All...'
Continuing to ask question, as a newbie, on the interior treatment...
Any problems with 'gently' blasting the areas indicated by the arrows in the attached photo, and then painting them with POR 15. I hate the thought of a nice finish on the exterior, while the interior rusts away.
Thanks again..
Michael
Here is the link for the MSDS and application instructions for the POR 15 rust inhibitor. www.por15.com/Data%20Sheets/por15sum.pdf. A superb coating which is not meant to be used as a cosmetic topcoating because the gloss will vary and overtime will fade and breakdown if exposed to the sun's UV rays which can be prevented if this is coated over by a topcoat (See "Application Procedures". Pg 4 of 5).
I see no reason why this would not serve as a good top coat for the interior of your body panels so long as it will not be directly exposed to the UV rays of the sun. Jim Patrick
Would be easier to just clean the inside metal panels and things with scotch brite pad, or scrub with sand paper, then wipe clean with lacquer thinner.
Apply spray coat of flat black paint, rattle can spray bomb of Rustoleum or similar. What the problem I have with sandblasting the inside of a body is the sand stays in the cracks and crannies, over time you find sand on the running boards....
Forgot to mention, the latest spray bomb being used for 'rust' protection on inside areas, is this stuff, Rust Reformer, it bonds with and stops rusting, just get off the big flakes of rust.
I agree with Dan Treace. You can also use a wire brush by hand or a wire wheel on a drill. What I see in the photo is pretty minor surface rust.
Anything that is out of site and covered by upholstery can be painted with Rustoleum primer and Rustoleum gloss black using a high quality natural bristle paint brush. Takes longer than a rattle can but you don't have to worry about masking. You can also paint the pans under the seats with a brush as well as the underside of the body if you wish.
As long as you have good dry storage, I wouldn't worry about the car rusting from the inside out.
It sounds like you have already been sandblasting and yes the inside can be sandblasted also. I know there are a lot of guys here on the forum that use POR, but having worked for the Dept. of the Navy and all of their missiles we used a material that the Navy created that was needed on missiles that were mounted on launchers on the decks of ships that were exposed to the weather. The same material can be found at Napa and Car Quest stores called Rust treatment in a blue can. Once you get the blasting done just clean the area and spray some of that on and the surface and if there is any rust left on the surface the rust treatment will change the chemical makeup of the rust and if there was any rust left it will also change color to dark purple or black. The results is also a primer for paint after it dries which is fast.
I'm trying out the Rust-oleum Rust Reformer. Cost is good if it works well. May try that and some other products (Eastwood, etc.)on some samples to see what works best.
If It were mine I would use compressed air and blow out all the cracks and crannies full of dirt,etc. Then use a wire brush,scraper or any scraping tool to loosen any scaley rust.
Then use air again to blow out the remainder.
Then coat with some of the products mentioned earlier.
For the amount of rust thats shown in the pic the new coat of whatever sealer you use will make things look pretty good.
Rust through? Maybe in about 75 years.
Good luck!
Rust bullet....works better than POR 15 and less surface prep....ck it out.
If I wind up using POR 15, can I use it on the wood as well?...not that the wood is rusty ;-)
If I'm going to use a paint the metal inside, I'd like to use the same one for painting the floor boards that show as well....thus, the reason for my question.
I've heard of people using it on wood, but, I did a wood wheel with POR-15 years ago and the hub and feloe looked good, but, the wood spokes dried looking like alligator skin. Probably something I did or didn't do right, but I've avoided it on wood ever since.
Here are some views of original '27 touring car, note the remnants of Ford factory finish, probably spray coat of black slush paint, may have been shiny when new, but semi-gloss today would be ok.
I say use the POR-15. Buy a quart and have at it. Like everyone else said, knock all the loose stuff off first then apply over it. Like anything else YOU MUST FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS. It irks me to no end when I hear folks whine about POR not lasting for them because they didn't apply it right or left it out in the sun. Stuff that will see UV light you MUST topcoat. What you do is wait for the coat of POR to dry and get tacky then dust it several times with the color paint you want t ensure you will have a bottom layer of paint that is positively adhered to the POR. POR is not paint, it remains flexible so for a T which is a vehicle that flexes quite a bit it is perfect.
Now if I were you I would not simply coat the inside by itself. On my T I prepped the interior panels before reassembling the body and all along the sides and sill areas I coated with POR-15 but while it was still wet I laid a combination of chopped fiberglass and fiberglass roving and built it up two or three layers using POR-15 instead of resin. This stiffens the panels and makes them highly resistant to impact so you wont get dents easily. That original tin isn't as durable as it was when new, years of corrosion (be it surface) and vibration has cause it to become brittle. Adding fiberglass and using POR15 as resin gives you a tough slightly pliable backing.
Here are some pics back when I first started rewooding it. You can see the POR-15 + Fiberglass coating inside the body. I was fitting the wood and sanding and rasping so what you see covering it is a whoooole lot of sawdust.
...and look POR is SUPER for wood. You may need to thin it a little with thinner but definitley coat your wood with it too. It is way better than paint or varnish. Ugly but way better.
All that wood you see above I have already coated top and underside.
Also the top bows too,,,,I detailed it here in a DIY topic I posted a while back for the top bow corners.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/171530.html
By the way, dont buy the 'Metal-Ready' that they sell as a surface prep.
Buy a jar of naval jelly and in an old spray bottle mix 8 tablespoons of jelly and the rest water. That is the very same stuff only waaaaay cheaper. Naval Jelly (Phosphoric acid) will do the very same thing.
I have tried rust bullet and while its not cheap it dries to a very hard finish, it applies thin to get into crevices easily, and has a smell when drying, I had to open the garage bays a bit. The brushes also cant be cleaned w/o something like Naptha so I just tossed my $.50 brush, paint thinner was like water to it. Seems to be good so far.
Some guys on a VW Bus forum (samba) did testing of various products and Rust Bullet did pretty well, as did POR-15 but that also requires more work to apply.