Rope crank seal installation

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2012: Rope crank seal installation
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chester Leighton on Sunday, July 08, 2012 - 07:11 pm:

Got the rope packing and speedy sleeve yesterday to repair the front crank shaft seal. It's been in the triple digits heat here with high humidity so I haven't started yet. The rope seal came in two pieces that look like they are longer than necessary and may need to be cut. How do I install them? Do I press them in by hand and trim off the excess? How do I compensate for the thickness of the timing cover gasket? Any pictures or directions to install will be much appreciated. I have used speedy sleeves before on other old engine projects so I have some idea how that works but have always used felt or neoprene seals.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve in Tennessee on Sunday, July 08, 2012 - 07:13 pm:

Chester,

there is a modern seal available for use in place of the rope.

You may wish to consider that.

Steve


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Richard Bennett on Sunday, July 08, 2012 - 08:36 pm:

Chester, I use the seal used in the A models. Because the A crankshaft is larger in diameter, the seal does have to be trimmed for use in s T motor. I soak the seal in oil first and fit it into the timing cover, leaving it a little proud. I cut the pan gaskets so they go around the seal rather than over the ends. If you do the same on the pan side, leaving the seal a little proud again, when you tighten down the bolts the two halves are compressed together for a better seal. It may help to form the gaskets to the crank if you use a socket spanner of suitable size to press the two halves into their respective grooves.

Hope this helps.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gene Carrothers Huntington Beach on Sunday, July 08, 2012 - 10:48 pm:

So Sorry Chester you didn't read the previous posts about the modern seal for the outside of the timing gear cover at the crankshaft .
Pleas Throw that bloody rope seal away in the spare parts locker and get a modern neopreme seal and use some Right Stuff by Permatex to glue it to the outside of the front cove between the pulley and the cover and you'll Never have another leaak there!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Patrick on Monday, July 09, 2012 - 09:58 am:

I'm sure Chester read it Gene, since he originated the "Crankshaft Seal Repair" thread back on July 5 seeking advice on the best method. I guess he simply chose to do it the old fashioned way.

Since you chose to install the rope Chester, do not cut the extra length off. The extra length is there for you to pack the rope down into the upper and lower channel halves, as tightly as you can pack it in, so it will conform tightly to the crankshaft and minimize the leakage. You might even use a hammer and wooden punch like a bamboo chopstick from a chinese restaurant, to tap it in tight with. Don't use a steel punch as you might damage the crankshaft. Leave a little above each surface so when the block is lowered onto the pan the two halves will compress, sealing the point at which they join, or you can use a dab of The Right Stuff where they meet.

Jim Patrick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Monday, July 09, 2012 - 10:13 am:

I use a deep socket and a mallet for putting the rope seal in there. I think the socket is 15/16", but you'll figure that part out. Just use one a little smaller than the opening. Then I do as others above have suggested, trim the excess off leaving about 1/8" or so on each end so it can compress tightly. It works for me.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Monday, July 09, 2012 - 10:25 am:

If you use the "modern seal" and you ever need to replace the timing gear, you will have to remove the whole engine and crankcase in order to get the timing gear cover off! The rope seal is split, and can be removed by taking off the front pulley and sliding the timing gear cover forward enough to clear the camshaft, but the "modern seal" is one piece and you can't slide the cover forward until the crankcase is removed. Now, maybe, the timing gear will last you until you need to pull the engine for other purposes, so before you replace the seals, take all this into account.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Monday, July 09, 2012 - 10:41 am:

Chose the rope seal on my '23, as the crank was too rough surface for the narrow lip of the modern neoprene seal.



Placed the rope seal, fit it snug with a little extra to pinch it down when the crankcase pan was fitted. Figured the wide seal would be best.



Didn't use any sealant like Right Stuff, just did it dry...

So... :-( have some misty spray of oil from that bearing, gets the fan belt a bit messy, but is isn't slipping, keeps the rust off the block though.


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