to my backing plate. maybe this will help me figure out why my axle nut cotter key hole just don`t look right. this is my first model t so this is all new to me thank. Ken
Are you using a modern castellated nut, or a proper model T nut? The new nuts are not the same as the originals.
Hay Ken! I stumbled on to the same thought last night. I thought i would do the right thing and use new hardware. I did save the old nuts and sure enough they fit perfect. you got my back! thanks much. Ken
Ken B. -- I was going to post that your brake drum-to-backing plate alignment looks right, but I couldn't figure out how that would compute with the castle nut not working. I'm glad Ken T. was thinking.
Thanks Mike! it`s good to hear about my backing plates. both sides look the same.i`ll get this car together some day. when i dismantled this car i bagged, tagged and took photos of everything so i could try to reassemble it close to original. my biggest setback is parts that almost fit
Sounds like you're gaining on it Ken. That's why I love this place. Sometimes 'new' and 'correct' aren't the same thing and there are guys here who have figured that out the hard way before we did and are willing to help (thank God).