I am a gardener and one of my clients asked me if I wanted to see a truck they were selling. It is a 1927 Model T truck that is 90% restored and is on a flatbed trailer in their garage. It has a new oak bed, has an extra frame, extra fenders, running boards, original wooden spoke wheels, extra set of wire wheels, with and without tires, extra engine block, crankshaft, head, 3 extra horns, extra head lights, carburetor, many more parts in boxes to count, plus the original owners book and registration card and current registration. The whole kit and caboodle including the trailer for $2000 and maybe as low as $1500. I am seriously thinking about it, if only to tide in the local parade or short drives around town. I cannot get out of town without getting on a highway, so it would be just the town I live in. Good idea, good price, good offer?
Sounds like a heck of a buy to me! Dave
I have a friend that lives in McKinleyville. Can he come take a look at it today? PM me or call me at 541-nine15-8fourfiver7.
Today is not good for my clients, I can call you though. What is your friends name? McKinleyville is quite small and many of us know each other and there is a strong following of old car and truck collectors here. I think with all it has in extras, I could build 50% of another model T, but the extra frame is not for a truck. It has an extra generator and transmission, two extra steering columns, extra coil boxes, plus, there was so much on the trailer under the truck, that it was overwhelming to take in all of it.
My friend's name is Mark and he works security for Humboldt Recyclers. He's only been there a couple years, up from Ventura after the economy downturn. Elctrician by trade, pulling security until he can make it north here. I have another friend there who owns a local temp agency - Jamie Rutton.
Mark's not really a car guy, but it would be nice to get his take on it before I dedicate a trip south myself.
The photo of the truck is not a TT but built on a T frame. You haven't pd for it yet, shame on you
I have an in with my clients, I do their yard work and they like me. I figured it was not a TT and I was originally told it was a 29. But I would love to ride it in our Pony express days parade and take my dogs out in it to the local park. I figured that I could easily sell off the extra frame and some of the extra parts if needed. The people I want to buy it from may also take payments from me instead of a lump sum.
Martin, based on our phone conversation, I strongly recommend you snagging this for yourself. Don't pass it up if you have a choice!
However, if you do decide to decline it, I would like first crack at it.
Good talking to you. Wish we had a better phone connection. I know I always have trouble talking to my friend Mark there.
It looks like a bargain! If it is not a TT, you can drive it on the slower highways. Just be aware of those behind you and pull over to let them pass if you can. I like to wait to the top of a grade to pull over unless there is a passing lane, because if I slow down or stop, I will be going even slower when I start out again. But at the top of a hill I will wait for everyone behind to pass before I continue on.
That looks very good, and just the value of the parts even if it doesn't run would be worth every penny. and a trailer too!
It sounds as though Martin wants to buy it and is seeking advice from members here.
We need to give him the time to consider it before others get involved with wanting to buy it. If he decides not to buy it, then Martin can move towards letting others in on it.
I was told that it runs, just needs to be finished with a seat, etc.
You should buy it Martin - it's a good deal from what you described even without the trailer. If you decide later on that you're not interested in finishing the job then you can pass it on to someone else. Storage would be the most pressing need.
Extra wheels, 2 wood spoke and three wire, with tires.
from the back side showing another set of wire wheels.
I joined this forum because I figured that the only way to learn about this truck and how to do work on it is from those with experience. I believe I can also find others around here in Northern California who would assist me with advice. I have always loved these old trucks and have wanted one since I was a teen aged gardener in High School. Slow is not a problem for me, I hate driving fast and spend most of my driving as it is on the local streets.
Indeed, Orlando. I take it you missed my last post up there. Also, I highly encouraged him to buy it when we talked on he phone.
I will stay on this forum and keep in contact. It has so many extra parts for me to catalog when I buy it. I will probably want to sell the wire wheels. I have a large 2 car garage and a storage container. I can reorganize both to fit the truck in the garage. The truck itself is 90% restored, the head lights have an extra set of new bezels, the books from the show room, original paper work and first license plate. It has two extra radiators too.
I would definitely buy it! Since that is a T and not TT frame, you could easily put a Touring or Coupe, etc body on it if you so desired.
In your last photo it appears you have some 19" Model A Ford(1930-31) wheels. Those make good trading stock.
Good decent Model A rims are getting harder to find- at least in my part of the country.
Why the heck can't someone in Northeast Ohio want to part with a T and trailer...why does this always happen on the west coast? Id snarf it up in a minute.
Martin.......the HELL with the forum......GIT 'ER DUN for crying out loud!....... LOL
The trailer alone could be resold for about what he pays for the whole thing in these parts.
Welcome to the Forum, Martin. You won't find a nicer bunch of cantankerous old guys anywhere.
You no doubt recognize this:
Since it looks like there is about 70% of the truck left to restore, I call this fuzzy math.
I don't know about the percentage of restoration, buy I do know that's a good buy at two grand, and even better at $1500.
The truck has, sorry, 90% of what it needs to be restored. The frame is painted black and so is the drive train. It has 3 extra cylinder heads, besides 2 extra radiators. I just talked with my client and his brother said it is mine if I want it. My client will pay off his brother and let me do work and make extra payments for the truck and all the extra parts, wheels, etcetera that comes with it. I do not get the trailer though. No big deal on the trailer. My clients want me to have the truck and look forward to seeing me drive it in the parade some day. He even said I could sell any of the extra parts and wheels to help get the rest of the restoration off the ground. I figure I could sell or trade for what I need in other parts or for help in restoring it to what I would like. It was an open cab express model.
Martin, I do not want to sound negative but, new paint does not mean that it is 90% restored.
There is a LOT more to a proper restoration. I do think it is a great price regardless. Other than new paint do you know what else has been done?
Drive train has been rebuilt, brakes too, engine has been rebuilt and needs one engine bolt on the block, is in the process of being converted to a distributor instead of the coil box, new bed made of oak, needs a dash board and maybe new floor boards and seat. It originally did not have much in the way of a body, so the open cab express model looked much like it does now. I believe it has 10 wire wheels, two with tires and two extra wood spoke wheels and two extra rims for those. It has the running boards and fenders plus extra fenders. Even has the kerosene side lights in good condition. There are so many boxes of parts for me to go through and catalog. The frame under neath it is the same, but where the springs attach in the back, it is narrower with one bolt hole, instead of two as on the trucks rear end. I know it has two extra steering columns, an extra steering wheel too. Like I said, there may be enough parts for half of another Model T.
Sounds like it's a "Gardner's Ton-Truck" if I ever heard of one !!
Wow ... I agree .. although it will still be a TON of work, if you have the time, most will be labor. Once you sort what you need, you can maybe look at selling the top layer or two of spare parts, to fund that last 10%. Yep ... just a trailer like that would easily go for $900 here, and most are quite a bit more. The barrels are pretty cool too! I'd almost look at converting my roadster to a pick'em up, and putting a barrel like that on the back. :-)
Sounds like it'll be a heck of a deal for you! Best of luck with it!
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if it's a 27, it's sporting the wrong hood. Its lacking the headlight crossbar too.. Great buy tho! No doubt about that..
It has 25 style headlights and hood, I think the rear end is 26-7 and engine?
I will know much more when I get all the paper work that originally came with the truck. It has the dealer book and other paperwork. A box full of paperwork and books.
It's a "bitsy", little of this a little of that. But for the price he stated, he can't go wrong. He can sell the surplus parts later, and make some bling.
"...is in the process of being converted to a distributor instead of the coil box..."
It's hard to tell from the pictures how many, but some of the wire wheels are Model A. They're not worth as much as Model T wheels, but you should be able to get $25 or $30 each for them.
Heh, heh, heh .... wait till those spare parts turn into T #2, and then he buys another one (#3) and so on and so on ...
You DO know, Martin, that the Model T is an illness with no known cure, right? And they DO multiply!
If those wire wheels are any good, even though they are Model A wheels, they would be worth about $100 apiece. That is $1,000 if they are all good. The parts there are worth more individually that the whole, so, you can't go wrong by buying it. It looks like a good restorable project to me. Here are two pictures of a car I bought for $1,500. The one you show is in better shape than the one I bought.
I have been looking at my photos of the truck and there are 5 wire wheels without tires and 3 with tires that appear to be all the same type, plus two wood spoke wheels with tires and two rims for the wood spoke type. I also realize that the gas headlight is for an earlier model T.
Run, not walk and buy it. What are you waiting for? What a deal.
MARTIN.......don't you have that bought YET?
It is mine already, my clients called me yesterday and said they want me to have the truck and since it belongs to his brother, he is going to pay is brother off for the $2000 and let me pay it off over time through work exchange. I figure that that way, they will find more around their yard that they do not want to do and give that work to me. I already make $175 a month on that yard.
Mat\rtin: John to John Iversen at Blue Lake and he might give some insight. If you need his @ let me know. Maybe someone else will give you t
bill d # but it is in our guide book.
Hey Bill, send me John Iversen's phone number, I will call him. I want to make as many connections here on the North Coast as I can.
Humboldt county is one of the best places in the world to drive an early automobile. Many, many, hundreds of miles of gentle back roads to drive on. And most people there are used to slow vehicles. There must be thousands of local residents that have never driven over 50mph in their entire life. I lived in Ferndale for about four years. The very first time I drove my 1915 Studebaker to a nearby town, I jumped onto the freeway and had to pass someone driving a Toyota.
A model T should do great all over there. Congratulations! And welcome to the affliction!
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Almost every town here has a Pony express day, pioneer day or rodeo day where there are parades with old cars and trucks. I was planning on entering those parades. I am also making my connections with those who collect old cars and trucks. How does one tell whether it is a TT frame or a T frame? The frame it is on has 2 bolt holes in the back where the springs are and the extra frame has one bolt hole. The next time I am with the truck I will take a closer picture of the two frames and one of the engine.
That is a T frame and rear axle. The TT is much beefier than that. The rear axle looks like a 27. The front axle and frame look like a 27, but the body is pre 1922. The wheels are the 25-27 split rim de-mountable wheels. Body is most likely 19-21. But that's OK. By making it a truck, it won't be original anyway, and many cars were converted into trucks in the olden days, especially during the great depression, when they were needed for business or moving to California from the "dust bowl" etc. So you could leave it as is. In fact not even paint it if you want it to look old, or you could find a 27 body and make it back into a car. I will attach a picture of a T which gets more attention than the restored cars, when our group is out.
So, what or even why is the frame that is an extra, different? Is it the year of the frame? I am learning as I go and doing a lot of reading too.I have read a good part of a book I got with the truck to review called " Model T Ford, the car that changed the world " by Bruce McCalley. There is a box of books and paper work for me to pick up and I may do that before the weekend.
Driving in a parade Martin is one of the worst things you can do with a Model T. Having to slip the bands in order to drive slow causes unnecessary wear on transmission bands and drums.
If you can drive along in low gear without having to constantly go back into neutral then it's not so bad.
If you install a Ruckstell and use low range, you can also use low band at the same time and go at about the speed of a walk. Just leave some distance between you and whoever is in front of you so you can catch up then use neutral until you slow down again and go back into low low. Very little band slipage in that range.
In your first post you call it a 27. What I think it is, is a 27 chassis on which someone placed an earlier body.
I have driven in several parades in both of my T's. I don't "slip the bands". I put the handbrake in neutral and just push on low pedal whenever needed. Speed up and then slow down, simple. Dave
I'm sure you have many years experience driving David. Martin on the other hand is just buying his first T and should be enlightened as to a situation where a new Model T driver might be causing unnecessary wear to the transmission. I would like to drive my T's in parades as well, but unless I'm the guy in front, it's not worth it.
I got some of the paperwork for the truck yesterday. The original pink slip says the year built as 22 and year sold as 24 and a notation of an engine number from 1919. One of the most current registration cards says the chassis number is 14745795. Is that the number made and does that put it at 1927 or 26 even? I looked at the engine yesterday and it is very clean, the block is black and the head is green, it has a distributor mounted on the front of the engine. Can someone tell me why the frame on the truck and the extra are alike, but different. The frame on the truck has 2 bolt holes on either side on the back where the springs attach, the extra has one on each side.The frame on the truck is wider in the back by about 2 inches on each side, not the side rails, but the part of the frame shaped like a yoke for the differential. The ends on the truck are wider than the other frame.
At $1,500.00 to $2,000.00, not only is that a great deal, it is a once in a lifetime deal, worth, I would guess, no less than $6,000.00 (at 90% restored, with all the work that has been done on it), which you should jump on, FAST. Heck, the trailer it is sitting on is probably worth $1,000.00 to $1,500.00. You'd be getting the T and all the extra parts for free! Good luck to you. Jim Patrick
The chassis # is february 1927. Should be found on the top flange of the frame where the front passenger's feet should be - some # has been found on the driver side, though. The wider rear crossmember sounds like a 1926/27 car/light truck frame. A 1 ton truck frame is much heavier with a two piece rear spring and a worm drive rear axle. Plenty of pictures on this site showing the differences if you search through google - here is first a picture comparing a 26/27 car frame with wider rear crossmember compared to a 1914-25 frame:
The second pic shows a heavier 1 ton truck chassis.
Than you Roger, clears it up for me. What I have is on the 26/27 frame and the extra frame is a 14/25.
the trailer could be sold for that price and the car is free.
Martin, you can go on ebay and do individual searches on the various Model T parts you have and get an idea of what the parts are going for, in order to see how much all you have is worth. I think you will be pleasantly surprised. Merry Christmas and Happy Birthday. Jim Patrick
Everybody keeps talking about the trailer; Martin said in his July 8th 10:12 post that he will NOT get the trailer! I think it's still one heck of a good deal though!
Harold, I just saw that. My answer was based on Martin's first post saying "the whole kit and kaboodle, including the trailer...". I missed the later July 8 10:12pm post saying he was not getting the trailer, but it's still a once in a lifetime deal in my book. Jim Patrick
I'd be hesitant selling anything until the vehicle is finished. On several occasions I've selected "the best" part, only to find out once in use that there were problems. Spend a lot of time in that book!
I plan on selling parts that do not go with this truck, like the wire rims to begin with, a Hudson headlight, maybe the extra fenders. All the small parts I plan on keeping. The extra frame I plan on selling too. Or trading for the parts I need to finish the restoration.
I think I have the bug now, ha ha , I may not want to sell much of anything, if I can help it. There is the bow hardware for a top beneath the truck, with the extra frame to start with I have options on making a roadster next. I think the brother of my client was starting on a second model T when he gave up. The last time I was in the garage where the truck is, I noticed that it has the tool to remove and attach the split rims. I plan on having it here in less than two weeks.
Remember....the last 10% of the restoration takes 50% of the time!
(not to mention the money)
I have read every magazine and book I got with the truck, though it is not a truck frame. I am thinking of doing my own rendition, since nothing on this Model T is original or to the year specific. It already has a wood bed right up to the seat area, so I figure on finishing the rest of the body in wood too, increasing the depth of the bed also. First picture is my first drawing of what the truck already is at in configuration and I will add the second drawing of the bed being higher and the cab. I may want to add doors to the cab too. I also have the side lights too high.
Good idea to build on what you already have.
A lot of Ts running around are just as you describe.
I have two of them.
Will be a nice T you'll be proud of and it'll get a lot of attention wherever you go with it.
Martin, I've had T's for the last 35 years, but, until 2 years ago, I had never had one with a back seat. LOVE IT! You really expand what you can do with it and who can share the fun with you. Here's another idea for you. My top removes in a few minutes , making it what some call an express body that fits in my trailer, with the top slid under the car. If it's going to rain, or the sun is too hot, just put the top back on. You could enjoy it now as is, and later add a seat, then later add a top. The hardest part of a hack is the front of it (where the windshield is) and you've already got that!
Interesting! If you have sufficient room that would be a no-brainer. But as a guy with a car that's sat in my garage for nearly 2 years waiting to get going (a saturn not the TT) I know how things can go.
Thanks for posting pictures of the TT frames and rear ends. Now I know we are dealing with a ton truck here on my end.
I got to visit my truck today while I was doing yard work. I took more pictures of it with the boxes of parts in the bed. It has a box with at least a dozen carburetors in it. A fender tool box with tools inside. A dismantled rear axle, extra leaf springs, two white wall tires I missed before and I think the metal assembly for the roof of an open touring car because there are 2 sets of them. It also has an aermore exhaust whistle. The plate on the inside of the fire wall has a last date of December 8 1923, Made in the United States, the engine says Made in Canada. There are two speedometers, but I have yet to find the gearing for them, hopefully buried in the bottom of a box. It has a starter yet to be put in.
Inside of the toolbox.
In your box of carburetors there's a Holley G. The one attached to an intake manifold looks like a Holley NH or a Kingston. There are a couple I don't recognize. Maybe non-T? The real prizes are the Aermore whistle and the speedometers, if they're usable or repairable. Those whistles usually go for over $200, and speedometers for more.
The aermore is on the truck already, it can be seen in the first photo that I started the tread with. There is also a box of wooden coils and two or three coil boxes.
Martin, I think you got the buy of the year! Congrats! Dave
I have three dogs and my final design is for a dog catcher out of the Model T I am getting. I had to redraw the whole drawing because I had the wrong front fenders, so since my back is out for a few days, I spent my morning drawing up a better and more accurate drawing of the truck. I figure on painting it all black with gold pinstripping and gold and white letters..
I like it but how will the rest of the family feel about riding with you ?
Rob Maach has or had a "dog catcher" model T. There was a sign on it that read, "Don't let the dog out no matter what he tells you...."
Here's one I took a pic of in Richmond in 2008, that could be quickly done as temporary until you get your dogcatcher body built
I worked on a piece for art of what I want the rig to look like. I would like to paint the fenders and hood a dark green and the body a light ivory. I drew up what I wanted and could not find my color pencils, so I colored it with my crayons instead and used a black pen to finish it off.
Well Martin, If you build a car half as good as you draw, it'll turn out fantastic!
When I was in school, I used to spend my extra time after school work drawing pictures of old cars and trucks. I still have some of those drawings still. When ever I take on a project, I get out my pencil and draw it out first. I have done it with a feed shed, a chicken coop, an aviary, next boxes, etc. When I get the truck measured from front to back and top to bottom, I will get out the graph paper and start mapping everything out. I will build the body and its frame out of fir or spruce to keep it light.
Good art, and good thinking, Martin. What do you have in your aviary? I want to build one, but can't find any covering without zinc galvanizing, except stainless at $7 per sq ft. Parrots easily get zinc poisoning.
This one rode like this for almost all our 2200 mile trip recently.
HI Rick, I have an aviary on my front porch and have 16 budgerigars, aka parakeets in that aviary and I have a cocatiel and a conure in cages outside. I used vinegar on my cage wire to cut down the toxicity of the zinc, I also let it sit outside in the rain, that helps too.. Your parrot is a double yellow headed Amazon?
Thanks for the info on using vinegar, Martin. I've never heard of that. Still, if they are chewers...
This Galah, aka Rose-Breasted Cockatoo, has earned the name, Chewbaca, because she chews everything. We've made the transition through Budgies to 'tiels to her and Greybeard, the Congo African Grey.
My computer screen is off on its color, so I could not see that the bird is pink and not yellow. I worked for an aviary for five years and my boss had Eclectus, macaws, amazons and two pair of galahs. He tried feeding the galahs on typical sprouted parrot seed and they did not like it at all. I gave them some of my parakeet seed and they loved it. Makes sense since the galahs, cockatiels and budgies are all from Australia. The problem with the zinc coating is that when it is fresh on the wire, it is toxic, when it is oxidized by the acid in vinegar or by the acidity of rain, it is reduced.
The drawings are making want to rebody my car..
I feel lucky to have the option of turning this Model T into what ever my imagination can come up with. I pinched a nerve in my lower back and spent most of last week incapable of doing my yards, so I reread most of the books and magazines I got for the truck and browsed the web for photos and drawings of Model T's. Geez, I have even searched my cable channels for any shows that may have Model T's. Saw one on Auction Kings, I even saw the answer on Family Feud one day, Ha ha After I get the truck in my garage, I will measure it from side to side and front to back, top to bottom and get it all on a grid sheet. I am sure I need to buy a new exhaust manifold and intake, for I do not recall seeing them in the boxes of parts. I am planning on talking directly with the man that worked on the project and get an update on how far he has gone and gather some knowledge from him. He is a native resident on Northern California and may know of connections for me to try.
Martin - I see at least one intake manifold (with carburetor attached) in your box of parts. The manifold is standing on edge and you have to look hard to recognize it, but it appears to be a stock intake manifold. There is also another type manifold with carburetor attached but it appears to me to be some type of manifold. Whatever the case, don't dispose of ANYTHING until you know for sure what it is. That second manifold I mentioned might just be some type of rare item to mount the carburetor lower or something. I think you are getting a GREAT deal,....harold
.......after a second look, I think that second one I mentioned is a stock intake manifold too; just sitting at a funny angle in the picture to be able to tell for sure,......???
.....ha,ha,.......the more I look, the more I see! I actually think there are 3 intake manifolds in that box of parts! That light colored carburetor (which, by the way, is an interesting looking piece that somebody more up on carbs' than me might recognize),....anyway, I think that carburetor is ALSO attached to an intake manifold. Boy! I'd sure like to be there to help you inventory all those parts when you get it all home Martin; you may be surprized how much you actually have there! Again,.....don't throw ANYTHING away until you know for sure what everything is!
I should have re-read this whole thread before spouting off about what I recognized in the pictures,.....Steve Jelf already covered most of what I said!
Here are some more pictures of boxes of parts. I saw a photo of a MTFCA members car with these springs on the front.
Inside of the toolbox
Water pump I believe in this box.
I was browsing online and found information on the springs, they were an aftermarket part, the Hassler shock absorber.
Martin -- If you want to open a lively discussion, ask for opinions on how to rebuild the water pump.
Now Mike, you know better than to even mention the words "Water Pump".
You could probably get a discussion of the Hasslers too. Some people love 'em, and some definitely don't. The tool box may be the best thing you have there. If it's in good shape or easily restorable, it can be a high dollar item.
The tool box is in great shape, just rusty. I worked for my clients yesterday on a rental unit of theirs. They may want me to take over maintaining that yard too. I may be getting up to and possibly more than $300 a month of work from them to go towards paying for the Model T. They are bring it over on Monday and that is when I will start inventory of the parts. I plan on taking pictures of the parts too and will post pictures here when I need to.
My Model T was delivered today. I was surprised that I could lift and move both the frame and engine block. It came with load of parts. I counted 14 carburetors, 4 intake manifolds one of which looks new, full front axle for an earlier Model T, complete rear axle and drive shaft, a long tool box and a short tool box, 2 air pumps, coil boxes and coils, extra lights, magneto, transmission. There is everything there to build another Model T. lacking a body. I have two sizes of wire wheels and 3 wood spoke wheels. I think I counted 3 or 4 hoods of different sizes and 2 radiators, different sizes.
My housemate on the T
I checked the engine number on my T today and it is a Canada built engine #727,770 which puts it made in early 1927, the registration says the chassis number is 14745795 and a date of 1926. The other engine has a US number of 3358127 which dates it to September 5 of 1919 and that engine has a certificate of ownership dated to 1-19-1924 with an engine from that year dated to 1924, so I suspect its engine was replaced. All the parts appear to be for that title for a 1924 touring. It all fits, that explains the set of top irons for a Model T touring, the earlier frame and front suspension. I did not buy one Model T with assorted parts, I bought two with one dismantled all ready for someone to restore and put back together. I checked the center hubs of the wire wheels, the four smaller ones do not fit a T, but the two larger ones do, or appear to. As tempting as it is to put another T together, I am going to try and sell it as a project to someone to restore and put back together. Any ideas of what I should offer it for?
What a great find! Very interesting to watch the progress, are you going to post more as you go?
" I joined this forum because I figured that the only way to learn about this truck and how to do work on it is from those with experience. "
has turned into
" I am going to try and sell it as a project to someone to restore and put back together. Any ideas of what I should offer it for? "
Too bad - you probably won't get this opportunity again
Do think long and hard about disposing of your purchase. As Jim wrote, you have acquired a rare opportunity.
With your talent and expertise, you could build a very fine vehicle - and a very desirable, attractive one at that!
Of course, I have no idea of your other interests, nor time and space available for this project - however, your curiosity was sufficiently aroused to ask numerous questions and do a fair amount of research. Yes, it does appear that there are some parts that you will not need ....perhaps these can be traded, swapped, or sold for cash to obtain parts or services you do need.
Good Luck in you in your decision making -
I think you're saying you are going to sell off the "second" T, not the whole thing--we'all need clarification on that!
Of course, if you have the room, one could do the Dogcatcher truck first and then do the touring. . . .
'jest sayin' T's tend to proliferate. . .
He is saying that he didn't just buy one t, he bought two and wants to sell the one that's in parts to someone who will put it back together. Give him a break!
Sorry - I did not read Martin's post correctly!
I was just in Eureka for Thanksgiving. This trip, the "family stuff" didn't leave time for looking at T stuff. But I will be up there again at some point in the next few months. With my family, sometimes I don't get a lot of warning. But if Martin keeps in touch on the forum, I should be able to stop by and look through things with him.
I have been wondering how he is doing with his project. It would be good to hear from him again.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
DESPERATELY LOOKING FOR A ZENITH CARBURETOR 22 HACK WHERE can I look? MILLI FROM VERONA ITALY THANKS
Milli, there are several models of Zenith that would be correct for your 22 hack.
The S4BF is the best of them. www.strombergof.com or there is one for sale on the classifieds.
Such a deal Martin. Jump on it and bring the left overs to our 23 rd Bakersfield National Swap Meet and car show next April.